'68-'75 Removeable Hardtop Differences?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 57
'68-'75 Removeable Hardtop Differences?
Could someone please explain the differences, if any, between the removeable hardtops as the model years progressed?
More importantly, are all '68-'75 hardtops interchangeable? For instance, would a '75 hardtop fit both a '69 & '70 convertible (yes, I understand that stock non-hardtop equipped cars may require the decklid to be drilled to accommodate the center stud found on certain hardtops)?
Thanks
More importantly, are all '68-'75 hardtops interchangeable? For instance, would a '75 hardtop fit both a '69 & '70 convertible (yes, I understand that stock non-hardtop equipped cars may require the decklid to be drilled to accommodate the center stud found on certain hardtops)?
Thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 3,600
Likes: 837
From: PA
The 1968-1969 hard tops are relatively the same… There are four attachment points: two at each side (near the front of the soft top cover) that accepts two chrome plated, shouldered bolts and two studs at the rear that pas through the soft top mounting points and secure with a washer and nut at each side. The only difference is that the 1969 hardtops top has a stainless steel “cap” that covers the rear corners on each side; the 1968 does not have these caps.
The 1970-1975 hard tops are similar to 1969 except for the addition of an additional stud that pass through the center rear of the hard top. There is a matching hole (with trim piece) in the rear soft top cover (and a quick way to tell if the 1970-1975 car in question actually came with a hardtop). Of course the stud can be removed for a 1968-1969 car (easiest solution) or the hole and trim added to make the later top work. The rear windows are dated so if you are going that route, you’ll need to deal with that as well.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
The 1970-1975 hard tops are similar to 1969 except for the addition of an additional stud that pass through the center rear of the hard top. There is a matching hole (with trim piece) in the rear soft top cover (and a quick way to tell if the 1970-1975 car in question actually came with a hardtop). Of course the stud can be removed for a 1968-1969 car (easiest solution) or the hole and trim added to make the later top work. The rear windows are dated so if you are going that route, you’ll need to deal with that as well.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 57
The 1968-1969 hard tops are relatively the same… There are four attachment points: two at each side (near the front of the soft top cover) that accepts two chrome plated, shouldered bolts and two studs at the rear that pas through the soft top mounting points and secure with a washer and nut at each side. The only difference is that the 1969 hardtops top has a stainless steel “cap” that covers the rear corners on each side; the 1968 does not have these caps.
The 1970-1975 hard tops are similar to 1969 except for the addition of an additional stud that pass through the center rear of the hard top. There is a matching hole (with trim piece) in the rear soft top cover (and a quick way to tell if the 1970-1975 car in question actually came with a hardtop). Of course the stud can be removed for a 1968-1969 car (easiest solution) or the hole and trim added to make the later top work. The rear windows are dated so if you are going that route, you’ll need to deal with that as well.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
The 1970-1975 hard tops are similar to 1969 except for the addition of an additional stud that pass through the center rear of the hard top. There is a matching hole (with trim piece) in the rear soft top cover (and a quick way to tell if the 1970-1975 car in question actually came with a hardtop). Of course the stud can be removed for a 1968-1969 car (easiest solution) or the hole and trim added to make the later top work. The rear windows are dated so if you are going that route, you’ll need to deal with that as well.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
How critical is having the center stud, with respect to wind noise, etc?
For example, if you had a 70-75 hardtop (with center stud) and wanted to fit it to car whose decklid had never been drilled to accept the center stud, which direction would you go?
1) Remove center stud on hardtop
2) Drill decklid to accept center stud
Thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 3,600
Likes: 837
From: PA
The center stud isn’t critical. It’s more for making certain that the rear weatherstrip seals rather than for structural integrity. Odds are that the top will seal just fine without it.
As I mentioned, it’s really up to you as to how you handle it… Removing the stud would probably be easiest. If you are looking to for a more “correct” solution, then drilling the hole on a 1970-1975 car might be the way to go. The fact is that once the hard top is installed, you’ll need to have to look hard to see if the stud is there or not.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
As I mentioned, it’s really up to you as to how you handle it… Removing the stud would probably be easiest. If you are looking to for a more “correct” solution, then drilling the hole on a 1970-1975 car might be the way to go. The fact is that once the hard top is installed, you’ll need to have to look hard to see if the stud is there or not.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 878
Likes: 55
From: Deep South Denmark
I would definately drill for the center stud
Mine doesn't have it and if the car is left outside in the rain, a lot of water leaks by the seal
There is a reason why they added it on later models
Mine doesn't have it and if the car is left outside in the rain, a lot of water leaks by the seal
There is a reason why they added it on later models
