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Question Regarding Tachometer Removal And Replacement
I own a ‘70 convertible. I need to remove the existing mechanical tachometer and replace it with an electronic tachometer/conversion due to having an EFI.
I would like to hear from those that have replaced their tachometers without removing the steering column. How much of a pain in the @$$ was it?
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
No its not hard at all. Dont touch the numbers on the Tach face as they can smear depending on the condition of the face. I wiped and old face I had that was dusty and ruined it. If y9ou have to clean the face do it carefully with q tips. As for the face the needle pulls off and is push on. This guy in the video pries it off and in the process throws the faceplate....just pull it off by grabbing it around the base and prying your fingers underneath it before you remove the face...
But it is always good to see someone do it before you do.
No its not hard at all. Dont touch the numbers on the Tach face as they can smear depending on the condition of the face. I wiped and old face I had that was dusty and ruined it. If y9ou have to clean the face do it carefully with q tips. As for the face the needle pulls off and is push on. This guy in the video pries it off and in the process throws the faceplate....just pull it off by grabbing it around the base and prying your fingers underneath it before you remove the face...
But it is always good to see someone do it before you do.
Thanks for the comments and link. I have watched a few of his videos before but had not seen that one until now. The process looks about like I envisioned it. It looks like an all-day job and several beers.
You comment about cleaning the face of the tach is an excellent warning of what not to do. That is something I was not aware of and may have save me some time and money.
I have a 1968 with 327 and a Holley Sniper EFI. I'm still using the original mechanical drive tach with no issues. The dash tack and Sniper monitor both show the identical rpm's. I'm using an electronic distributor with mechanical tach drive.
Working on my 70, I've removed and reinstalled the steering column several times. It's not a problem. To work on the tach, you don't have to completely remove the column. Remove the two easily accessible bolts that bolt the column to the windshield frame; i.e.. the birdcage. Remove the two bolts at the firewall and allow the column to droop down, giving you room to move the speedo/tach dashpad forward to access the tach housing. Of course, the job's a little easier to remove the driver's seat....4 bolts.
I have an electric tach...it came in a kit from one of the vendors. Basically you'll convert the tach to being similar to the electric tach in the newer C3s. The conversion was pretty easy.
I have a 1968 with 327 and a Holley Sniper EFI. I'm still using the original mechanical drive tach with no issues. The dash tack and Sniper monitor both show the identical rpm's. I'm using an electronic distributor with mechanical tach drive.
I failed to mention, my Vette has a MSD distributor without a mechanical tach drive. I assume the previous owner installed the MSD distributor at the same time he installed the Holley Sniper EFI.
Working on my 70, I've removed and reinstalled the steering column several times. It's not a problem. To work on the tach, you don't have to completely remove the column. Remove the two easily accessible bolts that bolt the column to the windshield frame; i.e.. the birdcage. Remove the two bolts at the firewall and allow the column to droop down, giving you room to move the speedo/tach dashpad forward to access the tach housing. Of course, the job's a little easier to remove the driver's seat....4 bolts.
I have an electric tach...it came in a kit from one of the vendors. Basically you'll convert the tach to being similar to the electric tach in the newer C3s. The conversion was pretty easy.
Thank you for your reply and input. That is a great tip.
bigblock427
It is really easy to remove the steering column..... and it is advisable since it is so easy, and with it out of the way you minimize the chances of damaging the delicate old fiberglass that the dash pads are made of...... I would recommend removing it anyway.
I converted my 68 to an electric tach when I installed EFI and use an MSD distributor with an MSD 6A box ..... one of the best mods I ever made. Good move.
Test the tach before you put the dash back in..... otherwise you're gonna be bummin' if it doesn't work. Since my tach gets the signal from the MSD-6a I removed the tach filter (otherwise it would bounce when above ~3500 rpm. So ensure the tach filter is in an easy accessible location in case you have to delete it.
Originally Posted by bigblock427
I own a ‘70 convertible. I need to remove the existing mechanical tachometer and replace it with an electronic tachometer/conversion due to having an EFI.
I would like to hear from those that have replaced their tachometers without removing the steering column. How much of a pain in the @$$ was it?
Any comments, tips, or warnings are appreciated.
Last edited by carriljc; Jan 14, 2025 at 09:12 PM.
As hard as I have tried, I could not get the tach out. Everything was loose and the steering column down. There was something on the driver side that prevented me from getting it all the way out. Put it back together until I figure it out. Thoughts?
Hrider60
I have probably removed my dash 15 times in 40 years..... only like the last time did I remove the steering column. It is well worth the effort and it really is so dang easy! Really. Just remove it. It makes working easier and will minimize the chances of cracking that delicate old fiberglass.
BIG PICTURE:
1. point your wheels straight ahead.
2. Mark the top of the steering wheel.
3. take picture of your coupling in the engine compartment for future reference.
4. I have a convertible so I used a rope to hold up the steering wheel while I removed the mounting bolts and coupling.
5. Pull it out.
IF you have time, and you are willing to make wiring mods then I would solder on disconnect plugs for each side, the tach side, and the speedo side...... lengthen the wires, solder and heat shrink everything...... That makes everything a lot easier....when reinstalling this let's you plug in your wiring with the lengthened leads and the it allows to gently position everything back in place..... then tuck in your lengthened leads.