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Ok so I have a new random crack that came up in my windshield on a 79’. Sucks because it’s a new windshield. A local major windshield service sent me a quote for $200. Very surprised. Is there any way they can get this right given the metal trim and clips, etc? Does anyone have experience or advice on this? Andy
Well, you did better on a quote than I did. Mine was around $230 several yrs ago, from Safelite.
Former posts on this forum have revealed that the newer glass is a little thinner than original. And that can make fitment with molding a challenge.
Knowing that, I stopped at my local Safelite office and had a chat about the job. I told them that I was not in a big hurry.
I think that makes a difference when they are not pressured to get the customers car out of their shop.
In fact, they were willing to come out to my residence and install, same price. I was impressed.
The first tech guy arrived, said the surface rust found on the "A" pillar would void any warranty claims. (he drove 105 miles to my garage too)
So, I had to reschedule a new glass install date, after some wire brushing and rustproofing.
Turned out wonderful. No leaks, proper fitment.
Was the crack caused by rock chip, installation problem, edge chip, or rust growing from below? A picture may help to find the answer. You’ll want to know so you’ll be prepared for the new install.
I think if you consider all of the work involved in removing and replacing a windshield I think $200 is pretty fair. If they know what they are doing there shouldn't be an issue with the trim either. They are most likely using the polyurethane caulk. When mine was done, they used the caulk, then installed the trim before the caulk set up so they had some time to fit it correctly. It came out fine.
I tend to agree that $200 is pretty good for the amount of work required to do it yourself. As mentioned by @HeadU.P., new glass tends to be thinner than original so requires careful placement. We did the windshield on our 69 recently and it involved several test fits and measuring to make sure that when the trim went on it would not leave a gap between it and the trim. In fact we had to stack two different thicknesses of damming foam to correctly set the height. If you do give it to a professional to do it might be sensible to point these things out to them. They may already know this if they do old cars but it alerts them to the fact that you know too so won't accept a substandard job!
Question Alex 67-327: Did you put the urethane on the glass beside the dam tape and have a helper set the w/s? (“ European” method) Or did you run the urethane on the pinchweld and try not to knock it around with the tape? It’s especially difficult around the VIN tag either way.
I’ve convinced myself that 3/8” diameter (round) tape on the glass and a helper to set is the straightest sight line and easiest method for setting. All methods have their challenges.
I've replaced the windscreen twice on my 78. First time I put 10mm (3/8") damming tape on the glass with the urethane around the outside. Second time I put the damming tape on the frame again with the urethane around the outside. Both times I had a helper to line it up and both times I didn't put damming tape along the top of of the screen, there just wasn't room and the tape down the A pillars spaced the screen off of the frame properly anyway. I found the second method to be much easier to align the screen without knocking the urethane off.
Question Alex 67-327: Did you put the urethane on the glass beside the dam tape and have a helper set the w/s? (“ European” method) Or did you run the urethane on the pinchweld and try not to knock it around with the tape? It’s especially difficult around the VIN tag either way.
I’ve convinced myself that 3/8” diameter (round) tape on the glass and a helper to set is the straightest sight line and easiest method for setting. All methods have their challenges.
Steve O.
For a stress-free (or maybe just less), I would recommend a second person. We could not get 10 mm damming tape so used 3mm stacked on 6mm, so I think your 10mm (3/8) is probably spot on. I would test it with a mock installation. The urethane was placed on the outside edge of the damming tape and it was tight in some places. I am sure there is more than one way to skin this cat. We based our install on these YouTube videos (<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxVAu3StodI> and <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6DO-PahL_U>).
The advantage of placing the urethane on the frame means it ends exactly where you want it to on the frame. It also means you're not handling glass with sticky stuff just waiting to end up on your hands and everywhere else. The only issue I see is if the damming tape is misaligned and ends up sitting directly on the urethane.
The other advantage of putting the urethane on the glass next to the damming tape is that you can gauge how much urethane to add.
Clearly both methods work
Last edited by Alex_67-327; Mar 16, 2025 at 07:36 PM.
Reason: Additional information
Windshield replacement question
