Interior insulation layers + new carpet install
I removed the old carpet from my 77 which smelled bad and had holes in it.
I noticed the following things:
- The RH floor (foot space) is very humid/wet. How can I know if it’s water and not something else? It doesn’t have a smell. I don’t know if it’s water or WD40.
I sprayed the bolts from the body mounts a lot during the last half year to get the bolt prepped when I replace them together with the old and very damaged bodymounts.
- Do I have remove the thick insulation stuff that was sprayed on the floor (rear and front)? It looks a lot like the stuff in the wheel wells. Or should I leave this in place?
- I will remove the old smelly insulation and replace it. (It seems there ones was a mouse inside). Here are the layers I want to apply to the floor:
1. Two layers of Por15 on exposed steel parts (brush).
2. One layer of Raptor liner (paint roller).
3. One layer of Dynamat or Fatmat
4. One layer of reflectix heat insulation (some daps of contact glue)
5. Extra noise insulation in the trunk area + under & behind the seats (original style material but brand new).
6. New carpet.
Questions:
A) Would this combination of layers work?
B) Dynamat or fatmat?
C) What about the wet floor? Test with a cup of water and see if the window T-top leaks?
D) What about door insulation?
Old carpet with holes and a smell.
What is this in the back? (on the floor)
With floor to the right.
Last edited by Novusuhu; Jun 5, 2025 at 07:09 AM.
If you want the Raptor liner and/or Dynamat/Fatmat to adhere to the floorboards, you're going to need to remove all of the old insulation and clean the floor first. That would also be a good time to check/replace any seam sealer along the floor joints.
Lots of threads on folks successfully using Dynamat/Fatmat/ etc... combined with reflectix for both noise and heat reduction while keeping an eye on the overall thickness. I went in a different direction with it and used Lizardskin.
A) Would this combination of layers work? Yes...anything is better than the original. Remove ALL the jut backing from the floor. The Rflectix will actually keep moisture off the floorboard.
ALSO...YOU MAY WANT TO REMOVE ANY BACKING FROM THE NEW CARPET BECAUSE IT WILL BE TOO BULKY WITH ALL THE GOOD STUFF YOU ARE ADDING. (tRY INSTALLING ONE SECTION OF CARPET TO SEE WHAT I MEAN)
ALSO...add Reflectix to every surface inside the carfirewall/under dash/inside compartments/doors/underside of deck lid inner quarter panels/
etc....see my thread for pics
B) Dynamat or fatmat? Whichever provides the best noise reduction.
C) What about the wet floor? Test with a cup of water and see if the window T-top leaks? Pressure wash outside keeping the wand about 3-4 feet from the car to simulate rain at highway speeds.
D) What about door insulation? Definetly do the above steps to the inner doors also!
On my 71 C3 project with headers I added from DEI fiber glass/foil insulation on the bottom side of the car above the headers.
Pic of my 68 C10 before carpet.
I just removed all the oem sound deadening material sprayed in at the factory from my 73.
It was several days of scraping and I’m now sanding.
In some areas it was really thick and others very thin so be careful.
It was hardest to remove it from any areas that are actually metal.
I was advised to leave the fiberglass floor in its natural state, clean the residue with some acetone then apply the new mat directly to the fiberglass for the best results.
I’m using CoolIt mat, Jute then the carpet.
If you haven’t purchased your carpet yet, Al Knoch Interiors offers it with the Jute or you can purchase the carpet and Jute separately so you can lay the carpet in some areas without the Jute underneath especially the areas under and around the pedals and console pieces.





















