I have a 1970 Corvette 350 Muncie transmission and I cannot get it into reverse. I have already rebuild the transmission as far as I know all my linkages are correct I was wondering about the rod that goes into the shifter. The rod it goes into the shifter with the spring when I remove the rod I can go in reverse, but when I have the rod there I can't get in reverse. This is a matching number 70 so I wanted to keep things original. My question is why is the ride keeping me from going in to reverse?

 

Did you put the spring in first or last? Should go in last.
https://assets.aaadirect.com/eyJidWN...ExMDU3MzIifQ==

 

I was trying to find find a diagram, i put my spring in first. Thank you I'll check that

 

Does this shift rod also need 2 bushings? And do they go down into the shaft after the spring? Also, I see two different types of bushings one has a flange the other is just a straight bushing.

 

I have a T-10 shifter, and I don't see any bushings in it. The schematic in the link is a mid-year. The link below has a better picture. Looks like they are the same up to 76'
https://www.chicagocorvette.net/diag...?d=2205&rc=144

 

That picture in the link it has 2 bushings?

 

Looks like it. Does yours have bushings?
Maybe someone with your year shifter will chime in.

 

The rod goes right through the middle of the spring? Maybe I need something on top of the spring or different spring?

 

The purpose of the rod is to keep the shifter from going into reverse. For some reason when you lift the "T" handle, I assume the rod's not coming up enough to allow the shifter to go into reverse.

My first question would be was this a running driving car before you rebuilt the transmission? If so did the shifter previously go into reverse without issue?

Did you rebuild the shifter, and if so does it have the correct reverse lock out rod in it? The 77-81 shifter is taller and uses a longer rod, if you got a 77-81 shifter rebuild kit or even just the 77-81 rod, it would be too long to allow the shifter too go into reverse.

The 77-81 shifter uses a different length spring too, though off the top of my head I don't know what the length's of the two springs are, or how much of a difference the length would make. I'd have to measure them to be sure of the length, I don't have their lengths noted in my system here. .

The bushings with the flange are for the automatic shifter, the simple split ones without the flange are for the 4 speed shifter. The bushings shouldn't effect shifting into reverse, I think their only purpose is to prevent the "T" handle from rattling. I'd bet that maybe half the shifters out there in cars are missing the bushings.

I'm working from memory here, but if I'm correct the proper assembly order is the bushings go inside the "T" handle, the rod and "T" handle go in the shifter, the reverse spring goes in the top of the "T" handle and the shifter ball screws on.

 

The spring must go in last, on top of the t-handle.

 

Here is what it should look like.

 

You dropped the spring down the handle, remove it

 

If you are still having trouble with reverse, pull the t handle out and look at the bottom long shaft that goes into the lock out that keeps you from going into reverse (unless you pull up the t handle). The bottom pin was loose and I tried to tighten it, but it’s held in by crimped pot metal and didn’t tighten that well. I bought a new one (t handle) and saved the old one just to have a spare.

 

Thank you that really helps

 

When I got the car it would start by putting gas in the carburetor. Its a numbers matching car with only 57,000 miles, convertible with a hardtop .I never drove it. I just pulled into my building and disassembled it and did a frame off restoration. The Information helps about the bushings. I saw there are two kinds of bushings and rod Assembly . one bushing has a flange on it. Don't know which one to use. Sorry I couldn't get back sooner. I have to take care of my sick wife.

 

Thank you that really helps

 

Thank you that helps