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My dad was a lifelong Corvette enthusiast, and unfortunately he passed about a year ago. The cars had been sitting for quite a while before that, and my mom has been encouraging me to get them running again so the family can enjoy them.
I decided to start with the 1969 convertible, small block, automatic.
Immediate issues I found:
Hard starting / ran rough
Transmission fluid leak (pretty bad)
Parasitic draw
I managed to limp it to my place and started with the carb. It had a Holley 4175, obviously not original, I rebuilt it. Now it fires right up and idles nice and smooth. Big improvement.
Next up: transmission leak. After cleaning everything up and waiting a few days I’m fairly confident it’s coming from the vacuum modulator or possibly the O-ring.
Since I already ordered a new gasket for the pan i decided I should replace that as well.
When I pulled the pan, I noticed something odd two of the bolts are noticeably smaller. Some of the hardware also looks like it’s been replaced at some point.
My question:
Do those smaller bolts belong in a specific location, or were they just replaced with whatever was handy? If they’re incorrect, should I replace them all with the proper size?
My dad was a lifelong Corvette enthusiast, and unfortunately he passed about a year ago. The cars had been sitting for quite a while before that, and my mom has been encouraging me to get them running again so the family can enjoy them.
I decided to start with the 1969 convertible, small block, automatic.
Immediate issues I found:
Hard starting / ran rough
Transmission fluid leak (pretty bad)
Parasitic draw
I managed to limp it to my place and started with the carb. It had a Holley 4175, obviously not original, I rebuilt it. Now it fires right up and idles nice and smooth. Big improvement.
Next up: transmission leak. After cleaning everything up and waiting a few days I’m fairly confident it’s coming from the vacuum modulator or possibly the O-ring.
Since I already ordered a new gasket for the pan i decided I should replace that as well.
When I pulled the pan, I noticed something odd two of the bolts are noticeably smaller. Some of the hardware also looks like it’s been replaced at some point.
My question:
Do those smaller bolts belong in a specific location, or were they just replaced with whatever was handy? If they’re incorrect, should I replace them all with the proper size?
while i'm not certain, i believe it is a TH 350 transmission which was pretty much the standard automatic on the non higher performance SB cars throughout the C3 run into the 70's
while i'm not certain, i believe it is a TH 350 transmission which was pretty much the standard automatic on the non higher performance SB cars throughout the C3 run into the 70's
1969 used the TH400, starting in 78 TH350 and TH350C in 81
while i'm not certain, i believe it is a TH 350 transmission which was pretty much the standard automatic on the non higher performance SB cars throughout the C3 run into the 70's
As a suggestion, I would replace the vacuum module.
I had one fail on me and the engine started sucking transmission fluid into the intake.
The engine smoked like crazy and pulled about a quart of transmission fluid out before I could get home.
Back then it was a $10.00 part and only took ten minutes to replace.
As a suggestion, I would replace the vacuum module.
I had one fail on me and the engine started sucking transmission fluid into the intake.
The engine smoked like crazy and pulled about a quart of transmission fluid out before I could get home.
Back then it was a $10.00 part and only took ten minutes to replace.
Check to make sure the light in the center storage compartment is turning off when the door is closed. They’re notorious for staying on. You can remove the cardboard insert on the passenger side one to see the bulb with the door closed.
I drove around quite a bit this weekend and the list of repairs is growing but I am having fun.
So now my Parasitic draw or maybe not?
Right now its 28.3 mA ... seems acceptable?
If I remove the clk ltr/ ctsy fuse it will drop to 8ish mA.
I am pretty sure all the courtesy lights are out and the draw does not change if the door is open or closed.
What do you guys think?
On a modern car with computer systems the limit is 50 mA so you are below that. In addition to the clock fuse unplug the double wire connector on the alternator to see if it drops to zero.
Check to make sure the light in the center storage compartment is turning off when the door is closed. They’re notorious for staying on. You can remove the cardboard insert on the passenger side one to see the bulb with the door closed.
It's a convertible, does it still have this light?
I don't think any of the lights turn on when the doors open, and again, interestingly enough, the mA do not change when the doors open or close just when I pulled the fuse
On a modern car with computer systems, the limit is 50 mA so you are below that. In addition to the clock fuse unplug the double wire connector on the alternator to see if it drops to zero.
Which fuse is the clock fuse? I don't know if it matters, but the clock does not work. I pulled all the fuses except that tiny one (inst. Lps). There were a few that dropped a couple mA, but not as significant as the (clk ltr ctsy) fuse.
I have 3 double wire connectors, which I had to pull just so I could get to the fuses, and I did not notice any drop.
1969 Corvette
