When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Starting this in general. If it belongs in technical let me know. Have had 3 or 4 instances where I am making a right hand turn as I mash the gas pretty hard. It gets to feeling almost like the steering wheel is locked and I am trying to hold it so it doesn't snap in either direction. Only lasts for a second or so. Car is not stock. Has 383 stroker with electric vacuum pump and power steering. Is this just a case of the vacuum not keeping up and I am manually steering without power assist maybe?
Vacuum and steering aren't connected in any way for a factory system. Do you have aftermarket power steering?
Have you centered the power steering ram to the neutral position?
Or, it sounds to me like maybe your left tire is rolling over to the sidewall and resisting re-centering. What PSI do you have in the front?
Can you post photos of the front top A-arms showing the alignment shims for each side?
Last edited by barkingrats; Oct 5, 2025 at 01:03 PM.
Vacuum and steering aren't connected in any way for a factory system. Do you have aftermarket power steering?
Have you centered the power steering ram to the neutral position?
Or, it sounds to me like maybe your left tire is rolling over to the sidewall and resisting re-centering. What PSI do you have in the front?
Can you post photos of the front top A-arms showing the alignment shims for each side?
You are correct on no vacuum connection. Car was restored 10 years ago (I've had it about 2 months) and I misread the mechanics handwriting from the restoration work (guy should have been a doctor with that penmanship: ) Anyway, running 30psi (cold) in Eagle Gt IIs all four corners. I'll try for photos of a-arms when I can get the car a little higher off the ground. Getting too old to shimmey underneath on asphalt or dirty garage floor.
You are correct on no vacuum connection. Car was restored 10 years ago (I've had it about 2 months) and I misread the mechanics handwriting from the restoration work (guy should have been a doctor with that penmanship: ) Anyway, running 30psi (cold) in Eagle Gt IIs all four corners. I'll try for photos of a-arms when I can get the car a little higher off the ground. Getting too old to shimmey underneath on asphalt or dirty garage floor.
No need to get underneath, I'm thinking photos of the upper a-arms from the top of the engine compartment will show shims to give a clue as to caster adjustment.
Something like this:
No need to get underneath, I'm thinking photos of the upper a-arms from the top of the engine compartment will show shims to give a clue as to caster adjustment.
Something like this:
I was looking to compare the alignment shims front and back (yellow arrows). Having a thicker set of shims to the rear indicates there is at least some caster angle in there. Caster determines the self-centering qualities after a turn. Is the passenger side similar with thicker set to the rear vs the front?
The white arrow points to one of the a-arm bushings - both the top and bottom a-arms have two bushings. This one looks like the rubber is pretty cracked. If you poke it with an awl or screw driver, does it easily chip out and crumble - or is it firm but cracked? Are the end bolts into these bushings tight?
I was looking to compare the alignment shims front and back (yellow arrows). Having a thicker set of shims to the rear indicates there is at least some caster angle in there. Caster determines the self-centering qualities after a turn. Is the passenger side similar with thicker set to the rear vs the front?
The white arrow points to one of the a-arm bushings - both the top and bottom a-arms have two bushings. This one looks like the rubber is pretty cracked. If you poke it with an awl or screw driver, does it easily chip out and crumble - or is it firm but cracked? Are the end bolts into these bushings tight?
Both sides are shimmed thicker at the rear. As for bushings, no flaking or crumbling when poked at. All felt firm, just the obvious cracking as noted
Your passenger side looks to have quite a bit more shim thickness than the driver's - that's not definitive of the caster measurements but I kinda doubt they are similar measures, which they should be.
An alignment check shouldn't be expensive, you're just looking to see what angles each wheel is set at. Ask for an evaluation of the tie rods, ball joints, and a-arm bushings on the front, and trailing arm and strut rod bushings on the rear. Getting all of this will give you a base of knowledge to maybe identify what's going on. Since it only happens when you turn to the right, I'm not that sure it's an alignment issue, but it would be good to have it checked anyway.
Can you explain with a little more detail what it feels like when it misbehaves and how you get it to recover? Does it happen above a certain speed or on the same road curve?
Your passenger side looks to have quite a bit more shim thickness than the driver's - that's not definitive of the caster measurements but I kinda doubt they are similar measures, which they should be.
An alignment check shouldn't be expensive, you're just looking to see what angles each wheel is set at. Ask for an evaluation of the tie rods, ball joints, and a-arm bushings on the front, and trailing arm and strut rod bushings on the rear. Getting all of this will give you a base of knowledge to maybe identify what's going on. Since it only happens when you turn to the right, I'm not that sure it's an alignment issue, but it would be good to have it checked anyway.
Can you explain with a little more detail what it feels like when it misbehaves and how you get it to recover? Does it happen above a certain speed or on the same road curve?
Already scheduled to take it in forsome other work in Monday. I'll add this to the list. Season is about over anyway.
In terms of what it feels like, it is almost like i am hitting travel li.its. Occurs on sweeping turns like access to the highway or intersections that aren't 90degrees (common in new england) with a right turn lane merging into traffic. As I am accelerating, the steering wheel just stops. Still stay in lane all the way thru the turn, but takes me closer to center line than I like. As soon as I start to relieve pressure coming out of the turn, everything goes back to normal.
You are correct on no vacuum connection. Car was restored 10 years ago (I've had it about 2 months) and I misread the mechanics handwriting from the restoration work (guy should have been a doctor with that penmanship: ) Anyway, running 30psi (cold) in Eagle Gt IIs all four corners. I'll try for photos of a-arms when I can get the car a little higher off the ground. Getting too old to shimmey underneath on asphalt or dirty garage floor.
It may not have anything to do with your steering issues, but I would be replacing those Eagle GT II's ASAP. Goodyear discontinued the GT II's 14 or 15 years ago, meaning those tires are well beyond their safe age range to be driving on.
It may not have anything to do with your steering issues, but I would be replacing those Eagle GT II's ASAP. Goodyear discontinued the GT II's 14 or 15 years ago, meaning those tires are well beyond their safe age range to be driving on.
Goodyear still sells an Eagle GT II, but if you check the sizes available I think it only comes in two, both for 20" diameter rims. I'm assuming the OP has a set of 15" Eagle GT II's, likely the P255/60R15 that was the optional tire in 1980. The 255/60 was discontinued by Goodyear around 2010/2011 I think.
By the way, is the belt off of the power steering pump in the picture you posted in post number 4 above???
Goodyear still sells an Eagle GT II, but if you check the sizes available I think it only comes in two, both for 20" diameter rims. I'm assuming the OP has a set of 15" Eagle GT II's, likely the P255/60R15 that was the optional tire in 1980. The 255/60 was discontinued by Goodyear around 2010/2011 I think.
By the way, is the belt off of the power steering pump in the picture you posted in post number 4 above???
Belt is firmly in place with good tension on the PS pump. The picture obviousl doesn't show it clearly. As for the tires themselves, they were done with the restoration 10 years ago. So ys, probably dated and on the list of off-season work to ne done. Mechanic of 20+ years noted age but no signs of treadwear, dry rot, or any cracking was found last month during inspection so I'll take my chances on them for the next couple weeks.
Belt is firmly in place with good tension on the PS pump.
I wasn't questioning the belt on your pump, but instead I was questioning the belt on the pump in the picture below that Barkingrats posted. That belt sure doesn't appear to be on the pulley.
Originally Posted by barkingrats
As for the tires themselves, they were done with the restoration 10 years ago. So ys, probably dated and on the list of off-season work to ne done.
Chances are they're older than 10 years old because the Eagle GT II's were discontinued around 2010.
Goodyear still sells an Eagle GT II, but if you check the sizes available I think it only comes in two, both for 20" diameter rims. I'm assuming the OP has a set of 15" Eagle GT II's, likely the P255/60R15 that was the optional tire in 1980. The 255/60 was discontinued by Goodyear around 2010/2011 I think.
By the way, is the belt off of the power steering pump in the picture you posted in post number 4 above???
Good investigating on offered tire sizes.
The pic in #4 is just something I found on the 'net, not my car.
Okay, full accountability here. Just color me stupid. Had lots of valuable input regarding my steering anomaly and I learned some more about my vehicle. I checked bushings, shims, bolts and belts. Finally it dawned me to check the power steering fluid level. Guess what I found. Had neglected the most obvious first item on the checklist. Thanks to all who made meaningful insights though.
Okay, full accountability here. Just color me stupid. Had lots of valuable input regarding my steering anomaly and I learned some more about my vehicle. I checked bushings, shims, bolts and belts. Finally it dawned me to check the power steering fluid level. Guess what I found. Had neglected the most obvious first item on the checklist. Thanks to all who made meaningful insights though.
THANKS FOR THE UPDATE: You ended up with an Informative thread!
On a positive note...the reservoir needed draining/refilling anyway!
You can be President of the "Corvette Color Me Stupid" Forum...
THANKS FOR THE UPDATE: You ended up with an Informative thread!
On a positive note...the reservoir needed draining/refilling anyway!
You can be President of the "Corvette Color Me Stupid" Forum...
but I wanna' be V.P.
And I have another leak to track down during the winter so I won't be bored.
if I am president, will accept applications and nominations to fill out my cabinet positions.