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You can rotate it clockwise or counterclockwise a couple degrees as you pull directly back.
Take off the timing gear. And in place of its three bolts, screw in bolts that are about 4” or longer. Those bolts will help you balance the cam over the bearings as you pull it out by pushing down on the long bolts. It will help to keep the cam square with the bores.
Once the cam is almost out, it may hit the two metal rods that cross in front of the radiator. I had to cut them to clear the cam out the front of the car.
Or you can set the block on its rear with the front facing the ceiling if you pull the engine. That way gravity will help keep the cam square with the bores.
Indeed you DO NOT want to scratch the bearings.
you need to rotate while gently pulling outward. Then it will clear one set of bearings and stop at the next set. Again, rotate while holding the cam perfectly level and straight. And then it will clear the next set of bearings. Continue until it's out. About 5 sets I believe.
Very, very carefully. Level and straight. Never forcing it.
The cam lobes like to catch on the bearings. If you let it rest downward, or on any angle. The lobes will catch the bearings.
Patients is the key. Not force.
Re reading your post. I have never tried this with the sprocket on. As Jon said. Use some long bolts as a handle.
I remove the radiator and push the air-con condenser forward.
The pump itself is on the outside yes, but the fuel pump pushrod goes up and touches a lobe on the front of the cam. It’s impossible to get the cam out with the pushrod installed.
Do you have an AC condenser in place? When I did the cam in my car I had to unbolt it and gently rotate it out of the way to get the last cam bearing out of the block.
The camshaft has a lobe for the fuel pump push rod.
Hope you made a template pattern for you lifters so they return to their original location, that is if your not changing cam & lifters.
The camshaft has a lobe for the fuel pump.
Hope you made a template pattern for you lifters so the return to their original location, that is if your not changing cam & lifters.
I put numbered everything. All lifters, rods and rockers.
The pump itself is on the outside yes, but the fuel pump pushrod goes up and touches a lobe on the front of the cam. It’s impossible to get the cam out with the pushrod installed.
Do you have an AC condenser in place? When I did the cam in my car I had to unbolt it and gently rotate it out of the way to get the last cam bearing out of the block.
Radiator and hoses are out.
AC was deleted before that.
That’s your fuel pump retaining plate. You don’t need to remove it since I can see your pushrod has dropped down, but you can if you’d like. It will make reinstalling the fuel pump and pushrod easier.
Here in an article that talks about replacing the fuel pump. It has a lot of good information about the methods for reinstalling the pushrod.
I can’t get the camshaft out.
I carefully pulled, holding the sprocket with my rwi hand.
Don’t want to break something. Am I doing something wrond?
Do I have to add extra lube?
Do I have turn the cam a certain way?
I don’t want to scratch the bearings.
If you have yet to do so, suggest you both acquire & study a basic, illustrated "how to rebuild sbc" book.
Once Again, *** You should have begun this work by removing engine And temporarily mounting it to an engine stand.
Any heavy-duty, professional block cleaning WILL almost certainly destroy cam bearing inserts.
Seems you've never performed sbc cam R&R; and already having difficulty doing so.
If that's true, you'll probably gouge-scar (worse than scratch) at least one (or more) cam bearing inserts.
JME: That special "cam-handle" tool is a waste of good money for an occasional or one-and-done user.
Instead, two or three long bolts (same thread pitch as the cam sprocket bolts, but about 4" to 6" longer), works just as well.
Last edited by Rebelyell; Nov 14, 2025 at 11:17 AM.
If you have yet to do so, suggest you both acquire & study a basic, illustrated "how to rebuild sbc" book.
Once Again, *** You should have begun this work by removing engine And temporarily mounting it to an engine stand.
Any heavy-duty, professional block cleaning WILL almost certainly destroy cam bearing inserts.
Seems you've never performed sbc cam R&R; and already having difficulty doing so.
If that's true, you'll probably gouge-scar (worse than scratch) at least one (or more) cam bearing inserts.
JME: That special "cam-handle" tool is a waste of good money for an occasional or one-and-done user.
Instead, two or three long bolts (same thread pitch as the cam sprocket bolts, but about 4" to 6" longer), works just as well.
I ordered the tool because the price of 3 bolts of 5/16-18 about 2 or 3 inches long would be 20-25 dollar shipping included. Or I can order from China with free shipping and wait 3-4 weeks...
They sell only metric here. I thought: why not buy the right tool and use with the original bolts I have, to get a good grip.
The difference in price would be small for me.
I want to learn. I will order some extra books on the SBC. Any recommendations? I already have one laying around. 'How to rebuild a small block chevy on a budget'. I bought that some years ago when I was in the US.
I ordered the tool because the price of 3 bolts of 5/16-18 about 2 or 3 inches long would be 20-25 dollar shipping included. Or I can order from China with free shipping and wait 3-4 weeks...
They sell only metric here. I thought: why not buy the right tool and use with the original bolts I have, to get a good grip.
The difference in price would be small for me.
I want to learn. I will order some extra books on the SBC. Any recommendations? I already have one laying around. 'How to rebuild a small block chevy on a budget'. I bought that some years ago when I was in the US.
Dunno exactly which book(s) You have. But, have you Studied, really Studied, the sbc book(s) you do have ?
And, I don't possess Belgian Economics/ Tariffs Logic. Maybe You could've bought You some bolts while You were visiting The States, ehh ?
Seems You've had this corvette piece for nearly ten years, ehh ?
David Vizard has authored several different titles about sbc. One is about Performance building sbc on a Budget. That's probably a good book, but I haven't read it.
But, none of em are worth the paper they're printed on, Nor will any provide you a benefit; if you don't study em. Having em is one thing; KNOWING em's quite another.
The one I've recommend for You, should be on Your workbench and within reach during entire time You're trying to work on motor.
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Remove OEM camshaft
