Instead of using ballast resistors can I use this coil?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/18446020878...102726.m162918

 

I had to install an external ballast on my 69 because the resistive wire fried on the exhaust manifold and it measures about 2.5 ohms so while running it would probably accomplish the same thing. Something happen to your resistive wire?

But your coil has two wires on it and one supplies the full 12v when starting and I'd think the internal resistor would negate that. How much that matters IDK.

I just stuck one of these on the firewall and it's doing its job.

BorgWarner RU4 - Ballast Resistor

 

Yes 2 wires on positive side one from starter and one from firewall. I have a solid 12v on the original resistor wire and looking for a cleaner way of hiding the resistor and stumbled upon the 3 ohm resistor coil on ebay. Thanks

 

If you go with the internal resistance coil, please post how it went.
tks

 

Hiding what resistor?
You should only have a high resistance wire no actual resistor like was used on older Corvettes.

 

The remaining chunk of resistive wire on my 69 didn't look much different that any other wire. IIRC it was yellow but its been a while. It should read 9.5 - 10VDC if there is getting full battery voltage when the key is in RUN then it isn't a resistive wire. I suppose over many years someone could have made a splice not understanding what it was. I just looked up the appropriate ballast for a '67 and that's what I've been using for years now trouble free.

I don't use the chrome doghouse and don't know if this would fit under it or not but another option is to use something like this:

Chevy Corvette V8 Pro Series Ready to Run Female Distributor with Mechanical Tach Drive - Black

I am working on a top end upgrade and will just eliminate the ballast when I drop it in. I haven't confirmed yet if this is the correct replacement module (but think it is) but will keep a spare in my 'oh ****' bag.

Ready to Run Distributor Ignition Control Module

 

I personally wouldn't do it, but it's your car and your call. My "objections" are below.
1) It's made in China. Make sure have a spare with you.
2) The three ohm rating means all the system wattage during dwell occurs in the coil. More wattage/heat means reduced durability/reliability.
3) The stock configuration (separate ballast and coil) divides the wattage between the two components, meaning the coil runs cooler.
4) The starter solenoid shunt circuit wiring is there to enable reliable starts when the battery voltage is low. You lose that handy function if you can't somehow shunt out part of the system/coil resistance.

Your call though.

 

very good quality, proper resistance coil for points ign '72
Standard Ignition brand "Blue Streak" P/N UC-12X repeat UC-12X

*caution: NOT UC-12, NOT UC-12T

 

Rookie advice below:
A previous owner spliced a new section of wire to the resistor wire on my '68 model.
Then he installed an HEI distributor.
The spliced wire fried two HEI coils in 5 years because it was the original wire from the fuse block to the firewall...then the new wire was spliced in at the firewall and connected at the HEI distributor...causing too much resistance at the HEI coil.
The spark at the spark plug tip always had a RED COLOR to it about 1/8" long making a weak spark with much cranking to get the engine running, the engine ran but was sluggish.

I removed the HEI distributor and installed a correct points distributor with a set of marine grade points and a new 12Volt Mallory Coil.
Then I removed the spliced resistor wire from the fuse block and installed a new 12 ga. wire from the fuse block to the new 12V rated coil.
The new set-up produced a BLUE SPARK about an inch long. The engine now starts on the 1st revolution of the flywheel and revs instantly when the gas pedal is tapped to 1/2 throttle.

SO..make sure the new coil has the correct number of ohms for the wire you are running from the firewall or it won't last a year.
AND make sure the wire from the fuse block to the new coil supplies 12.0-13.5 volts IF YOU BUY AN UPGRADED 12Volt COIL.
LIKE THE MEMBERS SAID...Make sure the original coil wire is not spliced.