Hello!

I recently got my dad’s 1968 corvette out of storage and brought to my garage to start restoring.
It has been garaged for the last 50 years since approx 1976 and the goal is to just get it running so he can enjoy it again.

Problem is, I’m a beginner at this and am not entirely sure where to start. I’ve been using YouTube and AI so far for some guidance, but realized a place like this might be the best for seeking guidance on next steps and where to start. Any help with this is greatly appreciated!!

Below are some photos of it!

 

Welcome to the forum! Nice ‘68.

Youtube has a lot of good information and tutorials, but I would definitely be averting from having computer algorithms tell you how to work on a 58 year old car. They’re not exactly reliable. Not yet at least.



It looks like there’s quite a few parts in that garage, which is good because a lot of 1968 parts are one year only. They never came with 396 big blocks, only 427s. I would start by making sure it can turn over by hand. Do you have a carburetor to put on it? I see what looks like a tri power setup in a box, but the intake is for a single 4 barrel.

Any C3 that sits for long periods of time will run into issues with leaking calipers. Since it’s been since 1976 there’s a chance they’re even the original cast iron bore and lip seal units. The whole braking system will undoubtedly need to be gone through before driving it. Things like the master cylinder, booster, and soft lines, but when you buy new or rebuild the calipers I would consider going with stainless steel lined ones with the better O ring seal design.

 

Thanks for the response!
That is the Tri power you spotted in the black tote. The original engine it came with was swapped out sometime in the early 70’s for unknown reasons and that’s when he got the 396 put in it. (I believe from an el Camino)

Surprisingly, the car itself only has 23k original miles on it. You wouldn’t be able to tell though with all the work it needs! 😂

At the point, I’m mostly trying to figure out if the engine block is still good, and what parts are missing from it that will need to be purchased. The under carriage also needs some work. Exhaust is cut off in on spot near where the engine meets the transmission. I’ll upload a pic.

but yeah, just planning on trying to figure out what it needs mechanically and start taking off whatever’s no good and slowly get things replaced and in working order.

I definitely trust the forum and YouTube for guidance over AI, but AI (Grok) has been useful with uploading photos and identifying parts and giving me a basic game plan for tackling this project!
Looking forward to the challenge though 😎

 

 

the tach readline reads like a 435 h.p. drop the gas tank for further info

 

Exactly!
Wonder if the tri power is to the car?
Love British Racing green

 

I think if you ask ten people for their thoughts you will get eleven different answers where to start. I would pull the spark plugs and put a little oil in every cylinder ATF fluid or Kroil oil . See if you can turn the engine over by hand several revolutions. Put a battery in spin the engine without the plugs a few times. Preform a compression check on every cylinder let us know what you come up with. With it sitting for so many years plan on going through almost everything before it will be reliable. Good luck with your project. I would suggest tackling one item at a time before starting on the next one.

 

I am soooo jealous! I'd give my left lugnut to have a project like that !

Do what @mike5601 said in post #7. Sound advice. Assuming it spins freely you might want to take a look at the birdcage, search this forum there are endless posts about it.

YouTube is hit or miss. If the video is from a manufacturer they can be helpful - Fel Pro for example, otherwise it's just opinion. Lately I've asked Grok a few things and have been surprised at how useful it can be but it can lead you off a cliff. AI tends to collate opinion and present the result as fact. A GM Service manual would be a good thing to have.

 

Welcome to the forum. I have had my 68 for almost 55 years. sounds like I am from your dad's generation. As outlined above, remove the plugs and spray Kroil or Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and let it sit for a few days and turn the engine over by hand. If the engine is from an El Camino, it is most likely a 396/350. I have the same engine in my Chevelle. The intake manifold is for a Q-Jet carb. I would focus on the setup you have just to get it going. You can always rebuild the 3 Duce set up later. Focus on the brakes. If not sleeved in stainless steel, consider purchasing stainless steel sleeved calipers with O-rings. Focus on rebuilding each sub-assembly as time and money permits. You must purchase an AIM or Assembly Instruction Manual for your car. It is what the factory line staff used to assemble the cars. The 68 was the first run of the C-3 generation and there were many, many changes made during the production run. Good luck with the project and have fun with your dad. Jerry

 

Hey Stonehouse, welcome to the forum! This '68 looks like it has good bones (check the cage) and a good basis for having some fun restoring it.

• Do you still have the original block that was replaced? If so, shoot some pics of the block numbers including the stamp at the front/pass side.
• If you don't still have the original block I'd start by trying to identify what engine the car originally came with. Some clues include the 6500 tach and you can check for other clues - as suggested see if the build sheet is still on top of the tank. If you don't have the block let us know and we'll give you other clues to look for.
• I think you may have an L71 and hopefully you have the block. If it was originally an L71, if it was mine, I'd do my best to put it back as an L71 tri-power car. Lots of fun!!

This forum is a great place to get info and help, wonderful members. Best, Paul

 

first is like was stated, see if its ;locked up. Then drain the oil replace the oil with a High ZDDP oil so you dont ruin the cam if it does start eventually. You need to get it going then stopping then going fast!!

you need to understand how old distributors work with points, rotors, setting gaps and dwell. If you dont it may be easier to buy a good ready to run distributor that just needs power. You will also need a carburetor. If you have the original quadrajet you will want to spend some hard earned cash to get it rebuilt by Lars. You should really look into some videos on bringing a barnfind car back to life. YOu want to makesure the fuel lines are clear and not rusted, the fuel tank is the same. Any old gas will gum up the next carb you try to run on it.
Then engine is the first thiing you want to get right, the interior and suspension can wait. If it wont run then the rest doesnt matter.

 

If you haven’t seen them already there’s a lot of good videos from CorvetteBen on YouTube. He’s brought back a good number of cars that have been sitting for a long time, and has lots of good little tips and tricks for working on C3s in general.

 

Oh and that tripower is worth atleast $2000 as it sits, the manifold runs for $1500 or more and the carbs can bring over $400 each depending on condition....dont get rid of it and dont bother trying to get the car running with it. A single carb will be challenge enough right now.
Do not send it to Holley...they just painted mine, threw some parts on them and sent them back...cost over $1000 for **** work.
As for 68 only parts, there is a bunch....if its listed for sale as 68 only it probably is. If its listed as 68'72. It might work. If its listed as 68-82 they probably dont know what they are talking about. The only thing off the top of my head that is truly 68-82 are the break calipers.
Be wary of any brand new electrical switches or vacuum parts. They are all chinese and absolute crap. There are a few venders that have decent parts. My Lectric Limited headlight switch still works...be wary of corvette central, corvette americ, ecklers....they all for the most part are owned by someone else that sells chinese parts for a bigger profit.

There are a lot of 68 only lists...you should look and see if you can find some.
From front to back off the top of my head
Headlight doors were smaller, headlight trim was metal and smaller with no washer hole, front grills are 68 only but 69s work, same with the trim supports. Turn signsls were a light white with yellow bulb. Only one vacuum relay to open both. Front air deflector between radiator and engine crossmember. Spindles were 67-68, steering box same, steering column same or 68 only. Doors are 68 only, door glass was 68 only, convertible windshild trim at top was 68 only. Hood was 68 only relating to position of hood latches. 68 had a giant wiper actuator can.. some early 69s might.
68 manual trans radiator support on 327s had welded in cross braces across the openning. Both are smaller than 69 supports and radiators. 68 interior gauge trim was smooth, was changed in 69 to reduce glare. Interior door panels were thicker which made it more tight, doors and panels changed in 69. Seat levers were low, moved up to mid back layer, no tilt, tele is an option, super rare. Key switch on the dash, reproduction ignion switches are cast incorrectly, some places sell camaro switches that arent wired correctly...shoulder belts very rare, all cars have the threaded hole but are on the side of the wheel well instead of the top. Rear solo back up lights...theres more but not rotght now

 

WELCOME to "CLUB C3" ..............see if it's listed in the Corvette Registry, if not add her in !!

WWW.C3REGISTRY.COM

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