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Battery has been draining, looking for reason. New battery with good 12v, ground to battery seems ok with 0 resistance to frame, now no power to dash, starter when I turn the key. Ignition switch, key cylinder, other???
Any suggestions from you good people.
There are a number of possibilities. The key cylinder has no electrical connections. What it does is have a rod that connects to the actual ignition switch that is mounted further down on the steering column. If it isn't aligned properly things won't work correctly. There is an alignment pin that goes into the switch to help align it. Once it is aligned the pin is removed and then should be saved in case it is needed in the future. A new switch comes with the pin and the switch in not very expensive.
A lot of things can draw power and it will take you some investigation. There are a number of power draws that do not require the ignition switch to be on. Light switch, Horn relay, alternator are a few possibilities.
I’d start by checking to see if you have power at the BAT terminal on the fuse box. If nothing, I’d try putting in the old battery first and see if you have power.
Checking a fusible link is no different than checking for continuity in a wire. Using the wiring diagrams, you’ll need to identify wire connection points on either side of the link.
All a fusible link is, is a piece of smaller gauge wire in a longer large gauge wire. It is used so that if there is an overload the smaller gauge wire burns out before the longer heavier gauge wire. It would be like a 10ga wire with a short piece of 14 ga wire that basically acts like a fuse. If it goes then use don't have to replace a long piece of wire that burned up in a harness, you would just replace the small piece..
I would start at the horn relay buss bar. Do you have power there? Then if yes move forward, if no back up to the starter solenoid. Power at the starter solenoid?
etc.etc.
69 with electrical gremlins
