Hey Corvette Forum!

I'm planning on checking out a 1979 Corvette for sale in Florida on behalf of a friend. I'm more familiar with late C4s, so I was hoping I could get some guidance.

Here's what I'm looking at: 1979, Blue, L82 badges, Auto, T-Tops, 100k miles, $10,500
The car has been repainted. I've attached some pictures below.

I've heard about checking for rust around the birdcage. Are there any other notable things I should keep an eye out for? Any thoughts or comments? Thanks so much!!

- Magnus

 

Frame, birdcage, look closely under the windshield moulding. Look at the body mounts. The number 4's are right behind the rear wheels and can be seen easily. They are often badly rusted. Condition of A arm bushings, etc.
The car is nearly 50 years old. A lot to look at.
Perhaps find someone more familiar with C3's to come along?

 

$10,500 is a big ask for a car in that color, with a missing door panel, and an automatic transmission.

Rust and paint are the two hardest things to fix on these cars. Everything else is easy, including the interior. Is this someone's dusted-off unfinished project? I wonder what else is hiding. Check the date codes on the tires, too.

Post 107 in this thread has the areas of concern to look out for.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...orvette-6.html

 

If you can get them to agree to remove the sill plates to truly inspect the #2 body mounts that would be ideal. You mention the car has L82 badges, is it actually an L82?

Any pictures of the interior, engine bay, or underneath?

 

I saw that car just the other day driving around the Jacksonville area. I told myself "It's been a long time since I saw a light blue Corvette". It looks good with the collectors edition wheels.

 

It was the third least ordered color for the 1979 Factory color: Light Blue (Code 28), with only 3,203 painted that color. If it's a true L82 model, it will have the number 4 as the fifth digit in the VIN. On the driver-side windshield post, you will see the VIN tag rosebud riveted.

Opening the driver-side door towards the top of the cowl is an aluminum plate with the paint and interior color codes. Look for rust stains right in that area or bubbled paint and rust. Usually it starts by pushing the seam sealer out. Pulling the kick panels peeks inside the surface. The rust is pretty normal, but a lot of powdery-flaky build-up around the rubber mount or the head of the bolt half missing could be a problem. Fixing bird cages is a lot of work.

Look at the rear mounts in front of the rear tires, look at the mounts behind the rear tires. If they look extremely dry or rotted, plan to change them, extremely rusty. Usually you break something, usually southern cars that are garaged and not parked outside on grass or dirt are solid.

You will not know it's a true Southern car unless you spend $20 and run a VIN report. They can usually trace it back to 2006. Prior to that, almost all DMV were paper files. The picture showing the passenger side of the front wheel seems like it's not centered on the fender, slightly pushed back, make sure nothing is bent.

The car is almost fifty, you're going to have leaks. The steering cylinder, rear main seal, if it's the original engine, and the TH350, leak in the pan gasket, Kick down cable, Shift shaft seals leak pretty commonly.

Bring a small mechanic mirror and a flashlight if the AC compressor is mounted and try and see the engine numbers. The suffix code stamped on the machined pad for a 1979 L82 Corvette with an automatic transmission is ZBB. Also, the emissions label-decal. If it's still there on the driver's side next to the power brake booster, the Suffix code for a Fed L82 auto in the left corner of the decal is "CJ." I can go on you will have to research some of it, I live in Lexington SC PM me if you want to face time when looking at the car be happy to help. C3 prices are on the rise, so if its a real L82 clean and the orginal color its could be worth it.