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Overheating 69

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Old Jun 10, 2026 | 07:09 PM
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Default Overheating 69

69 SBC. Had a shop install headers and side pipes. They removed the temp sending unit from the block cause it hit the header and moved it to the intake manifold. Since then the temp gauge runs hot, 230. They used a temp gun and showed me it was running a lot lower so I replaced the temp sensor but no change. I’m assuming they used a standard plug on the block. No water leaks. Thoughts?
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Old Jun 10, 2026 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Monterey69
69 SBC. Had a shop install headers and side pipes. They removed the temp sending unit from the block cause it hit the header and moved it to the intake manifold. Since then the temp gauge runs hot, 230. They used a temp gun and showed me it was running a lot lower so I replaced the temp sensor but no change. I’m assuming they used a standard plug on the block. No water leaks. Thoughts?
What temperature was the gauge reading before the work and what was the temp on the shop's gun?
Did you use anything on the threads as sealant?

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Old Jun 10, 2026 | 09:12 PM
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Perhaps a stupid thought... removing that sensor would clearly drain the coolant to that level, is it possible there is now air trapped ?
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Old Jun 10, 2026 | 10:40 PM
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Sealant on the threads won't hurt a thing. That's a myth.
If they didn't change to a different sender. Then trapped air does sound like a possibility.
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Old Jun 10, 2026 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Sealant on the threads won't hurt a thing. That's a myth.
Doesn't it rely on electrical contact with the negative of the block to have an accurate resistance measurement? What about teflon tape?
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Old Yesterday | 01:34 AM
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Teflon tape or sealant will fill in the low spots. But will definitely be sheared away in the high spots. It's a tapered thread. It's how it works.
Brand new sensors come with sealant pre applied by the factory's.
Remove any temp or oil pressure sensor from any engine. You'll see what I'm talking about.
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Old Yesterday | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Teflon tape or sealant will fill in the low spots. But will definitely be sheared away in the high spots. It's a tapered thread. It's how it works.
Brand new sensors come with sealant pre applied by the factory's.
Remove any temp or oil pressure sensor from any engine. You'll see what I'm talking about.
With a tapered thread, it shouldn't need any sort of sealant, right? Maybe if the OP re-installs it without any sealant (don't know that his has any to start with) he could see if there is any gauge difference.
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Old Today | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by barkingrats
With a tapered thread, it shouldn't need any sort of sealant, right? Maybe if the OP re-installs it without any sealant (don't know that his has any to start with) he could see if there is any gauge difference.
In theory yes, but there can always be small voids that tape or thread sealant will fill. Additionally teflon tape or thread sealant works as a lubricant to allow you to tighten it deeper than you could without it.

I agree, tightening it should give you more than enough metal on metal contact to get good continuity, but it’s easy enough you can try it without as a sanity check.

Last edited by Piersonpie; Today at 12:16 AM.
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Old Today | 04:51 PM
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Some people over do it when applying thread tape or sealant, so when the fitting is snugged and tightened, in theory, there could be no metal to metal contact.
More tape or sealant isn’t a good thing.
It only takes about two wraps around the fastener and anymore is just overkill.
When I add tape, I pull it tight so the threads high points show through the tape.
If you have a concern, remove the fitting and you’ll be able to see if there was metal to metal contact.
Clean it up, add a couple wraps of sealant tape and reinstall it.
Use the correct tape.
White is for water and coolant is not water.

Many people believe the only place a temp gauge should be installed is in the head, not the intake.
Old school temp gauges were installed in the cylinder head but that’s changed to the intakes.
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