Jughead

What type Dino oil should I use to break in my rebuilt BB?

Sorry, wrong forum. :bb


[Modified by Jughead, 8:57 AM 2/17/2004]

LOTAHP

YO Len, you have mail :)

JC6372

Len, Let me know what you find out on this.... :thumbs:

GaryS

The machine shop owner near me recommends straight 30 weight oil. He has rebuilt a 327 for me and a 350 and 454 for other Corvette friends. I have used this for all three break in runs. RIght after the cam is broken in I change the oil and filter, using 10W-30.
Gary

Solid LT1

Let me give you a major TECH TIP if you are breaking in a flat tappet camshaft engine: modern motor oils have had most of the Zinc anti-seize compounds removed from them to protect late model engines with catalytic converters on them. The Zinc clogs the converters like the Tetraethyl Lead in older gasoline did but, takes longer to perform this bad deed. The latest oils have little to no Extreme Pressure additives for flat tappet performance camshafts. Valvoline has released a new line of racing oil that should be avaliable through any NAPA store that will solve your dilemma or run an additive like the GM cam break-in additive. I like 30wt motor oil for a stocker style street motor or a 10-40 to 20-50wt oil for performance engines. The roller cam stuff runs great on synthetic (Syntec or Mobil 1) but, there can be gasket sealing issues on older engines with the synthetic lubes that should be dealt with during the engine rebuild if you intend to run synthetic oils later on (things like the 1 piece silicone oil pan gaskets and high quality valve stem seals.) I have alway had a "pain in my gut" every time I've ever lit-off a big solid lifter Big Block Chevy with stiff valve springs (even when I have taken the inner springs out for break-in.) Be forwarned! your flat tappet cams are being sacrificed for progress at the Government's mandate for cleaner air.