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you can replace the guts with a 100 watt...the kits are chump change
Maybe, maybe not, in fact I dunno about the effectiveness of those kits...never did a A-B test.....
but in fact the larger kissing cousin of the stock alt is a plug in, but has a bit larger diameter, same mounting....comes on late 70's caddy seville with rear window defogger, among others...same mechanically, easy swap, plug in and you got a 108 amp factory rated unit....
I cheated a bit, and bought one from AZ and later on returned the dud...the lower amp unit....dunno if in fact there was a differance in dud pricees or not....
works fine...carries electric cooling fans direct wired, and even a C4 a/c blower fan at idle with lights on...
will the 100 amp alternators work o.k. with 30 year old stock wiring? i've heard some people have problems when they boost up the amps like that. maybe 60 to 100 is o.k. though. what do you think?
since you bust my chops so much, i'll send some back.
you mean 100 amp. Watts = volts x amps
100 x 12v = 1200 watts.
Daaaaaaaaaaah........you da man Turtle...that's what I meant....
When I got my 68 running, I had a severe case of brain deads...ran the dual spals and the electric pump, lights, radio through the stock 42 amp alternator...could not understand why the battery drained while driving..the I saw tha light, and being part NCRS, I did not want to sacrifice my original alternator...you know, numbers....anyway, I went to a local place that does alternators and regulators, explained the situation...guy said 30 bucks for the parts, 20 to install, so for 20 bucks, I let the guy install the guts..guaranteed it would be 105 amps...
Haven't had a problem since....
I'm running a 106 amp from a newer vette. 85 I think. Bolted right up. It's a little bit bigger but fit fine. All the wires and plugs are the same too. And the best part is it was $64 at advance
These guys are in Dallas, TX (local to me) and they sell 135 amp alternators for pretty cheap. They built me a fully chrome 135 amp alternator for $85. All new parts and excellent quality chrome. They sell on eBay all the time. I dropped by their shop and they built mine for me in about 15 minutes.
The Amp meters are calibrated to the Alternator's capacity...larger output will overload the meter's circuitry...not good when that happens..
Sorry man, that's totally incorrect, a STOCK GM amp meter is just a light duty thing in the voltage sense circuit, and feeds into the regulator, it does NOT in fact have anything to do with the main power wiring of the alternator, that's why it has no serious markings on it, essentially it's a waste of time, that's why a voltmeter from a pickup truck is in my vette now....so it will work with any of the original style alternators, regardless of output....now the thing is, the wiring has to be run right off the alternator, for the really high powered fans, and so forth...NOT off the horn/relay/tiepoint.....