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take off the cap when cold,start her up and let her warm up,(have the heat running) when the stat opens the level should drop at the radiator.at that time top her off and put the cap back on
take off the cap when cold,start her up and let her warm up,(have the heat running) when the stat opens the level should drop at the radiator.at that time top her off and put the cap back on
You sure you have an air lock? While somewhat common in cars where the engine is higher than the radiator, it's pretty unusual for a Corvette.
At any rate, where you have a design with the expansion space higher than the highest water point in the engine, all you have to do is remove the radiator (or expansion tank) cap and run the engine to allow unpressurized water circulation. On systems where the highest water level is in the engine, there will be a burp valve to allow bleeding out the air.
But, again, the expansion space for Corvettes will be in the radiator or an expansion tank on the fender which almost always inhibits steam pockets forming in the heads.
take the radiator cap off(while cold) start car with heat on full blast...wait for stat to open,,,causing collant level to drop in radiator----top off and put cap on
Some people have mentioned rolling the right front wheel up onto a curb to make the radiator cap side of the car higher than everything else....it might help.
never seen that before...it looks like it replaces the thermostat neck? is that correct ? what does it do and does it replace the need for an additional radiator cap on the radiator or is this a big block thing? that gets used with expansion tanks?
Jack up the front of the car and start it with rad cap off.let t stat open and add coolant as needed dont add to much untill t stat opens or it will blow it back out.
Ive always tryied to raise the Rt ft of the car so after changing the fluid ,the air will have the highest point to get out.,after filling and no more bubbles come out........ start the car and fill the radiator,until the rad. is full. then when the engine starts to heat up and before fluid starts to spill. put the cap on (fill the overflow tank to the cold level.), and after driving the car a few times . ................the engine heats up and discharges fluid into the discharge tank,then after cooling down the radiator sucks fluid back into the system. this will also expell the little bit of air that might be left in the system.(air thats still inside the engine)......
remember that water will boil at a lower temp. when Air is present. so if you have a good overflow tank and Rad. cap . the system will get the air out . but you have to keep an eye on the overflow tank to make sure theres enough fluid there to be sucked back in when the engine is cooling down...
You sure you have an air lock? While somewhat common in cars where the engine is higher than the radiator, it's pretty unusual for a Corvette.
At any rate, where you have a design with the expansion space higher than the highest water point in the engine, all you have to do is remove the radiator (or expansion tank) cap and run the engine to allow unpressurized water circulation. On systems where the highest water level is in the engine, there will be a burp valve to allow bleeding out the air.
But, again, the expansion space for Corvettes will be in the radiator or an expansion tank on the fender which almost always inhibits steam pockets forming in the heads.
this is the exact opposite of a vette!!! our engines are HIGHER than our rads. if your t-stat housing is the highest point of your system, this will be the most likely place for the air to gather. on the hose side of the t-stat, just wait for the t-stat to open then re-fill. on the block side things can be tough sometimes. drilling holes is an excellent way to remedy this problem. one way i was taught in a rad shop was to place aspirin in the t-stat to temporarily hold it open. it will stay open long enough for ALL air to circulate out of your system, then disolve. the long cylinder shaped pills work best. also on my vette ( before i went chrome ), i had a t-stat housing with factory pipe plugs i could unscrew and release air. the aspirin thing is real
i posted it once before on simialar thread. learned it in a rad shop i used to do some welding for. the owner was typical old guy/wizard, seen it all, done it all. probably could blow away any young engineer, even though he never finished high school. but thats another thread. it worked perfectly on cars like vette and oddball trucks like the cab over ones with weird engine placement.