L48 or L82
#1
Instructor
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L48 or L82
Experts,
I'm new to this forum, in fact I'm new to the world of corvettes. I'm looking to purchase a C3 and have found a 1980 C3 that's quite interesting; 48k miles, 350cu, 4 speed stick, yellow.
Anyway my question is, how do I tell which 350cu engine is fitted. Looking at my bible on Corvettes two engines were offered that year, a 185bhp and a 220 bhp but the owner doesn't know which one so how can I tell?
Also, coming from the UK I'm not sure what you mean when you say matching numbers. I assume that it's some reference to the engine block number and the car's VIN number - where are these stated in the documentation?
Any help would be much appreciated!
Thanks
I'm new to this forum, in fact I'm new to the world of corvettes. I'm looking to purchase a C3 and have found a 1980 C3 that's quite interesting; 48k miles, 350cu, 4 speed stick, yellow.
Anyway my question is, how do I tell which 350cu engine is fitted. Looking at my bible on Corvettes two engines were offered that year, a 185bhp and a 220 bhp but the owner doesn't know which one so how can I tell?
Also, coming from the UK I'm not sure what you mean when you say matching numbers. I assume that it's some reference to the engine block number and the car's VIN number - where are these stated in the documentation?
Any help would be much appreciated!
Thanks
#2
Race Director
The fifth didgit in the VIN # will be an "8" for L-48, a "6" for L-82. Also, "supposedly" there were no L-82 4spd car made, but I've read several sources that vary and say "up to 20 L-82 4spd 1980 Corvettes were built". I believe a few were made but never saw one in person-kinda like BigFoot & UFOs-hard to believe til you've seen one for yourself.
Last edited by Paul Borowski; 01-28-2005 at 11:54 AM.
#4
Burning Brakes
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Yep - if its an original 4-spd car, it had the L-48. That's not all bad as you will mod the engine anyway! Gives an even better excuse to drop in a 383 crate engine!
#5
Race Director
Originally Posted by djcwardog
Yep - if its an original 4-spd car, it had the L-48. That's not all bad as you will mod the engine anyway! Gives an even better excuse to drop in a 383 crate engine!
You could drive the L-48 and if its fast enough for you.....cruise it
#7
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Originally Posted by NHvette
L48 versus L82 is basically heads and cam swap.
It's easy to get more horsepower out of either engine -- don't reject the car because it has an L48. If everything else is OK and the price is right, go for it!
#8
Matching #'s means that the engine/trans is the same as was built to go with the body/frame. The engine # is located on the front right of the block where the block meets the head. The frame #'s are almost impossible to read unless body is off, or you are real good with a mirror.Obviously the public vin is located on the dash frame. If the car has the original drivers door , there should also be a sticker on the rear frame of the door. Some transmissions do not have a VIN.
#9
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Originally Posted by page62
The L82 was built with strong internals in the block. Nothing to really worry about though...neither engine was a powerhouse by today's standards.
It's easy to get more horsepower out of either engine -- don't reject the car because it has an L48. If everything else is OK and the price is right, go for it!
It's easy to get more horsepower out of either engine -- don't reject the car because it has an L48. If everything else is OK and the price is right, go for it!
If I'm not mistaken, the L-82 has a 4-bolt main...is that also the case with the L-48?
#10
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by flood
lol, everyone here is obsessed with modding their cars.
You could drive the L-48 and if its fast enough for you.....cruise it
You could drive the L-48 and if its fast enough for you.....cruise it
Mine came with an L48. I tweaked it as best I could, then when the opportunity presented itself, nabbed a 383 and swapped it. I still have the L48 and will start going through it and warming it up. Someday I'll get a rolling chassis chrome bumper convertible and put the 383 in that behind a 5 speed.
#11
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Thanks for all the advice!
I guess I am trying to figure out whether this is a good car;
1980
48k original miles
Fresh paint (yellow)
stored in california for the last 15 years with regular start ups & brief drives to keep everything in order.
The seller has been honest and told me a corvette specialist has inspected the vehicle and it requires the following;
New tires all round
New suspension bushes
Front Brake calipers are siezed
Rear bearings could do with repacking
Valve cover gaskets need replacing
To me that doesn't sound like too much work to recomission a corvette. He is asking 9.5k. Does this seem a fair price?
Advice would be great!
Thanks
I guess I am trying to figure out whether this is a good car;
1980
48k original miles
Fresh paint (yellow)
stored in california for the last 15 years with regular start ups & brief drives to keep everything in order.
The seller has been honest and told me a corvette specialist has inspected the vehicle and it requires the following;
New tires all round
New suspension bushes
Front Brake calipers are siezed
Rear bearings could do with repacking
Valve cover gaskets need replacing
To me that doesn't sound like too much work to recomission a corvette. He is asking 9.5k. Does this seem a fair price?
Advice would be great!
Thanks
#14
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by trevkris2
If I'm not mistaken, the L-82 has a 4-bolt main...is that also the case with the L-48?
See more info at
http://www.l-82.com/
#15
Le Mans Master
The l82 has a 4bolt main and the l48 a 2bolt. The 2bolt main is good enough for 300 rwhp, both engines need some mods...
The suspension bushings are not that difficult to replace, while you have the front apart you probably want to replace spring and shocks.... Brakes: 4 new calipers and MC, new stainless steel lines and you won't have to worry about that anymore..
If you can do the work yourself (except the wheel bearings) I'd estimate less than $1000 in parts.
Complete trailing arm rebuilds (including new bearings) are somewhere around $500-$700...
$9500 is pretty high.... how good is the paint job ??
The suspension bushings are not that difficult to replace, while you have the front apart you probably want to replace spring and shocks.... Brakes: 4 new calipers and MC, new stainless steel lines and you won't have to worry about that anymore..
If you can do the work yourself (except the wheel bearings) I'd estimate less than $1000 in parts.
Complete trailing arm rebuilds (including new bearings) are somewhere around $500-$700...
$9500 is pretty high.... how good is the paint job ??
#16
Le Mans Master
The l82 has a 4bolt main and the l48 a 2bolt. The 2bolt main is good enough for 300 rwhp, both engines need some mods...
The suspension bushings are not that difficult to replace, while you have the front apart you probably want to replace spring and shocks.... Brakes: 4 new calipers and MC, new stainless steel lines and you won't have to worry about that anymore..
If you can do the work yourself (except the wheel bearings) I'd estimate less than $1000 in parts.
Complete trailing arm rebuilds (including new bearings) are somewhere around $500-$700...
$9500 is pretty high....... how good is the paint job ??
The suspension bushings are not that difficult to replace, while you have the front apart you probably want to replace spring and shocks.... Brakes: 4 new calipers and MC, new stainless steel lines and you won't have to worry about that anymore..
If you can do the work yourself (except the wheel bearings) I'd estimate less than $1000 in parts.
Complete trailing arm rebuilds (including new bearings) are somewhere around $500-$700...
$9500 is pretty high....... how good is the paint job ??
#17
Melting Slicks
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i agree with most of the others. by todays standards even the L -82 is a wuss. but either engine is an excellent place to start. and i would give the 2 bolt way more credit than 300 hp. it can handle more, easy. 99% of the time your gonna end up modding this car anyway. so if your looking for a toy buy the car. if you looking to wack off to vin #'s and chalk marks, eat brie and sip wine, save your cash for another day.
#19
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For that money and the work it need i hope the rest of the car is in real good shape. 9.5$ seem a lot . An L48 or a L82 don't make a big difference ,you still have a car that you can enjoy . I don't know for laters years but my '78 have the L82 label on the tach and have an aluminium intake and aluminium valve covers. That a fast way to tell if you don't remember whitch digit to look for on the serial number.
#20
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Originally Posted by RedBad1979
The suspension bushings are not that difficult to replace, while you have the front apart you probably want to replace spring and shocks.... Brakes: 4 new calipers and MC, new stainless steel lines and you won't have to worry about that anymore..
If you can do the work yourself (except the wheel bearings) I'd estimate less than $1000 in parts.
Complete trailing arm rebuilds (including new bearings) are somewhere around $500-$700...
$9500 is pretty high.... how good is the paint job ??
If you can do the work yourself (except the wheel bearings) I'd estimate less than $1000 in parts.
Complete trailing arm rebuilds (including new bearings) are somewhere around $500-$700...
$9500 is pretty high.... how good is the paint job ??
With all that said I'm beginning to get the impression that this is a lot of work to carry out. With all that said what do you think is a reasonable value of the car?