Norval- TT - Question exhaust flanges
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Norval- TT - Question exhaust flanges
Your typical header flange arrangement has these
attaching to the headers then thru 2 and 1/2 pipe thru the frame cutouts and then another set of flanges like above on the other side of the cutouts to allow you to pull the exhaust for work to the rear end/ spring etc. Now either way I'm stuck with a length of pipe with flanges on either side that won't let me remove that pipe save for me welding them off.
Has anyone came up with a split flange design that allows you to remove the entire length of pipe (one piece from the header collector all the way to the muffler) thru the exhaust cutouts off the car.
Using a JBA seal (small enough to fit thru the cutouts) and with the flange itself, make one out of hardened steel or T04 that is minumum 1" thick. Cut exactly in half but threaded inside on both sides using 2 allen bolts (a picture would be nice here) so it could be removed off the pipe and the pipe pushed thru the cutouts.
Ideas?
Edit update
currently the PO put non-stainless 2.5" solid 1-piece from headers all the way back to mufflers, tranny, rear spring, rear end work is not an option due to Bubba's work.
attaching to the headers then thru 2 and 1/2 pipe thru the frame cutouts and then another set of flanges like above on the other side of the cutouts to allow you to pull the exhaust for work to the rear end/ spring etc. Now either way I'm stuck with a length of pipe with flanges on either side that won't let me remove that pipe save for me welding them off. Has anyone came up with a split flange design that allows you to remove the entire length of pipe (one piece from the header collector all the way to the muffler) thru the exhaust cutouts off the car.
Using a JBA seal (small enough to fit thru the cutouts) and with the flange itself, make one out of hardened steel or T04 that is minumum 1" thick. Cut exactly in half but threaded inside on both sides using 2 allen bolts (a picture would be nice here) so it could be removed off the pipe and the pipe pushed thru the cutouts.
Ideas?
Edit update
currently the PO put non-stainless 2.5" solid 1-piece from headers all the way back to mufflers, tranny, rear spring, rear end work is not an option due to Bubba's work.
Last edited by Cali,68,L-79; Jan 31, 2005 at 07:28 PM.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
From: Atascadero Ca
That's a tough question. I'd love to hear the solution. Its a difficult job just getting the 2.5" pipe and the flared out ends like you have pictured above through the cutouts. You can't get stock style flanges through there, that's for sure. The only thing i can think of is a clamp setup where you swedge out the ends (Make the pipe 2.5" ID), put it around a standard piece of pipe and run a regular U shaped exhaust clamp. Something like this...
Another thought. If you've ever seen/heard of the header hush, maybee someone can help me with a diagram or picture of one. You could flare out both ends and and make a header hush connection with a standard collector gasket in between.
Another thought. If you've ever seen/heard of the header hush, maybee someone can help me with a diagram or picture of one. You could flare out both ends and and make a header hush connection with a standard collector gasket in between.
Last edited by i885744; Jan 31, 2005 at 04:26 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 16,978
Likes: 7
From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
take the pipes to a muffler shop they will expand the pipe with the flanges on the pipe...then use the flat flange gasket to seal the exhaust..you will need two flanges per pipe, ditto with the gaskets...
Oooops...I'm bad...4 flanges per side....
Oooops...I'm bad...4 flanges per side....
Last edited by GDaina; Jan 31, 2005 at 04:33 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
Clamps suck IMO, they crush the pipes and scrape the streets (or you have to turn them upside down)
A better idea would be to duplicate the slip on part of the drawing but weld tabs on both sides of the pipe, these tabs would then sit against each other and a bolt can be run through them, the tabs don't have to be big and2 on each pipe will do the trick.
A better idea would be to duplicate the slip on part of the drawing but weld tabs on both sides of the pipe, these tabs would then sit against each other and a bolt can be run through them, the tabs don't have to be big and2 on each pipe will do the trick.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
A proper setup slip fit will seal off the pipe also, no need to go crush the pipe. A little high temp sealant between the slip joint and it won't leak nor rot tight together (in cse of non stainless exhaust)
As for clamps sealing off the pipe, they also create leaks when tightened too tight, the pipe will crush on the top and bottom, and it will deform to an oval shape, resulting in leaks on the sides.
As for clamps sealing off the pipe, they also create leaks when tightened too tight, the pipe will crush on the top and bottom, and it will deform to an oval shape, resulting in leaks on the sides.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88,393
Likes: 2
From: eville in
Originally Posted by Schmucker
I use dual band clamps with some exhaust sealer on the ends. Allows for butt splices in the exhaust pipe. They come in stainless too. Very convienent.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
Yes, those are a good alternative, especially the upper ones, i use those for silicon hoses & rad. lower hose also. They will only work properly if you cut a couple of slits in the expanded section of pipe.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
okay if I understand right using the picture in the 1st reply I can use the 1st clamp pictured. Would not the "swelled" 2.5" ID going to 2.5" OD create a ledge where there would be leaks?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 986
Likes: 23
From: Florence SC
If the exhaust removal is truely a issue, why not modify the cross member for removal. I've not done it but I can think of times in the past I should have made an attempt to make my pipes easier to remove. 
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by bracketshark
If the exhaust removal is truely a issue, why not modify the cross member for removal. I've not done it but I can think of times in the past I should have made an attempt to make my pipes easier to remove.
This is a old picture and I no longer use this exhaust but it is a full 3 inches, runs under the crossmember and moves it out from the transmission.
I don't like clamping the pipes either. My mufflers are slid on and then only lightly clamped to prevent crushing the pipe.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
I hate exhausting work, it's a PIA on any car, and a super duty PIA on any vette,.....
I take it down the street and have Ricky weld it up any way he likes...and it works.....
when I cut the system open from time to time, I choose a straight section to cut through, then wrap some galvanized flashing around it, with hose clamps, surprisingly quiet for trips to Ricky's for rewelding....sometimes I leave it on there for several months....
GENE
I take it down the street and have Ricky weld it up any way he likes...and it works.....
when I cut the system open from time to time, I choose a straight section to cut through, then wrap some galvanized flashing around it, with hose clamps, surprisingly quiet for trips to Ricky's for rewelding....sometimes I leave it on there for several months....
GENE
