Thats what I was thinking. I know he's getting a new diff but it will already come w/a pinion yoke.
How do I remove the differential driveshaft yoke?
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
How do I remove the differential driveshaft yoke?
Any special tools needed?
If I remove the bolt that holds the yoke, will I be able to pul it out or will I need a puller?
If I remove the bolt that holds the yoke, will I be able to pul it out or will I need a puller?
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Melting Slicks
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From: St. Charles Mo
CI 5 & 8 Veteran
Originally Posted by gtr1999
Also be advised that if you're planning on reusing the yoke or installing another on that diff you're changing the bearing pre-load. If you're just removing it to use on another diff that's another story but be sure of the pre-load.
Gary
Gary
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From: St. Charles Mo
CI 5 & 8 Veteran
Originally Posted by gtr1999
If you're asking about marking yours so you can replace the pinion seal then yes mark the position before moving anything, measure the end of the pinion to the yoke if you want but you have to get it bad to that spot using the old nut. Use red loctite on the nut when you're done.
Let me know if I answered your question,
Gary
Let me know if I answered your question,
Gary
I have a small leak on Project RamJet and was contemplating changing the seal while I was in the middle of my Tremic 5-speed update. It's been awhile since I did this 
Bullshark.....aka Bull head,
artist...etc
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by Van Steel
Olivier,
Why are you trying to remove the pinion yoke??
Why are you trying to remove the pinion yoke??
So - here's the plan:
1) Remove the 1350 series yoke from the differential and install the 1330 yoke and a seal for a 1330 yoke.
2) borrow a old AT driveshaft from you guys and have a new 1330 series u-joint installed on the diff side and a 1330/1350 conversion u-joint on the other side to connect to my 1350 transmission slip yoke ... and viola, I'll have a driveshaft that'll work with my current setup and I'll be able to drive the car until the 12-bolt will arrive.. However - my driving will be limited because the differential in the car is damaged (something must've broken off and get's caught in the gears every once in a while... Maybe a tooth from a spider gear.. Don't know.. For limited driving - I should be ok...
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Originally Posted by Schmucker
Can't you just run two 1330/1350 conversion u-joints?
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I wouldn't do it. The crush sleeve is designed to only be tightened once. You can not back a crush sleeve off and then reuse.
Gary this is something that doesn't come up with using a solid spacer instead of a crush sleeve. With a spacer you can change all the yokes you want and never have to reset the preload, it is fixed with the spacer.
Oliver I wouldn't do it. You are asking for the pinion nut to back off and ruin the rearend. The problem with this is when you back off at the end of the track, the pinion gets sucked forward by the backing off and the pinion nuts have a habbit of walking forward too.
Guys with big tires in their 4 x 4 have this happen on a steep downhill. The pinion just walks out the front.
This same effect is you backing off at the end of the run using the motor to pull you down.
Gary this is something that doesn't come up with using a solid spacer instead of a crush sleeve. With a spacer you can change all the yokes you want and never have to reset the preload, it is fixed with the spacer.
Oliver I wouldn't do it. You are asking for the pinion nut to back off and ruin the rearend. The problem with this is when you back off at the end of the track, the pinion gets sucked forward by the backing off and the pinion nuts have a habbit of walking forward too.
Guys with big tires in their 4 x 4 have this happen on a steep downhill. The pinion just walks out the front.
This same effect is you backing off at the end of the run using the motor to pull you down.
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
The rearend is already shot...so I'm not worried about causing any more damage. It occasionally locks up for a moment but immediately releases.. Probably a broken off tooth that gets caught in the gears..
I just want to be able to drive slowly for a few miles to address any problems with my engine or transmission...
I just want to be able to drive slowly for a few miles to address any problems with my engine or transmission...
