frame rust
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Is the vette "on the road" ?
I would gladly look at it with you.
I'm in Brookline NH ... Rt2 to Rt13 N ... one mile over the MA/NH border.
I don't have a lift, but I have seen it all (like Carl).
I opted to replace my entire rear clip (because of birdcage rot)
and frame.
Even my "good" frame needed repairs to be perfect.
Most of the rust on these babies is hidden, but peeking
in a few of the right places can reveal the overall condition.
Can you poke a screwdriver through your "rust" ?
If not, then we are off to a good start.
-Dave
I would gladly look at it with you.
I'm in Brookline NH ... Rt2 to Rt13 N ... one mile over the MA/NH border.
I don't have a lift, but I have seen it all (like Carl).
I opted to replace my entire rear clip (because of birdcage rot)
and frame.
Even my "good" frame needed repairs to be perfect.
Most of the rust on these babies is hidden, but peeking
in a few of the right places can reveal the overall condition.
Can you poke a screwdriver through your "rust" ?
If not, then we are off to a good start.
-Dave
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
I just got done fixing that same area on my '80. My rust extended into the rail at the bottom. I cut out the end plate, the support about 4 inches in from it and the outer rail bottom. I fabbed new pieces welded them in and are not noticeable. The end plates and sections of the rail are available from several suppliers, it was just eaiser ti make my own .
P.S. my repairs were easy as I have the body off. But just the frame rail end plate is easy even with body on.
P.S. my repairs were easy as I have the body off. But just the frame rail end plate is easy even with body on.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: North Worcester County MA
thanks again for all the help. A member of this forum who lives close to me emailed me and offered to go through the corvette with me. I emailed him back and look forward to learning and maybe someday being able to help others as much as I have been helped.
I checked all the other areas with a screwdriver. I don't see any other problems. I'm hopeful that this is isolated to this small area.
thanks again
I checked all the other areas with a screwdriver. I don't see any other problems. I'm hopeful that this is isolated to this small area.
thanks again
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Originally Posted by rfcharles81
thanks again for all the help. A member of this forum who lives close to me emailed me and offered to go through the corvette with me. I emailed him back and look forward to learning and maybe someday being able to help others as much as I have been helped.
I checked all the other areas with a screwdriver. I don't see any other problems. I'm hopeful that this is isolated to this small area.
thanks again
I checked all the other areas with a screwdriver. I don't see any other problems. I'm hopeful that this is isolated to this small area.
thanks again
Rick B.
4th Gear
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by johnt365
Hey, you may want to check out www.por-15.com I am about to do my frame with it.
Ed
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
POR 15 likes (prefers) some light surface rust. A wire brush
will do fine. Just make sure there is no loose material, oil,
grease, dirt, etc.
Also, it will stick to paint, but underlying paint will not allow
the POR15 to provide total protection, as rust can start
forming and creep under the paint.
As far as blasting media goes, "black beauty" silicon carbide
will get stuff off fast and leave a rough surface for good adhesion.
Don't get "fine" - TOO fine, IMO.
Also, treating with a Phosphoric acid solution will dissolve the rust
and make it brush off easier. Trouble is that you need to wash off
the solution before coating. Good thing is that the acid gives you'
a nice tough surface that the POR15 adheres to. I use two products:
"Must for Rust" at Home Depot or Naval Jelly for longer treatments on
vertical surfaces.
will do fine. Just make sure there is no loose material, oil,
grease, dirt, etc.
Also, it will stick to paint, but underlying paint will not allow
the POR15 to provide total protection, as rust can start
forming and creep under the paint.
As far as blasting media goes, "black beauty" silicon carbide
will get stuff off fast and leave a rough surface for good adhesion.
Don't get "fine" - TOO fine, IMO.
Also, treating with a Phosphoric acid solution will dissolve the rust
and make it brush off easier. Trouble is that you need to wash off
the solution before coating. Good thing is that the acid gives you'
a nice tough surface that the POR15 adheres to. I use two products:
"Must for Rust" at Home Depot or Naval Jelly for longer treatments on
vertical surfaces.
Last edited by NHvette; Feb 3, 2005 at 11:20 AM.
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