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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 08:12 AM
  #1  
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Default Just my luck

I fiddle with the timing this weekend. Get it to the point where the engine actually dies when I turn off the key, and doesn't sound like a sick Harley when it's idling at 600 and generally sounding and running TONS better than before, and what happens? There's not enough vacuum to pull the headlights up anymore.

I just can't win. Guess it's time to break out the gauge and start over again. *sigh*
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 08:25 AM
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look for a leak also
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 08:30 AM
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This with a stock-like camshaft? Sounds like a vacuum leak if so...
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 09:59 AM
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No, it's a very much NOT stock cam. It was in the car when I bought it, so I don't know exactly which cam it is, but it's pretty lopy to begin with. All I was told was that it was a "3/4" cam.

I did find an open vacuum port on the carb when we were tuning it up and plugged it, but haven't found anything since.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 10:06 AM
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I've suffered from low vacuum for quite a while. When I was pulling off the intake to do a head swap, I found the two bolts naer the smog ports to be VERY loose.

Gee, I wonder why I had low vacuum...?

Some people use propane or carb cleaner to trace vacuum leaks around the carb base and intake.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 03:28 PM
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600 rpm idle cant help much. that is low
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by redc3
600 rpm idle cant help much. that is low
something at least around 800ish would be better.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ruby76
something at least around 800ish would be better.
I am guessing it starts tolose its lope around 800. I have mine down to around 600 RPM also and it will still pull the lights up. I believe you may have a few slow leaks in the lights.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 04:05 PM
  #9  
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The thing that really irritates me is I just replaced the lower seals about a month ago, and everything worked just fine until this past weekend. All of the sudden, both lights only popup around an inch or so. And other than the starter, the only thing we did was plug up a leak at the carb and fiddle with the timing.

As for the idle speed, 600 - 650 is where it's always been set, and where the lights was working before. It does seem to lose the lope around 7 or 8, I've just never run it up any higher for one reason or another. On a side note, giving it gas doesn't seem to do anything for the lights, even when the fast-idle is kicked in at 15 or 20 grand.

I dunno.

Last edited by Xakk; Feb 3, 2005 at 04:09 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 09:57 AM
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Is that considered a "lope" or barely running

If it really has a lope, it will lope at almost any speed. my bro had an engine with large enough cam, that it needed to idle at about 1200 rpm and sounded like a normal engine idling at 500.
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Old Feb 10, 2005 | 08:10 AM
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Well hell. I'm showing 16 inches of vacuum at the intake. That should be plenty. And the relays are pulling somewhere around 10 with the switch pulled. I can hear vacuum sucking in the right canister, and if I block off that line, the left headlight will pop up.

Now that I think about it, I pulled up the left light when I was working on the car to adjust the low beams. I'm betting I pulled it up too fast and created enough backpressure to pop the other seal. That's my theory anyway. That seal wasn't even a month old either.

Dammit.
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Old Feb 10, 2005 | 10:53 AM
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Sounds something like when I replaced everything for the vacuum system with a kit from Zip. They worked great for one week then only the left light lifted but slowly. The problem was the new shaft boot split so I put the old one on and they worked great. The new boots were very hard and dry compared with the old ones.

What did you do to get the engine to shut off when you turned off the key?
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 10:01 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Bangkok Dean
What did you do to get the engine to shut off when you turned off the key?
Just kept fiddling with the timing. Once the timing was straightened out, I had to turn the idle back down. I guess it was pretty far out of time. Still don't think it's perfect, but it sure runs a lot better than it did.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 10:12 AM
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see what line your headlights are on? do they share a line with something else like the PCV valve?....does it have a check valve in it? i would examine the hose routing and see if it works it its isolated by itself.....
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 05:51 PM
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I put a gauge on the line coming off the relay. Both relays are pulling about 10 inches still, so I don't think it's a lack of vacuum. If I block off the line for the right light, the left one pops. Blocking off the left light won't pop the right one, and I can hear it sucking in the canister. I'm pretty sure I just tore the seal again. It just irks me. I just changed the seals a month or so ago.
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Old Feb 11, 2005 | 08:57 PM
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It looks like you found your problem. It may just be that adjusting the timing was what you knew or remember you did last before the lights failed.

But as you wrote about in your last post, when you block the right cannister, where you can hear a leak, the left light pops up.
So I think I would agree with you, that the problem is with the lights, and not your timing.

kdf
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