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i used a rented 9" gear puller, put the castle nut back on halfway to protect the threads, and actually you'll wind up pushing the spindle out, instead of pulling it. i had everything mounted in my vise on my workbench. put some nuts over the wheel studs to protect their threads before chucking it in your vise.
i used a rented 9" gear puller, put the castle nut back on halfway to protect the threads, and actually you'll wind up pushing the spindle out, instead of pulling it. i had everything mounted in my vise on my workbench. put some nuts over the wheel studs to protect their threads before chucking it in your vise.
I started using my 9" gear puller configured where I was pushing on the spindle, but stopped because I was not sure if it was going to damage something.
I have a friend who has a shop press, so I may take it over there if I can't get the gear puller to push it out.
I tried a big hammer type puller from the outside......no luck. Now I can't get the whole spindle support unit off........I'm gonna have few beers now........
I second this... 700.00 plus shipping one way... All new wheel bearings, front bushing and SS parking brake hardware.. They also clean and powder coat the arm for you... Or you can continue down the path you are on....... Dave..
I second this... 700.00 plus shipping one way... All new wheel bearings, front bushing and SS parking brake hardware.. They also clean and powder coat the arm for you... Or you can continue down the path you are on....... Dave..
The inner and outer bearings are an interference fit so they are on tight. A BIG hammer and the knocker tool will probably knock them loose but I prefer to use a 20 ton press. getting the bearings off is 1/2 the battle. setting them to .001-.002" endplay is another. If you understand how to setup a machine spindle these a baby's toys. If you're not used to working within a few thousands(.000) then send them out. You will need a setup tool-either a made one or an old spindle polished undersize. When I fit the bearing spacer, I measure then use a surface grinder to dial them right in where I want them-.001-.002" You can set them up without a grinder but you'l have to sand them on a flat surface. You need to have a parallel surface on the shim. I haven't yet had one where the shims in the kit provided the correct endplay. They get within .003" which I wouldn't use.
IM me and I'll give you might contact number if you want to go over the job.
Gary
You can buy a tool to remove them. It's a triangular shapped piece of steel with an attachment to the spindle fork (ie where the strut rods attach) and two bolts that attach into the bolt holes normally used by the brake caliper housing. The tool cost about $180. Several of the Corvette vendors sell the tool (Ecklers, Mid America, etc)
Now, that being said, you probably should not use the tool. If you have corrosion, the large torque necessary to remove the spindle will bend your brake caliper attachment ring.
The specialty C3 repair/retoration houses will use a press to push out the spindle without harming your cast iron bracket used to attach the brake calipers.
I did use the triangular tool to remove my spindle half axles. I wasn't aware of the danger. (When you buy the tool, theres no mention of the harm you can do.) I had no problem. My California dry weather car didn't have a corrosion problem and the tool successfully pushed out the half axles.
I took my assembly to Tom's Differentials for new bearings. They said that they preferred that customers not try to remove the half axles due to the caliper distortion problem. I believe that Van Steel also recommends that customers not try to remove their half axles before sending things in for repair.
This is the outer bearing coming off, but you get the idea.
Same idea for popping it off the bearing carrier (inner bearing).
I use 4x4s and 1/4" thick angle iron.
I used the spindle knocker and a 4lb hammer. The one side took 10 or so hits for it to come off. The other side was more difficult due to the fact I could not remove the rotor because the parking brake shoes could not be backed off.
If you are able to do the work, are willing to buy some special tools, and the parts are in good conition, there is no reason to send them out for repair or order replacements. The price of parts to rebuild a pair ,including new stainless steel parking brakes parts and new shoes, will cost a little over $100. I have no doubt that the vendors who rebuild them do a great job; however, I prefer to invest in the tools and do it myself. Should I ever buy another vette that needs the TA's rebuilt, I would not hesitate to do it knowing I have the knowledge and tools for it.
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