...

 

Carbs need someone (or something) to depress the accelerator to set the choke when they are cold. The remote start systems don't include anything that does this, so they are sold as EFI only kits.

Maybe you could rig something up....

 

Do you have emissions testing where you live? You'll be very tempted to modify your car for more power, which means scrapping the computer-controlled carb and distributor. But if they do smog tests, you'll have to keep everything essentially stock.

In fact, the '81 would be a good candidate for an EFI swap. Then you could have your remote start...

 

I think the '81 is a much maligned C3. It has a computer in it but so what? You can change cam, heads, manifolds, etc & the computer can handle it (up to a point), the problems start when you use cams with large overlap & reduce the manifold vacuum at idle. The ECU can't handle this, so at some point you'll have to fit a "normal" carb (or EFI) & distributor. No great problem. What is forgotten by many is the massive weight savings built in (out?) by the factory. The '81 weighs a lot less than the late 70's models due to more use of aluminium, lightened glass, etc. If you're not interested in luxury items then you can remove them eg aircon, electric windows, antenna (why keep it - the stereo is dire), etc, & get a much lighter C3. Reducing weight is a good way to improve the power/weight ratio & the '81 is a good starting point if you want to go that way. Emission control eqpt can be ripped out easily without the ECU throwing a wobbler. The monospring fitted on the autos gives a great ride (MUST have compatible shocks on the rear).
If you're not after vast power figures then the ECU does a good job of giving good economy if you drive carefully (I could get into the low 20's before I fitted an OD trans).
How much power do you want? There's stacks of posts in the archives on '81's with a lot of useful info (if you can get the search function to work).
Steering wheel? Mine's showing its age, but they ain't cheap
The dash on mine looked old & dirty so I used a toothbrush (Yes! We do have them ) & some interior cleaner to clean it up. Took most of a day just sitting there scrubbing, but when we finished it looked as good as new. The toothbrush only tasted funny for a couple of weeks.....
There's a lot of nice enhancements on the '81 & if you like the body style then don't let the computer put you off buying it if its a good one.
Sig attached for a list of mods that didn't freak the ecomputer.

 

Hi,
I'll probably get buried under a lot of posts disagreeing with this, but if I had secure parking at work I'd have no problem with using my C3 as a daily driver. It's been very reliable, the only problem being the water pump bearings giving up (still got me home though). I did fry the starter motor as well, but that was my fault for putting on Headers that were right next to it The important thing is to get a well looked after C3 to begin with (just like you would with any old car) & it should serve you well.
I use normal unleaded fuel, the lowest grade. I've tried higher octane fuel but couldn't tell any difference. I use Castrol Magnetec (for the "older" engine) which I think is a semi synthetic? Prior to the last oil change I was running normal castrol GTX (I'm a great believer in that if an engine has run all its life on dino oil, then why change? Unless the shop hasn't got any GTX in stock!). A forum member runs his '81 on Mobil 1 with no issues. I think the most important thing about oil & older designs of engines is regular changes (along with the filter).

 

Hi Welcome to the 81 family, I have changed out my engine to a better HP unit. This cost money but I like the car. When I first started on my projects in Jan 2004 UKPAUL was the first one to give me advice (I don’t remember what it was) but remember this guy from the UK really loving his Vette and willing to help me. If you check out my pictures you will see many mods. Anyway I have a 4 speed and to start I have to depress the clutch pedal first then it cranks over before she starts most times when she is hot I have to give some gas before she starts. On my Harley it has EFI and starts instantly but my older Harley (carbureted) had to crank first and sometimes give it some gas to start. Now I have an alarm system that is cool as it sends a signal to a receiver that I wear on my belt that is also the button to set/ unset, it also locks and unlocks the doors but no self starting.

Good luck with your new Vette and if you need any help folks like UKPAUL will be here for you.

 

Good luck with the car, I see you say the steering wheel is not the best. What color is it ? I have an extra, new Oyster/black center repro wheel for sale very reasonable.

 

Use regular gas and a good quality conventional oil. Save your nickels so you can upgrade the car

 

The steering system in the C3 Vettes uses a separate power-assist hydraulic ram, whereas other cars in the '70s were using integrated power steering boxes (or rack & pinion).

You can adjust the steering box by tightening the screw on the top. Do it in small increments until the play is acceptable. If you screw it down too tight, the box will bind! :eek

Some of us (including me) have upgraded our steering system to a Steeroids rack & pinion unit. Others use the Corvette Steering integrated power assist steering box.

 

Rack & pinion steering is what the majority of modern cars are fitted with. It's superior to the stock C3 system as it's far more precise (and a lot of modern car drivers need all the help they can get!). With R&P you turn the steering wheel & the road wheels turn. With the stock system on the C3 you turn the steering wheel & it feels like it has to take up the slack in the system before turning the wheels.
The steering wheel on mine isn't hard to turn at all, so there could be a problem with your power steering? Or maybe it's just relative? The Vette's steering is heavier than some other cars with PS but it's lighter than a few others I've driven. Compared to an old MGB with no PS it feels like it's a car for wimps!
As for driving with the stock steering I've found that it's fine when turning corners, no complaints at all, but it can get really ****ling on long journeys on straight roads as I find that I'm frequently doing slight steering corrections. It's nothing you'd notice until you think about it, but driving a car with R&P & then driving the C3 shows it up. It's not a major problem, but it is the one thing I don't like about C3's. It feels precise & responsive when driving down twisty roads that need lots of direction changes, but when cruising down a highway at speed it can feel vague. At first it doesn't give you any confidence in it (maybe I've bought something that steers like a shopping trolley on ice? ), but once you get used to it & find that it does go where you point it you'll feel more confident in it. You'll still feel pi**ed that the might of GM couldn't fit R&P steering in their flagship sportscars (but they could afford to fit aircon, power windows, power seats......).

To start the car from cold depress the throttle twice, with a pause of a second or so between the pumps. This both squirts some fuel into the engine (from the accelerator pump) & operates the choke. Then crank the engine with no throttle. As soon as it catches it should run at facts idle. When it's warmed slightly a dab of the throttle should take it off fast idle (mine only needs about 30secs, others take longer). Don't walk away & leave it on fast idle to warm up for long as it'll be running on full choke (a bad thing). To start from hot just turn the key & it should go. When it's lukewarm mine will sometimes start immediately on the key, other times it wont, so I guve it a pump on the throttle & it usually starts immediately. The only time you should have a problem is if the throttle has been pumped a few time (mates are good at this if you let them sit in it!) & it floods the engine. Don't try to start it like a "normal" car by dabbing the throttle while you spin the engine over as all you'll do is pump more neat fuel in. Just hold the throttle to the floor & sin the motor for a few secs (if it won't start stop after about 10secs to let the starter motor cool down & try again after a short while). Eventually it'll start up with a few coughs & splutters & you'll see a $10 cloud of black smoke in the rear view mirror! Flooding the engine & starting it up is an great way to wind up any nearby environmentallists that are moaning about old gas guzzlers

 

The Corvette Steering integrated box is NOT what you have. The stock system has a separate steering box and power steering ram. The Corvette Steering system has both components in one box.

The Steeroids rack & pinion unit is offered by Speed Direct, which is a supporting vendor of this site. Flaming River makes good stuff, but they don't support this site (there's a hint in here...)

Finally, you can adjust the play in the box yourself. If you're not adept at working on your car, well...that's why we're here. This is pretty much a DIY crowd. UKPaul, for example, has no choice but to do everything himself. In Britain, there's practically no one who knows how to work on C3s!

 

We just make it up as we go along

 

Another soon to be famous quote from UKPAUL

 

My pen rye

 

Sorry Quote "its Mi pen rye karp" I guess its that Brit accent where it gets lost

 

You cannot use a remote start with a choke and let it sit for 5 minutes. The reason for this is because the choke in a carb engages the fast idle cam...and the only way to stop it is to "kick" it off. And I've never heard of a solenoid engineered to pump the carb. Somebody's feeding you

Believe me, if you're getting a C3 you're going to have a lot more to concern yourself with than niceties like remote start.

 

You will have your handsfull of other things to be done on your C3.

 

I don't think he was referring to just idling like at a light or at the drive up window. But choked fast idle that is when you start cold. Here in Bangkok the temps out side are in the high 90 low 100 and getting stuck at a long light line the engine sometimes get hot but if you switch off the A/C it will cool down. I have a manual choke on my Vette and very rarely use it.

 

Again, it does not hert the car to let it warm up but on cold days you will have to engage the automatic choke that not only chokes the carb but puts in into fast idle. For a two of three minutes that should not be a problem but for continued time it COULD possable be a problem. Sitting in a car for continued normal (no choke) ideling to keep warn should not be any problem. For me it never gets cold here and I don't even have a heater just open the window and you get more heat than you need.

 

Are you thinking of using this car as a daily driver? Be aware these cars will show their "weak links" very quickly if driven on a regular basis. I'm not saying you can't do it -- many forum members do drive theirs daily -- but they require a higher level of care & feeding than you may realize.