one thing i think is missing is your saying you dropped dist. in with the rotor pointing at #1. ok, but where is the dist. pointing? you must get the dist. real close to original position ( assuming correct ). in other words you will install incorrect even with rotor at #1 if its pointing at the firewall. it should be at #1 pointing at the drivers side a-arm. or maybe the front corner of drivers side valve cover would be a better analogy. EVERY timing chain on a smb chevy lines up with the dots together. at least all the ones ive seen or done. and yes im aware of the advance/retard option on aftermarket timing sets. but thats a whole different story. are you guys disconnecting the vacuam advance when your using the timing light? didnt hear that mentioned either. and if its a later model you have to diconnect the electronic advance to time it.

 

If it runs, it's close - period. There's nothing major wrong.

The first thing you need to do is break that cam in at around 2500 RPM for a bit to get the cam and bearings well acquainted. You must keep the revs up to keep a good flow of oil through the bearings.

If the timing os off too much, you can move the distributor a bit while the cam is cooking to get it roughly close. After the cam is all set, then you can go back and start all over again with the timing light. Remove and plug the vacuum line, and set the timing at idle (or a LITTLE higher to keep it running).

You aren't too far off...

 

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Let me see if I got this right. You changed cams, timing chain/gears, and thought if you dropped in the distubutor it would be timed just right. I was thinking that you could not get the engine to run properly while getting the timing set at the apprpoiate amount.

 

First of all thanks to everybody who replied with good information to my reply above.
I've done all that..... I had the timing cover, the valve covers and the distributor cap off, then I turned the crank and watched the valves opening and closing. I had #1 piston on TDC on compression stroke and my marks on the timing gears were both at 12 o'clock.... I accepted this as "must be correct" and the engine runs fine... the original timing mark on my balancer is under the water pump when I put the timing light on (cable #1, no vacuum advance).... it's indicating roughly 60 degrees advanced timing - impossible, the engine wouldn't run....

I removed the balancer and marked the crank key position on the balancer's OD and re-installed it.... this new timing mark indicates 10-12 degree advance....

I do not know why the marks are all messed up.... I just accept it and hope the engine continues to run as good as it does until I can start my stroker project....

 

OK, here's what I've done. I pulled #1 plug. Put a rag in hole and 'bumped' it around until the rag blew out. Turn it a bit to get the balancer and timing plate all lined up at 0. Pulled the cap and it was pointing at #1 plugwire on the cap. Also, if you draw aline, it basicly is pointing at the #1 cylinder. So I pulled the distributor. turned the crank 1 more full turn and alinged all the marks. Put distributor back in exactly as it was. Started the car. Ran rough. But it ran. Put the light on and I could see my timing marks where they should be. So now I have pulled the valve covers and I have redone the valvelash. Used the between the finger method. Then went only half a turn on all the valves and in the correct sequence. I'll have to wait till this evening before I get everything hooked back up before I attempt the timing again. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

 

Right, sorry, think I'm probably wrong about the no6 thing. It's been ages since I did the Vette & I'm currently messing about with an electronic ignition that's been wired up wrong on something that has 360* (on the crank) firing sequence, uses wasted spark, etc, etc & I'm getting confused!
Anyway, I'm assuming you positioned the engine on no 1 at TDC, marked the dist position and pulled it all apart. That's exactly what I did & I put the whole lot back together without altering the crank position. When I fired it up, I broke the cam in & then checked the timing. It was near spot on. At the time I was surprised, so here's a question: are the dist drive gears on aftermarket cams (eg Crane) machined exactly as stock? Or was I just lucky in that mine was nearly exactly right?
If it's any help I've found a pic I took of my dist with the cap off and no 1 set at TDC prior to swapping my cam. The rotor points at the vacuum takeoff on the stock manifold for the trans. I also noted the position of the dist body in relation to the engine bay (I was changing the manifold as well) & fitted it all back together with the body in it's original position with the rotor pointing where it had originally. The only surprise I had was that the cam timing marks weren't as described in the instructions (can't remember if they were both at 12, or 6 & 12, but all that's doing is swapping between TDC on the exhaust stroke or the compression stroke on no1, while no 6 is doing the opposite). I can't see it's a problem either way, as long as the dist goes in correctly. Did you check the timing marks when you took the original cam out? Same as the replacement cam?
If you've got the position of the dist noted, or remembered, from when you initially removed it then I'd set the engine with no 1 at TDC on the ex stroke (if you originally had it on the compression stroke when you pulled it apart), pull the dist out, turn the crank one full revolution & then fit the dist back in it's original position (pointing at no 6 instead of no 1 that you adjusted it to). This will give you the peace of mind that the crank, cam & dist are all in their original respective positions ie you've cancelled that one full turn you did when putting it back together. Hopefully, all you'd then need to do is set the ign timing (are you sure that the damper hasn't slipped & that the mark isn't in the wrong place because of it?).

 

Well it started. Still the timing marks are on the left side. Now with all the talk about the possibility of the damper slippage. I'm thinking it's got to be that. I've reset everything on this a half dozen times and it always goes back to the same spot. I'm thing time for a new mark or damper.

 

If your engine runs without any abnormalities then your timing is all right or at least close...

 

When is the last time you had a timing light on it? If it was somewhat recently and everything was ok, I would be concerned at this point in time that perhaps the new parts may not have been installed correctly. It may be wise to change the damper to see if that is the problem. If the timing marks come up on the wrong side, then I would take the car to a garage and have them pull off the timing cover and have them install the chain/gears properly.

 

Hi, someone once told me a quick way to check and see if the outer ring on the balancer has moved ( or slipped ) is to check and see if the keyway on the snout is lined up with approximately 0 on the outer ring. Does anyone here know if this is correct information or just urban legend kind of b.s. Thanks,,, Peace, Craig

 

That is correct.... that's where I marked my balancer (transferred the keyway slot to the outer diameter)

 

Well, my balancer keyway is about right then. I have another balancer on a 305 and it looks to be in exactly the same position as the one on the 350 in the Vette.

 

OK..It's time! And the joke is on me. After doing this for about the 6th time, I finally decided to check it all again from start to finish. Guess what I found?? How about the #1 and #3 plug wires swapped at the plug. Swapped them and guess what shows up under the timing plate now! OK..go ahead a laugh now.

Thanks for all the help folks..3 days of a case a dumb azz really wakes ya up.

 

Thats ok, **** happens.

 

good job figurring it out.....i decided right from the start to have full disclosure to you guys about my self inflicted injuries......did you read the thread from about 3 wks ago about all the screwups others have done....how about backing out of the garage with your hood up and turning it into a two piece hood?....see you don't feel so bad after all....