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Small Block build up

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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 12:54 PM
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Default Small Block build up

I replaced my 327/350 cam last year with a comp cams recommended grind CS268AH, 464 lift int/exh 108 degree lobe sep angle. Also put in matching lifters and valve springs. They told me that the car would definitely run stronger, but all I got was a broken screw in stud, and bad oil consumption(about 200miles/quart on straight 30 weight) Needless to say I was pissed. I called comp cams and they told me they had no idea why I ran into these problems except that the oil problem was most likely due to worn valve guides. (The motor has 20k on it after it was rebuilt). Never had that problem before.

Now, I decided to pull the motor out and build it up. I know I can get a different motor, but I prefer to build up this one and keep everything looking original. So that means whatever I do, it will have the cast iron intake, Q-Jet, Ram horns, fuelie heads, etc. I don't drag race the car with the exception of going to the track once in a while, so I am really not worried about grenading the original engine.

I have been doing research and I am looking to do the following:
-heads bowl blended
-compression 9.5 to 1
-Lunati 60102LK VooDoo hydraulic, power 1400-5800, 262/268 adv dur, 219/227 duration @.050", .468/.489 lift, 112° lobe sep/108° int C/L, Mid-level performance street cam with excellent drivability.
-Lunati sledgehammer 350 crank.
-ARP studs
-New bearings and rods - don't have them picked out yet.

I am hoping that the better cam and stroker crank will give me close to 280-300 hp and 330-360 tq at the rear wheels.

My question is, do you guys think I can get to these #'s with this combo? Do you have any other suggestions? I am open to ideas as I know I am not an expert at this. Thanks.
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 01:13 PM
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Darrell-
Consider a stock LT-1 C-4 will dyno 250 hp at the rear wheels ; I think you are optimistic on your 350 build up.

All my 11.1 sbc's with double humps and solid cams engine dyno at 390- 425 hp.

Hope your combo meets your expectations -
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 01:17 PM
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When you have the head work done use Teflon Positive style valve stem seals, that should help your oil consumption, the clearance on the valve guides need to be checked also.
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 01:26 PM
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I think you are a little optimistic. I think you'll be close to your desired hp & torque. If you're changing the crank, then you might as well build a 383. The only additional work involved is clearancing the block for the 3.750" stroke of the 383 versus the 3.480 stroke of the 350. You might also want to consider bumping the compression up a 1/2 a point or so. That should get you closer to your goal.
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 01:45 PM
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If you are going with a Sledgehammer crank, at least go with a 383-as mentioned. That's a pricey crank and way overkill unless you plan on doing something a little more built than you describe. That stock intake is going to kill alot of your power too. The cam looks to be a very good choice. I have used Comp Cams a couple of times, but considering all of the negative posts about them, I have pretty much sworn them off. Between wiped lobes and their lackluster "tech line", I think they are killing themselves. Sorry to get off topic. Anyway, are you going to be using headers? What kind of heads?
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 06:53 PM
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the info. I agree it would make sense to go to a 383 stroker crank. The reason I chose the sledgehammer was the durability factor and that it was made here. I do not want to put a chinese crankshaft in my #'s matching engine, possibly grenade it and then be pissed that I didn't spend a few extra $$'s on a good one. Also, I was going to use KB's for pistons, not sure of the rods. Any recommendations?
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 06:55 PM
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I will be using my fuelie heads over again. 2.02/1.60. Also, planning on using the ram horns but may use headers later.
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 07:53 PM
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I think you're on the right track for the performance levels you want. I think going 383 is a good idea. The KB pistons sound good and as far as the rods, a forged I-beam should be more than durable enough. The only things that will hold this motor back are the original heads/intake/ram's horn's. Blending the bowls on the heads will be good, but work on the intake and exhaust ports will also really help if done correctly, all depends how much you cash you want to put into them. Headers and a Performer intake will really help, especially if you are not too worried about it being perfectly stock looking. You may be able to paint the intake to match the block, and at a quick glance the motor will look pretty stock. The Voodoo cams are realitively unproven, and from what I read in a post a few days ago, they are susceptable to the same problems as the Comp Cam's XE series. I think a Crane Powermax 268 would work well for you. I personally have the Comp Cams 288 hydraulic roller in my 383. Keep the compression in the 9.0-9.5:1 area with the iron heads. Lastly, get the Qjet and distributor rebuilt/tuned properly, and you should really have a strong motor that should give you what you are looking for. Good luck with whatever you choose, I hope this helps
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Darrell's 68
I replaced my 327/350 cam last year with a comp cams recommended grind CS268AH, 464 lift int/exh 108 degree lobe sep angle. Also put in matching lifters and valve springs. They told me that the car would definitely run stronger, but all I got was a broken screw in stud, and bad oil consumption(about 200miles/quart on straight 30 weight) Needless to say I was pissed. I called comp cams and they told me they had no idea why I ran into these problems except that the oil problem was most likely due to worn valve guides. (The motor has 20k on it after it was rebuilt). Never had that problem before.

Now, I decided to pull the motor out and build it up. I know I can get a different motor, but I prefer to build up this one and keep everything looking original. So that means whatever I do, it will have the cast iron intake, Q-Jet, Ram horns, fuelie heads, etc. I don't drag race the car with the exception of going to the track once in a while, so I am really not worried about grenading the original engine.

I have been doing research and I am looking to do the following:
-heads bowl blended
-compression 9.5 to 1
-Lunati 60102LK VooDoo hydraulic, power 1400-5800, 262/268 adv dur, 219/227 duration @.050", .468/.489 lift, 112° lobe sep/108° int C/L, Mid-level performance street cam with excellent drivability.
-Lunati sledgehammer 350 crank.
-ARP studs
-New bearings and rods - don't have them picked out yet.

I am hoping that the better cam and stroker crank will give me close to 280-300 hp and 330-360 tq at the rear wheels.

My question is, do you guys think I can get to these #'s with this combo? Do you have any other suggestions? I am open to ideas as I know I am not an expert at this. Thanks.
Why not do a 383 buildup with another block? Keep the original block stored on an engine stand and go hog wild with a replacement. This is the way I am going. If the car ever has to be sold, the matching numbers stuff is there for the next owner, meanwhile, I am going to have fun with my 383!
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Darrell's 68
I replaced my 327/350 cam last year with a comp cams recommended grind CS268AH, 464 lift int/exh 108 degree lobe sep angle. Also put in matching lifters and valve springs. They told me that the car would definitely run stronger, but all I got was a broken screw in stud, and bad oil consumption(about 200miles/quart on straight 30 weight) Needless to say I was pissed. I called comp cams and they told me they had no idea why I ran into these problems except that the oil problem was most likely due to worn valve guides. (The motor has 20k on it after it was rebuilt). Never had that problem before.

Now, I decided to pull the motor out and build it up. I know I can get a different motor, but I prefer to build up this one and keep everything looking original. So that means whatever I do, it will have the cast iron intake, Q-Jet, Ram horns, fuelie heads, etc. I don't drag race the car with the exception of going to the track once in a while, so I am really not worried about grenading the original engine.

I have been doing research and I am looking to do the following:
-heads bowl blended
-compression 9.5 to 1
-Lunati 60102LK VooDoo hydraulic, power 1400-5800, 262/268 adv dur, 219/227 duration @.050", .468/.489 lift, 112° lobe sep/108° int C/L, Mid-level performance street cam with excellent drivability.
-Lunati sledgehammer 350 crank.
-ARP studs
-New bearings and rods - don't have them picked out yet.

I am hoping that the better cam and stroker crank will give me close to 280-300 hp and 330-360 tq at the rear wheels.

My question is, do you guys think I can get to these #'s with this combo? Do you have any other suggestions? I am open to ideas as I know I am not an expert at this. Thanks.
Either Super Chevy or Chevy High performance did a Rebuild/UP on a 327 about a year ago and as I recall they got about 400HP out of it. Tomarrow I'll try to did up the article date. It listed all the parts used.
Till then.
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Old Feb 13, 2005 | 07:54 AM
  #11  
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Thanks Bob, that article sounds great. I know a lot of people are telling me that I should get another block and I would if I was going crazy with a monster build up. But I want to see if the hp and tq #'s I want to get to are reasonable with the stock engine without sacrificing durability. If so, then I will build it up. If not, then I will go with another block and aftermarket heads.
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Old Feb 13, 2005 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Darrell's 68
Thanks Bob, that article sounds great. I know a lot of people are telling me that I should get another block and I would if I was going crazy with a monster build up. But I want to see if the hp and tq #'s I want to get to are reasonable with the stock engine without sacrificing durability. If so, then I will build it up. If not, then I will go with another block and aftermarket heads.
The December 2002 Chevy High Performance issue 400HP 327 Restoration page 30. The 400HP was dynoed horse power no a guesstimate. The article has a full list of what was used and done. A rollercam with roller rockers seems to be the bigest in the purchased item catagorie with some porting on the heads. If you cannot find the magazine at the library you might contact them to buy a back issue. They built this one for a Chevelle. The photo looks bone stock I am planning this for my 67 Camaro 327 2bbl. If you cannot find the article let me know.

Good Luck,
87Bob
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 07:48 PM
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Has anyone tried to bore out a 327 block to make it a 383? I thought that even doing that with a 350 block sometimes you could hit a water passage... Just thinkin out loud here...I think your outlook for 300 hp at the rear is very reasonable.. Dave..
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 11:00 PM
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Default Here's a link to the article:

Originally Posted by 87bob
The December 2002 Chevy High Performance issue 400HP 327 Restoration page 30. The 400HP was dynoed horse power no a guesstimate. The article has a full list of what was used and done. A rollercam with roller rockers seems to be the bigest in the purchased item catagorie with some porting on the heads. If you cannot find the magazine at the library you might contact them to buy a back issue. They built this one for a Chevelle. The photo looks bone stock I am planning this for my 67 Camaro 327 2bbl. If you cannot find the article let me know.

Good Luck,
87Bob
You can read the article online here. Scroll to the bottom of the page for links (sidebar articles) with cam specs, parts list, and dyno numbers.

327 buildup

Enjoy!
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