After spending yesterday wrestling with Phase II of Project RamJet, the bullheaded Bullshark is on the verge of eating crow and cutting the crossmember. I have a Mcleod scatter shield which I think is contributing to my frustration. Keisler said it should install but right now I don't see it. My question is this:

Does the flywheel need to be removed and re-installed along with the transmission, Scatter shield, pressure plate and clutch as described in the installation instructions? I know they talk about angling the engine down and installing the transmission, bellhousing and pressure plate together while rotating them just the right way to achieve insertion. (Glad sex isn't this tough...I'd still be a virgin)

Also, Do I need to remove the distributor to get the needed engine downward angle?

Any other tricks you guy's stumble on?






Bullshark

 

Hi

The way I understood this, the tranny needs to be put together with the bellhousing into position above the crossmember and as far back as possible. Only now, the clutch + pressure plate gets installed.
The flywheel should stay installed.
I can't see how tilting the engine down will help as the tranny needs to be above the crossmember.
Sad thing is, I have not installed a Keisler kit so far, but this is what the instructions read like and this is also, what I worked it out when I removed the M21 from my 68 taking into account, that the TKO is longer .

Gunther

 

With the crossmember out. The tranny should go right in. Aline and bolt in the clutch, bellhousing, tranny. When did mine it was very tight. Because I still had the crossmember in place. Then you have to follow keisler instructions to the LETTER. Other wise it won't go in. After my tranny was in. I decided to make my crossmember removable. So if I have to change the clutch it will be a lot easier. Never had to remove the distributor to aline the engine and tranny. It was within the approved range. You will LOVE your TKO went you have your baby on the road. I had to install cruise control because I wasn't used to 80 mph @ 2200 RPM. I was used to 60 MPH @ 3000 RPM....

 

Gunther, Agreed, that is the way I undertood the directions. Problem is with the Mcleod scatter shield and its larger flange, I don't see the clearance. That is why I was wondering if including the flywheel in the process would provide additional room. Manuvering that tranny with the scatter shield and pressure plate is quite a load. I was thinking that lowering the back of the engine more than it is, might provide additional clearance, but that alone doesn't look like it will be enough. To do that I will have to remove the distributor.

Brown78, Yep, that is what I was told but I am afraid with the scatter shield, I have a different challenge? Removing the crossmember is my final resort, but I think I might be there

With the RamJet 502 and all its torque, I am reluctant to go with the stock bellhousing

Bullshark

 

Quote: With the RamJet 502 and all its torque, I am reluctant to go with the stock bellhousing.
Making your crossmember removeable is not a big job. It will make your life a lot easier with the installation. Keisler was very helpful with all my questions. Call and speak to Shafi the owner. Oh by the way did I tell you I did mine on my back. I should be so lucky to have a lift like yours. LOL

 

I have the Lakewood scattershield and did not even try it without cutting the crossmember. I did not want to try and hold that lunk of steel up there while trying to align and put on the pressure plate. With the crossmember removed it was a breeze.

 

Steve, I was looking at this as an alternative. If I take the plung, it will be the first mod I will have done that will permantly alter the car. Right now I have everyting stashed to put it back to original #'s matching stock when it reaches a six figure value Wishful thinking Anyway,

As was looking at it, taking a Sawzall to it looked a little tedious. How do you cut it without hacking your fiberglass floorboards. very close quarters?

Would it be better to buy a aftermarket crossmember or retro a stock automatic crossmember.

Bullshark

 

I have done a number of these and highly recommend cutting the cross member. If you manage to get it in now what about future clutch work. The crossmember cuts out really easy and make it a bolt in deal for future maintenance??

 

Gordo, I took this quote from your 72 LT-1 web page.



I guess a good welder could always weld and grind if it is really worth putting it back someday .

Norval, Thanks, you guys have convinced me......had to try it though (bullhead)....now, how best to do it. I have already researched some of the ways, I think most of you all opted for this approach, right?



Bullshark

 

You guys seen the new trans yoke yet? Mine showed up just before C-mas. It has bolt on caps to help with installing the driveshaft. These were supposed to be out last summer but production issues slowed it release. I now have three types: the ugly 4 bolt flange from Forte's, the standard style , and now the bolted cap style.

Since my engine was out along with the Radiator, the wife, 7yr son, and I put eng and trans in as a package. Did not cut my crossmember and only had problems with the shifter assembly being a little close to the f-glass around the shifter opening during installation. The sequence of Keisler's kit needs to be followed. If later I decide a removable crossmember is best I think I would fab up a complete crossmember instead. Maybe using a later year crossmember that's been modified to fit the chassis. I've seen some of the slash-cut-reweld jobs, I won't be following that pattern.

One of the issues I had was, in Keisler's kit I think they wanted to leave the shifter assembly off untill the trans is in place. But it was difficult enough on the table to install that little pin that secures the shift ball stays in place. Then with the the (2) 8-32
screws you bolt on the small boxy shield. And then spread silicone around the edges to keep out water and debry. Did mine on the bench, not sure how you folks installed yours.

Side note, what size wheels/tires are those? I still love those Hurricanes along the side wall. As a kid those and the Hurricane II's were the wheels to have. 16"-17" in those would be coool.

Have fun with that install and keep us all posted.

Later

 

[QUOTE=Bullshark]Gordo, I took this quote from your 72 LT-1 web page.




I guess a good welder could always weld and grind if it is really worth putting it back someday .

I guess things change with time. I figure I am not going to sell it for a long time and who cares. If they don't like the cut cross member they don't buy it. I have had my transmissions out many times and the thought of going through the whole procedure was to much. It is now a breeze to pull it out. I would do it again in a minute. I'll have to change that web page.

 

Hey Steve AKA "dawelder" here again. That picture you posted of the crossmember looks just like mine. When I started to cut I found that the short sawsall blade was to short. And, the long one was to long. What I did was. Mark the blade about 1/2 inch longer than the crossmember on the sawsall back stroke and cut the end off. Mine also looked rough. When I had everything out. I cleaned up all the ends with a grinding wheel. It dosen't matter if the ends has a gap between them. Because. Before you drill any holes you must bolt the center back to the tranny. That makes sure your tail shaft is in line. As far as the numbers matching. I also have the engine, tranny, rear end gears alternator, radeator, exhurst system,and all the little things to many to mention. Just in case I want it stock again. Maybe the next guy can do it. I'm having to much fun with her. I run with C5 on the high way. You know that old saying. If you can't run with the BIG DOGS stay on the borch. Or in the drive way. What ever

 

Hi

This is getting me now. The only realy big advantage of the expensive KEISLER TKO is that the crossmember does not need to be cut out and now everybody recommends to cut it anyway ?
If you decide to cut the crossmember anyway, why pay over 1000 K extra for a unnecessary kit ?
A TKO costs less than 2000 K new ! If you cut the crossmember, you can just as well cut the fiberglass tunnel 2 1/2 inches. This is also repairable and can be returned to original with just a little glassing.

I am installing a T56 Viper 6 speed trans for less than the price of a KEISLER TKO kit because I decided to cut the crossmember first place.

Anyway, good luck. Gunther