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Was wondering what some of you more ingenious types have done as surely I'm not the only person to be in this situation.
I'm installing the new body mounts on my '79 resto project.... on mounts #2 and 3... the nuts have been removed from the cages.... I believe they are originally welded in the cage to keep them from spinning when you're tightening the bolts.
Well, the body is back on... and I don't have the nuts installed.... Obviously with the body sitting back on the frame, welding the nuts in place isn't an option at this point. What tricks have y'all used to installed new mounts/bolts/nuts and keep the nut from spinning inside the cage when you tighten down the bolts on #2 and #3?
The nuts are not standard hex nuts. They are square plates that fit inside cage. The cage stops them from spinning when you tighten them, but sloppy enough to line with the bolt. You should have got them with the body bolt kit along with shims.
How would you explain a body mount bolt spinning but not coming out?
I think it's the #2 bolt. All the others have come out except this one(and the one I wrung the head off of). I want to get the body off soon and this is all that's standing in my way.
Is there some neat way of doing it or is it just going to come down to cutting the head off and drilling it out later.
Phil... I didn't get a bolt kit... I just got a body mount kit with washers... and got grade 8 bolts from the local hardware store.
I've seen pics of the square nuts sold at some places for this application... and they appear to be just standard square nuts, which unaltered in some way wouldn't appear to work as they're small enough (short enough "diameter" for lack of a better term) to spin inside the cage. Perhaps I'm wrong....
I'd rather not order up 4 nuts online... pay some ridiculous price and then wait two weeks to get 'em. Especially if I'm not sure they'd work. Was wondering if someone had come up with an ingenius home remedy for this problem.
How would you explain a body mount bolt spinning but not coming out?
I think it's the #2 bolt. All the others have come out except this one(and the one I wrung the head off of). I want to get the body off soon and this is all that's standing in my way.
Is there some neat way of doing it or is it just going to come down to cutting the head off and drilling it out later.
Thanks
When I changes my body mounts I had one of my #3 bolts do what you are saying. It was one of the bolts in the acess hole near the rear wheel. The bolt stated to turn but then tightened as the exposed rusted portion of the bolt started back thru the nut. The cage that stops the nut from turning is not very strong and with enough torque it deformed and allowed the nut to spin. Since I was not removing the body I had to cut away a small portion of the fiberglass to have acess to the nut and cage. I cut the bolt with a sawsall and used a cold chisel and dremel to pry up one side to the cage. I made a new nut that was bigger that the origional and would not turn. I inserted to nut into the cage and bent the cage back down to the frame and rewelded it. This was not the cleanest way of doing it, but I was not prepared to remove the body at that time.
Just cut the head of the bolt, remove the body and weld on new cages with new nuts inside.
The only glimmer of genius is with the #4 mounts, where you forget
the nut cage, pull it out, and drop a bolt from the top.
I suppose you could drill through the frame to put the bolt
in from the bottom, but I wouldn't do it. Buy the nuts and
new cages if they are rusted out.
I'm not sure of the exact thread size but J bolts used for concrete anchors sometime use a square nut. Try Home Depot or building supply store. Another way is to weld a piece of flat bar to the side of a nut and slide in the cage, when you tighten it it will jam against the cage.
kens 80.... that's the alternative I'm leaning to at the moment. I'm thinking either weld/braze a piece of plate steel or something to one or both sides of a regular nut..... or cut a roughly 2"x2" piece of steel or aluminum, drill a hole in it... and JB Weld a regular nut over the hole....
kens 80.... that's the alternative I'm leaning to at the moment. I'm thinking either weld/braze a piece of plate steel or something to one or both sides of a regular nut..... or cut a roughly 2"x2" piece of steel or aluminum, drill a hole in it... and JB Weld a regular nut over the hole....
OMG .... this will be a nice addition to the "Bubba" Hall of Fame.
Simple solution .....Do it the right way! If you can get to the #2 & #3 cages to attempt one of these rig jobs why not just cut the old ones off & weld new ones on which come with nuts inside ALREADY!! Then replace ALL of the bushings (including #1 & #4) as you should anyway.
If you can get to the cage that has the spinnign nut, you can simply use some vice-grips to fix the problem. Take the vice-grips and tighten them down on the cage. This should crush the bowed out sided back strait and pinch the cage into the nut. I had to do this on #4 and it worked fine. Simple solution if you can get to the cage. I had to do this to one of the cages for the rear bumper brackets also.
Was wondering what some of you more ingenious types have done as surely I'm not the only person to be in this situation.
I'm installing the new body mounts on my '79 resto project.... on mounts #2 and 3... the nuts have been removed from the cages.... I believe they are originally welded in the cage to keep them from spinning when you're tightening the bolts.
Well, the body is back on... and I don't have the nuts installed.... Obviously with the body sitting back on the frame, welding the nuts in place isn't an option at this point. What tricks have y'all used to installed new mounts/bolts/nuts and keep the nut from spinning inside the cage when you tighten down the bolts on #2 and #3?
Cut holes in the frame under mounts #2 and $3, use longer bolts, washers and nuts. Cut the holes big enough so that you can get a socket in there to tighten the nut....
Seriously: it's easy to just lift the body, one side at a time.. 1-2 inches is enough to slide new square plates in the pockets... you'll need small hands but it can be done without lifting the body completely off the frame...
OMG .... this will be a nice addition to the "Bubba" Hall of Fame.
Simple solution .....Do it the right way! If you can get to the #2 & #3 cages to attempt one of these rig jobs why not just cut the old ones off & weld new ones on which come with nuts inside ALREADY!! Then replace ALL of the bushings (including #1 & #4) as you should anyway.
Silly rabbit, Trix are for kids ...
Thanks for the condescension.
The cages are just fine. There's not a thing wrong with them. So I'm not sure what sense it would make to torch them off and weld new ones on. That might be the non-bubba answer in your mind, but it's total overkill to me. Just because it's not exactly as it came from the factory doesn't make it "bubba". Besides, my solution 1) would be impossible to see once installed and 2) would not be a permanent modification that couldn't be changed at some point in the distant future by the next owner.
Redbad79..... Yeah, I've got it raised about 3" and you're correct... there's enough room to get my hand in there. My issue is I don't have the square plates (square nuts made for this application I assume you mean). And rather than pay $5+ each for the nuts and have to wait a couple weeks to get them, I was curious what other solutions may exist. Thanks for your suggestion though... I may not have much other choice.
Last edited by Chumpzilla; Feb 15, 2005 at 08:55 AM.
Go with the 2"x2" steel plate idea. Get some 3/8" thick stock and drill and tap a hole in the middle to match your body mount bolts. I think they are 7/16-14 threads. Leave enough clearance on the sides so that the plate "floats" just enought to allow you make minor adjustments in the body position. The size of the plate will keep it from turning in the mount just as the cage would. Voila!! Instant body mount nut!
BTW the cages are available from some of the vendors and are easy enough to mig weld into place with the correct nut. This is the way I went. You don't have to remove the entire mount. I wouldn't recommend that either cause then you'd have to figure out how to re-shim the whole body cause the mount height would change.
Sounds like you're well beyond that so I think the steel plates are the way I'd go.