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Heard some chatter under the hood. Removed a cover and found two rockers that I could slip a quarter between it and a closed valve.
I corrected and nice a quiet now.
Question:
With the allen jam nut, how did this get so loose? Do they do this sometimes?
Here is a photo. Are these stock rockers?
Is there a benefit of switching to real roller rockers without replacing the cam or lifters other than wear on valve tops? If so should the pushrods be changed as well?
Sorry for long post. Never really worked on valve assembly before and want to learn.
Yes, they do do that sometimes. Especially if you've got solid lifters. Make sure you don't overrtighten them-- take a look at the tech tips board if you want to brush up on how to adjust lash.
My most recent experience that involved a loose rocker turned out to be the result of a wiped cam lobe. Hopefully yours will not be the same.
Yes, they do do that sometimes. Especially if you've got solid lifters.
My most recent experience that involved a loose rocker turned out to be the result of a wiped cam lobe.
Doubt they are solid as I have heard stock motors have hydraulic lifters and my engine shows no signs of updates.
Is there a way to tell if solid lifters are present or if a damaged cam? Can you see down there with covers removed?
It runs really good just could not see how that could come that loose and the jam nut still good and tight.
To check the cam you'll need a dial indicator to measure the lift of the cam lobe(s). They should all be within a few thousandths of each other. If the ones that the rockers were loose on turn out to have lower lift, then the lobes are wearing faster than the others. I would definitely keep track of it. It may be wise to replace the cam/lifters and the ground off metal may cause other issues down the road.
If the lobes are the same, then it may just be a matter of loose rockers.
Couple things on those lock nuts, they are meant to be used with studs that have flat heads, stock press in studs usually do not. Also do not use the allen head screw for the final torq, I shoot for 1/2 turn lash so I adj the nut to about 3/8 turn (135 degrees), set the allen head screw then turn the nut another 1/8 turn (45 degrees) to get my 1/2 turn lash.
You can grind the studs heads flat if they are not already.
Couple things on those lock nuts, they are meant to be used with studs that have flat heads, stock press in studs usually do not. Also do not use the allen head screw for the final torq, I shoot for 1/2 turn lash so I adj the nut to about 3/8 turn (135 degrees), set the allen head screw then turn the nut another 1/8 turn (45 degrees) to get my 1/2 turn lash.
You can grind the studs heads flat if they are not already.
Although they LOOK like the stock type, the picture doesn't tell us enough... Are they stamped with any markings? They don't appear to have roller tips (BTW that would be a nice addition for you...), but they could be a different ratio or even have long slots to accomodate higher-lift cams. Either or both of those mods would make them non-stock... I don't think your allen jam nut system is stock at all...but that does not make it bad...
One more thing. Just curious?
There is a small casting on the heads that looks like a little clock with 12 dots. Is this the month code or something for casting?
It has an arrow head pointing to one of them