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Seriously considering following chamber exhaust becuase it removes those big honking trash cans from an otherwise sweet looking rear end.
(have new Holley Flowtech ceramic coated headers already)
Which require welding to attach the 3 hole flange
But I want to have the pipe connection (top picture) just before the chambers to be removable for maintenance (like working on the tranny or rear end) via using these.
I have a 71 with 2.5 and chambered coming from some shorty headers, It sounds real bad ***, but it is loud on the hwy. Rear end does look alot better. Once again they are loud and mine back fire alot, as soon I release my foot from the gas POP POP POP. But that's the idea. Drivin just on weekends for fun and romping on it every now and then by yourself no prob, but if every trip is with your sweety and you go on long trips, she will compain about the noise and you will need quite time breaks on a road trip.
I have had a Mid America system on my 73 for about four years. With headers it is a little loud. On a daily driver it might be too much, but on a "play" car it is great. In my opinion it makes a Corvette sound like the car it is. When you stand on it it is loud, but at highway speeds it is not too bad. Over the years I have had a lot of positive feedback from other car people at cruise nights and car shows. I even had a "Harley Guy" at a traffic light comment on how great it sounds.
I put mine on 2 years ago and will never give them up. For 4-speed transmission removal only need to disconnect one of the connector pipes to the headers. An h or x-pipe is always a good idea, but it should not help with a popping through exhaust. That is caused by a lean condition on decelleration. You will love the clean looking installation. And you will also probably remove the spare tire so everyone can see them!!
TJ
The 3-hole flanges are made to clamp onto the exhaust pipes. Are you running full length headers? I have the Flowtech ceramic full length headers and this chambered exhaust kit. The picture is showing the kit which hooks up to the stock exhaust manifolds. In the kit for headers they did not send the front pipe. They sent a 5 or 6 foot straight piece of pipe along. This needed to be bent and cut to make the connection from the headers to the chambered exhaust. Someone emailed me about six months ago and said that their kit had 2 pipes already bent so they may have made a change. If the kit does not have the pre-bent front pipes, I would try and get them before installing the exhaust system unless you want to drive the car to a muffler shop with open headers. The chambered pipes on my car, a 76 with an automatic, come through the transmission cross member about two or three inches. If you weld the flanges, the pipes will have to be cut if you want to remove them.
I had the MAD chambered put on my 74 coupe. The sound is awesome, but at low rpm, there is quite a bit of resonance and drone. I had a local muffler shop put an h-pipe in in right after the crossmember. The shop did not think that the h-pipe would make much difference, but to everyone's disbelief, the drone went away. It also eliminated the popping sound and tamed down the raw "brap" sound. Unfortunately I do not have pictures, but do a search for H pipe as someone posted a picture a while back on this same setup.
The 3-hole flanges are made to clamp onto the exhaust pipes. Are you running full length headers? I have the Flowtech ceramic full length headers and this chambered exhaust kit. The picture is showing the kit which hooks up to the stock exhaust manifolds. In the kit for headers they did not send the front pipe. They sent a 5 or 6 foot straight piece of pipe along. This needed to be bent and cut to make the connection from the headers to the chambered exhaust. Someone emailed me about six months ago and said that their kit had 2 pipes already bent so they may have made a change. If the kit does not have the pre-bent front pipes, I would try and get them before installing the exhaust system unless you want to drive the car to a muffler shop with open headers. The chambered pipes on my car, a 76 with an automatic, come through the transmission cross member about two or three inches. If you weld the flanges, the pipes will have to be cut if you want to remove them.
So what your saying is the header equipped kit comes with piping that is laready welded to the front of the collector that goes thru the frame cutout and ends forward of the cutout. If so I could place the pipe clamp there and forward of that the welded on collector flange which could be unbolted and dropped out of the way. I'm runnning full length headers (Holley Flowtech ceramic coated type). If I don't weld the connection to the chambers but use a clamp pictured above but do weld the collectors to the pipe can't I remove the flange and the clamp drop that down and pull the pipe forward past the headers and out of the frame cutout and off the car?
Originally Posted by Ron71
I had the MAD chambered put on my 74 coupe. The sound is awesome, but at low rpm, there is quite a bit of resonance and drone. I had a local muffler shop put an h-pipe in in right after the crossmember. The shop did not think that the h-pipe would make much difference, but to everyone's disbelief, the drone went away. It also eliminated the popping sound and tamed down the raw "brap" sound. Unfortunately I do not have pictures, but do a search for H pipe as someone posted a picture a while back on this same setup.
Wouldn't a H pipe after the chambers be even more effective at removing the drone/ popping sound then before the collectors?
Last edited by Cali,68,L-79; Feb 21, 2005 at 01:04 PM.
I ran 2.5 chambers on a 300hp 4 speed car and a 400 hp 4 speed. I thought and still think they are total crap. I know, who gives a **** what I think, it's just my opinion.
They were made by a Highly recommended supplier mentioned here for years.The fit was god awful, I think Bubbas missing-link, inbred cousin made them
I had to have a shop rebend the whole system. We added a 2" crossover right at the end of the bellhousing which solved the popping problem. With 373 gears they were just too much at 70 mph for more then 30 minutes. Around town they didn't sound bad, maybe if I didn't have to re-fit them and drop more $ into them I would have a different opinion. The guy I sold them to likes them.
The 2.5" system with performance mufflers I switched to sounds much better and doesn't choke the system. When we had to refit them we had to cut them open to fit a new bent pipe and the ID was down to 2" or even under that, I don't remember exactly. I wasn't impressed and the muffler guy thought even less of them.
Oh well you can't expect 100% positive opinions, can you You'll find a few used sets at Carlisle for about $100 if you go.
I'm runnning full length headers (Holley Flowtech ceramic coated type). If I don't weld the connection to the chambers but use a clamp pictured above but do weld the collectors to the pipe can't I remove the clamp and pull the pipe forward past the headers and out of the frame cutout and off the car?
Yes that would be more than possible. I mistated the facts. You could weld the flange to the front of the short piece of pipe going from the collectors to the chambered pipes; and a clamp to connect the rear of the short pipe to the chambered pipes.
Gary another idea was this. Buy these from Summit Racing.
Summit Smooth Tube Stainless Steel MufflersDeep rumble sound with great looks.
Manufactured in the USA by Stainless Works, these Smooth Tube mufflers have a 304 stainless steel body, core, and packing material. The bodies are 3 1/2 inches in diameter and are made from one piece of 16-gauge material-- there are no welds on the outside of the body to crack or distort, and the stainless steel will never rust. The straight-through design, combined with a perforated louvered core, delivers a deep rumble at idle and an awesome full-throttle sound.
And take them to the shop and have them custom fab the entire rest of the exhaust with H-pipe and clamps before the frame cutouts to make removal of the exhaust easy for any tranny/ rear end maintenance. Downside-twice the cost. These chambers are $129.95 a piece plus the cost of all the custom pipe/ bending etc. etc.
So what your saying is the header equipped kit comes with piping that is laready welded to the front of the collector that goes thru the frame cutout and ends forward of the cutout. If so I could place the pipe clamp there and forward of that the welded on collector flange which could be unbolted and dropped out of the way. I'm runnning full length headers (Holley Flowtech ceramic coated type). If I don't weld the connection to the chambers but use a clamp pictured above but do weld the collectors to the pipe can't I remove the flange and the clamp drop that down and pull the pipe forward past the headers and out of the frame cutout and off the car?
Wouldn't a H pipe after the chambers be even more effective at removing the drone/ popping sound then before the collectors?
I agree that the h pipe could be placed after the chambered portion. In fact, once installed on the car, the two pipes come very close to one another right by the differential.
However, an h-pipe is also supposed to help with power in the low end, and most people will tell you to place the h-pipe as far to the front of the car as possible to maximize the increase. Since space is limited though on the C-3's, so most people place them after the crossmember
If your looking into products from the stainless works, did you know they make complete systems and you can buy direct? I got a 2.5 aluminized chambered from them last year. The biggest difference in their product is four chambered pipes instead of two. It still has a has a great sound when you open it up but quieter when cruising. They are located in Chardon, Oh. Just a newbies .02
Sorry, Senior moment, they're located in Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Last edited by captn bill; Feb 22, 2005 at 09:19 PM.
Reason: Correction
Lot's of comments here about how loud they are. Believe them.
I love the sound, but I've found I don't always want it so loud. If you're an early morning cruiser, you're going to wake the hood and your family. Going golfing before 9:00am on a weekend? How about you want to just pull it out to wax it? How about 3 hours to Carlisle at 2500-3000 rpm?
If I had to do it over again, I'd go with headers to big pipes to the trash cans you mentioned getting rid of .