Got my Edelbrock heads on Friday and today I checked the valve to piston clearence using some of my kids play doh I folowed the valve adjustment instructions in my "How to Rebuild BB Chevy's" book. I wanted to run this proccess by you guys to make sure I did it right.

1. Brought #1 to TDC.
2. Both int. and exh. lifters were down in their bores as far as they would go and look to be sitting on the base circle of the cam lobe. The piston is all the way at the top of the bore.

3. I installed both pushrods in the proper locations (shrt & long).

4. Set the 2 Harland Sharp rocker arms on their respective studs and lined up the push rod in the RR cup and the roller directly over the center of the valve stem.

5. I the placed a .016 feeler guage between the roller and the valve stem. I tightened the nut down untill it took a little bit of force (Not much) to pull the feller guage out. Note- It did not take much tightening at all from intitially setting the rocker in place and getting the actuall .016 clearence. Is this normal? I was expecting to have to turn the nut a couple turns but I bet I didn't get one full.

6. I rotated the motor several times and noted that both the intake and exhaust valves operated correctly with no binding.

Was this procees for adjusting valves with a solid cam correct?


Oh yeah the valve to piston clearence was fine I was just more interested in if my proccess was right.

 

do you have long or short rocker arm studs? You need long rocker arm studs for roller rockers

 

They are the long studs for roller rockers.

W

 

I have 1.5 Harland Sharp Roller Rockers too. I think you may have installed them upside down? The flat portion of the roller "fulcrom" sp. should be on top. I accidentally installed one incorrectly and ran into the same problem, As you should be able to get a few turns on the locks.

 

You know I bet you are right. I didn't even think about that. Boy I feel dumb.

Does my process look correct?

Thanks
Wade

 

Many mechanical cams are still on the clearance ramps at TDC, so if you adjust the valves of each cylinder at TDC they may be too loose. The above applies to ALL Chevrolet mechanical lifter cams except the Duntov.

If you want to be absolutely, positively sure that the lobe is on the base circle, adjust the inlets at 90 ATC and the exhaust at 90 BTC. This way you can adjust all valves at TDC on each cylinder but the valves you adjust are the inlet valve on the prior cylinder in the firing order and the exhaust valve on the next in the firing order.

For example at TDC #1 you should adjust inlet #2 and exhaust #8. If you can't figure out the rest of the sequence, you shouldn't be working on engines.

Duke

 

For example at TDC #1 you should adjust inlet #2 and exhaust #8. If you can't figure out the rest of the sequence, you shouldn't be working on engines.


Wow, have a bad day Duke.

 

Thanks........... I think............

 

Got this link from a member at the ChevyTalk forum. Thought it was very good info and wanted to share.

http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp


Wade

 

You don't have to burn your fingers on a hot motor. The difference in lash settings is only a couple of thousants from hot to cold. So I might be out driving and decide to adjust the lash when I get home. I wait about an hour before I touch it so it's warm.

I hope that you bought Allen locking nuts for your rocker studs.