Difference between stainless and aluminized exhaust?
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,608
Likes: 3
From: Canberra AUSTRALIA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
I have a Stainless Works 2&1/2 SS full system and OEM style SS mufflers.
I bought stainless for longevity. It does change colour, it "blues" but that looks kind of neat anyway, bit like a jet engines exhaust if you know what I mean.
Welding SS is expensive, one weld cost me $30 but it was a SS weld and will last as long as the pipes.
Quality does cost more but will last a lot longer then cheaper systems.
I bought stainless for longevity. It does change colour, it "blues" but that looks kind of neat anyway, bit like a jet engines exhaust if you know what I mean.
Welding SS is expensive, one weld cost me $30 but it was a SS weld and will last as long as the pipes.
Quality does cost more but will last a lot longer then cheaper systems.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,404
Likes: 791
From: Redondo Beach, California
Originally Posted by Boofers
Most people and more importantly the ladies will be more impressed with your ride when you tell them you have a stainless exhaust. 
Yes, I agree. In a perfect world, ladies would drop trou... when you said you have stainless steel exhaust. (Assuming that the speaker was a male.)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 23,375
Likes: 1,065
From: Virginia USA
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2014
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From: Foothills of the Adirondacks.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
If you're going to buy pieces of pipe and have them welded together then use stainless and get the pieces properly welded. Welding coated steel pipe means the welded areas will easily rust since the protection coatings are destroyed in the welded area by the welding process.
Without any welding, pre-formed aluminum coated steel pipe sections which will be held together with clamps do work very well for vehicles which don't see much in the way of hash environmental conditions. Without welding, that kind of pipe would work great on most C3 Vettes.
Without any welding, pre-formed aluminum coated steel pipe sections which will be held together with clamps do work very well for vehicles which don't see much in the way of hash environmental conditions. Without welding, that kind of pipe would work great on most C3 Vettes.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 23,375
Likes: 1,065
From: Virginia USA
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,086
Likes: 786
From: Lebanon Township New Jersey
Well since the moderator hasn't closed this yet (I'm not saying he should) I'll offer some info. First, aluminized pipes are not aluminum. They are mild steel coated with aluminum, or something similar. I've had them on my car for 10 years with no rusting. This is not in daily driver use though. Second, I have heard that stainless pipes are less flexible so that clamped connections are more likely to leak. Third, its hard to believe that stainless pipes can be bought for only $50 more than aluminized.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,877
Likes: 3,556
From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
I had SS on my C2 and when the exhaust would warm up- it would rattle against the rear valence exhaust trim... had to mess with it several times to stop the rattle!!!
$50 more? I'm building mine own and it's like 50% more!!!
But it does polish up nicely...
Racer
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 490
Likes: 99
From: The South
This old (and new) thread has convinced me to spring for a new exhaust from Allen's. Since I'm in Indy, I'm going to drive it up to their shop and have it installed. Going to go with the 409 stainless and have the system welded.
Since my '72 LT-1 is about 95% stock, I'm going with an as original system as possible - I know the 409 will knock points off of any NCRS judging I may subject my car to in the future, but it seems worth it in the long run.
Since my '72 LT-1 is about 95% stock, I'm going with an as original system as possible - I know the 409 will knock points off of any NCRS judging I may subject my car to in the future, but it seems worth it in the long run.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 32
Likes: 2
From: penna
old but always relevant!! if you live in a dry, snowless + saltless area or do not drive in it aluminized steel will be ok, T409 stainless is better but will surface rust, T304 will outlast your car while looking good. had a borla system on my daily driver VW jetta 1.8T 200,000 miles + 10 years + no rust at all + pipes still pulled apart easily using band clamps, you get what you pay for hopefully!! better "stuff" is usually available for performance + collector cars luckily!!
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