Need help fitting front bumper
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,770
Likes: 3
From: St Louis MO
Need help fitting front bumper
Got my new front bumper the other day. It's an Eckler's piece I got from Corvetteworx. I held it in place last nite and, of course, it doesn't fit just right. I need advice on what to do...sand it, grind it, or let the mounting bolts pull it in. Here's a few pics I took tonite while my lovely wife held the bumper in place:
http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/...Bumper&.view=l
Would it be better to go ahead and drill the holes for the mounting bolts and tighten it down a little? That might give a better picture of how it will potentially fit. Whaddya think?
Brett
http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/...Bumper&.view=l
Would it be better to go ahead and drill the holes for the mounting bolts and tighten it down a little? That might give a better picture of how it will potentially fit. Whaddya think?
Brett
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,652
Likes: 80
From: Lakeland Florida
Hello,
From the photos it looks like it is tilted up. The center of the bumper meets the nose near the emblem, but the sides have gaps in them that are angled.
Maybe if the bolts to the bumper were installed, but loose, then the alignment comes in as each one is tightened to allow for proper positioning.
kdf
From the photos it looks like it is tilted up. The center of the bumper meets the nose near the emblem, but the sides have gaps in them that are angled.
Maybe if the bolts to the bumper were installed, but loose, then the alignment comes in as each one is tightened to allow for proper positioning.
kdf
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,770
Likes: 3
From: St Louis MO
I got 3 more pics in the folder. They're the ones with a 2 on the end. I pushed the bottom of the bumper in. It fit better on the ends but it still is jacked away from the fender.
Brett
Brett
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 4,269
Likes: 3
From: St. Charles IL
Cruise-In 5-6-7-8-9-11-12 Veteran
A CI-6 Car Show Winner
I built up the mating surface on mine until I got a real close fit. It was a matter of adding mat and resin and then grinding and fitting. For a final fit I placed mat and resin on the entire surface and clamped it up until cured. Wax paper was used against the fender and hood surround areas to prevent it from sticking. The result was a perfect fit. Here is a picture of the last step:
http://home.earthlink.net/~steverieb...s/vette37s.jpg
Edit: The bumper needs to fit without flexing. You are likely going to have problems with paint and finish if it has to be flexed a substantial amount to mount up after finishing.
http://home.earthlink.net/~steverieb...s/vette37s.jpg
Edit: The bumper needs to fit without flexing. You are likely going to have problems with paint and finish if it has to be flexed a substantial amount to mount up after finishing.
Last edited by Big Fish; Feb 22, 2005 at 09:53 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
I did my bumpers a couple of years ago. The front thankfully fit like a glove. The rear required about 1/2" of bondo to match make the bumper longer.
But, it looks to me like there is too big of a gap to try building up unless you are an expert cause you will be looking at around 1" of thin fiberglass work which will require many applications of layers of fiberglass mat...there's also the problem with the front running lights sticking way out, plus if you don't have the bumper firmly attached then it will vibrate...the fiberglass build-up could crack, etc.
It looks like you got the flexiglass bumper? If so then yes..it will pull in, and if you intend to paint it before installation then it will require the flexible additive so the paint won't crack when you snug it up.
Now the third option would be to send that one back with a note that the angle is too large, include the photos, ask for one that will better match your angle.
But, it looks to me like there is too big of a gap to try building up unless you are an expert cause you will be looking at around 1" of thin fiberglass work which will require many applications of layers of fiberglass mat...there's also the problem with the front running lights sticking way out, plus if you don't have the bumper firmly attached then it will vibrate...the fiberglass build-up could crack, etc.
It looks like you got the flexiglass bumper? If so then yes..it will pull in, and if you intend to paint it before installation then it will require the flexible additive so the paint won't crack when you snug it up.
Now the third option would be to send that one back with a note that the angle is too large, include the photos, ask for one that will better match your angle.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 4,269
Likes: 3
From: St. Charles IL
Cruise-In 5-6-7-8-9-11-12 Veteran
A CI-6 Car Show Winner
Rockn-Roll is right, it will require many layers of mat. Mine was about an inch out on the driver's side and almost as much on the passenger side. I swear I never want to do that again, had lots of hours adding mat and grinding from the inside. Most of the time you are not going to get lucky enough to find one that will bolt right up, some fitting will usually be required. You could always go with the urethane bumper cover which will conform a lot easier.
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I had to cut mine into 2 peices and then bolt it to the car and refiberglass the peices together.
In the end I bondo'd over the front edge of the fender and the bumper and while still wet used a razor blade to cut the parting line. I sanded without removing the bumper and then once again run a thin layer of bondo over the parting line and once again used the razor blade to cut the parting line.
After hardening I once again sanded the two surfaces , removed the bumper and finish sanded the parting line.
That was the only way I was getting a good seam.
In the end I bondo'd over the front edge of the fender and the bumper and while still wet used a razor blade to cut the parting line. I sanded without removing the bumper and then once again run a thin layer of bondo over the parting line and once again used the razor blade to cut the parting line.
After hardening I once again sanded the two surfaces , removed the bumper and finish sanded the parting line.
That was the only way I was getting a good seam.