My brake lights quit working
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 3
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
My brake lights quit working
This just figures. I've owned the car for 16 months and I've never had the car licensed. Best I can tell, it hasn't been licensed for 11 years. Now, on my grand checklist, I'm 6 items away from my state inspection and the effin brake lights quit working. I'm going nuts here trying to figure out where the problem is.
Here is my trouble shooting list:
1. Tail lights work.
2. Hazards work.
3. Turn signals work.
4. Tail lights/turn signals, tail lights/hazards work together.
I know both filaments in the bulbs work. I replaced the brake switch when I first got the car. Now that I have the dash reinstalled, I have a frickin wiring problem. I tried jumpering the two wires together that run to the brake switch. Shortly after hooking that back up (what a pita that was) I realized the stop light fuse was blown. I've replaced that and checked every workin combination of the tail lights. Everything works except the brake lights.
Where should I start hunting for this problem?
Here is my trouble shooting list:
1. Tail lights work.
2. Hazards work.
3. Turn signals work.
4. Tail lights/turn signals, tail lights/hazards work together.
I know both filaments in the bulbs work. I replaced the brake switch when I first got the car. Now that I have the dash reinstalled, I have a frickin wiring problem. I tried jumpering the two wires together that run to the brake switch. Shortly after hooking that back up (what a pita that was) I realized the stop light fuse was blown. I've replaced that and checked every workin combination of the tail lights. Everything works except the brake lights.
Where should I start hunting for this problem?
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
From: Lincolnton NC
I was gonna say switch till i got to the bottom of the post...
is the switch getting power? Did the fuse blow again after you replaced it? (shorted wires...)
Thses come to mind first. If the switch is getting power, then your problem is in the wires going back towards the bulbs. If not, then it could be in the fuse pannel or in the rats nest of wires under the dash...
Good luck
is the switch getting power? Did the fuse blow again after you replaced it? (shorted wires...)
Thses come to mind first. If the switch is getting power, then your problem is in the wires going back towards the bulbs. If not, then it could be in the fuse pannel or in the rats nest of wires under the dash...
Good luck
Pro
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
From: Atascadero Ca
now that the fuse is replaced take the wires off the switch again, make sure you have 12v going to 1 of them, jump the 2 together, if the lights don't come on or if it blows the fuse again you've got a wiring problem between the switch and the lights. If you don't have 12v going to 1 of the wires on the switch you've got a problem in the harness up front. Make sure there is 12v going to both sides of that fuse, and then check the wiring between the fuse box and the switch. It can't be a ground if all the other functions are working, I'm thinking maybee your new switch is bad. It is adjusted properly, right?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,891
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From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
I know there is power to the switch. I blew the fuse when the orange wire touched the brake pedal arm. If I do have a problem, it lies in the switch or the white wire from the switch to the brake lights. My speedo cable runs directly under the wiring for the switch making it almost impossible to move the switch and the wiring around. After the two wires leave the switch, they head back into the under dash wiring bundle and I don't know the path or wire color from the front to the rear of the car.
I know the switch works. Or at least it did work. I also know it is adjusted properly. Why couldn't this crap happen BEFORE the dash was installed?
I know the switch works. Or at least it did work. I also know it is adjusted properly. Why couldn't this crap happen BEFORE the dash was installed?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 1
From: Ontario
According to the Haynes manual the power to the brake lights goes from the stop/hazard fuse to the brake switch to thte turn/hazard switch assembly to the bulbs. Perhaps your problem is in the turn/hazard switch assembly. As with all electrical problems if you have goes-ins but no goes-outs then you found your bad component.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
The white wire from the brake light switch goes over to the steering column. It should be the first one going into the harmonica electrical connector on the steering column. The yellow and dark green wires should be coming out of the turn signal switch, down through the harmonica connector and back to your rear stop lights.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
... and since the directionals/hazards work, it is fairly clear.
I don't have a wiring diagram here at work, but I would think ...
The white wire going from the switch to the turn signal switch
is either open (giving no connection) or shorted to ground (blowing the
fuse when trying to use brake switch). Maybe just
a dirty connector lead on the harmonica connector.
The "location" under your Malamute says it all .... Your brake pedal is jealous and on strike.
I don't have a wiring diagram here at work, but I would think ...
The white wire going from the switch to the turn signal switch
is either open (giving no connection) or shorted to ground (blowing the
fuse when trying to use brake switch). Maybe just
a dirty connector lead on the harmonica connector.
The "location" under your Malamute says it all .... Your brake pedal is jealous and on strike.
Last edited by NHvette; Feb 25, 2005 at 06:41 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
I was talking with an engineer at work and we came up with a couple ways to narrow the problem down.
1. Jumper the orange and white wires going into the brake switch. If the lights do work, the switch is the problem. If they don't work, move on down the line.
2. Find which wire out of the harmonica connector controls the brake lights. Hit it with a 12v source and see if the brake lights turn on. If they don't, the problem is between the harmonica connector and the tail lights. If they do turn on, the problem lies in the turn/hazard switch in the column. (please God don't be there, that would ruin my schedule).
*edit* Forgot to say thanks for the help. Hopefully I'll be able to play with the brake lights tonight or tomorrow.
1. Jumper the orange and white wires going into the brake switch. If the lights do work, the switch is the problem. If they don't work, move on down the line.
2. Find which wire out of the harmonica connector controls the brake lights. Hit it with a 12v source and see if the brake lights turn on. If they don't, the problem is between the harmonica connector and the tail lights. If they do turn on, the problem lies in the turn/hazard switch in the column. (please God don't be there, that would ruin my schedule).
*edit* Forgot to say thanks for the help. Hopefully I'll be able to play with the brake lights tonight or tomorrow.
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 3
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
I tested the brake light switch, not the problem.
I need to test the switch in the column but only two wires run to the rear tail lights, a green and a yellow wire. How can I test the brake lights since the hazards, turn signals, brake lights and tail lights are all powered through these two wires.
I need to test the switch in the column but only two wires run to the rear tail lights, a green and a yellow wire. How can I test the brake lights since the hazards, turn signals, brake lights and tail lights are all powered through these two wires.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
Your stop lights work all the time (regardless if the ignition is on or off). So when you step on the brakes and the brake pedal activates the brake light switch, it connects the White wire to 12 volts. It goes up the column and is always connected to Yellow (left rear) and the Dark Green (right rear) wires as long as you don't have the turn signals or the hazard warning switch activated.
So just jumper from the White wire directly to the Yellow and then to the Dark Green. Touch the brake pedal. If the rear brake lights work then the problem is most likely the turn signal switch in the column. If they still don't work, at least you have eliminated the steering column turn signal switch as the culprit.
I used an ohm meter to check the brake light switch on my brake pedal and it always said that it worked correctly. However, when it was connected to the brake lights, there was more of a draw and the switch would not pass current. So even though the brake light switch tested good, my brake light problem was corrected when I installed a new $9 switch.
BTW, if you need to replace ther turn signal switch in the steering column, I have fairly complete instructions on disassembling the T&T column to replace it.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/T&TColumnD&R102JA05.doc
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/T&TColumnD&R226NO04.doc
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/T&TDis...age126FE03.doc
So just jumper from the White wire directly to the Yellow and then to the Dark Green. Touch the brake pedal. If the rear brake lights work then the problem is most likely the turn signal switch in the column. If they still don't work, at least you have eliminated the steering column turn signal switch as the culprit.
I used an ohm meter to check the brake light switch on my brake pedal and it always said that it worked correctly. However, when it was connected to the brake lights, there was more of a draw and the switch would not pass current. So even though the brake light switch tested good, my brake light problem was corrected when I installed a new $9 switch.
BTW, if you need to replace ther turn signal switch in the steering column, I have fairly complete instructions on disassembling the T&T column to replace it.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/T&TColumnD&R102JA05.doc
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/T&TColumnD&R226NO04.doc
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/T&TDis...age126FE03.doc
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 3
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Ok, a wire jumpered from the 12v orange wire from the brake switch to the yellow and green wire that control the tail lights, turns them on.
That means the turn signal switch in the column is bad, doesn't it?
Guess I better study up on Jim's column articles.
Seriously, how hard of a task is this?
*edit* Just for verification, can someone verify that -->THIS <-- is the correct replacement part that I need?
That means the turn signal switch in the column is bad, doesn't it?
Guess I better study up on Jim's column articles.
Seriously, how hard of a task is this?
*edit* Just for verification, can someone verify that -->THIS <-- is the correct replacement part that I need?
Last edited by Ak. Mal; Feb 27, 2005 at 11:09 AM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 3
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Ok, a wire jumpered from the 12v orange wire from the brake switch to the yellow and green wire that control the tail lights, turns them on.
That means the turn signal switch in the column is bad, doesn't it?
Guess I better study up on Jim's column articles.
Seriously, how hard of a task is this?
Just for verification, can someone verify that -->THIS <-- is the correct replacement part that I need? You will need to type in your zip code (or mine, 64118) to go to the part.
That means the turn signal switch in the column is bad, doesn't it?
Guess I better study up on Jim's column articles.
Seriously, how hard of a task is this?
Just for verification, can someone verify that -->THIS <-- is the correct replacement part that I need? You will need to type in your zip code (or mine, 64118) to go to the part.
