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I didn't mean Christopher Mc Donalds setup, I meant someone who had the stock hinge mechanism with just a linear actuator in place of the stock vac servos (I think the linear actuators were spals)
TT, can't say what's around on your side of the big puddle, but I suspect your selection rivals ours, assuming some source of supply books for enginering designs.....tons of suppliers willing to make damn near anything....alls it takes is money.....snicker....THAT is the main thing with ME, money, I just don't have tons of bux to do what I would love to conceptualize about, so I stick to what I can reasonably do with junkyard/aftermarket parts and still do a decent, SAFE, quick enough performance/comfort mod....
Probably the only person in the world that would understand the WHY behind my vette is my son....
I don't understand the problem with vacuum headlight actuators. Mine have always worked perfectly...until I decided to renew them. I removed the complete headlight assemblies on my 1968 and replaced just about every thing with new parts. Talk about something that just looked beautiful. I installed it back in the car...managing to chip up the paint on the hood a little bit. Now it's out of adjustment. If the headlights are down and in alighnment, they won't go up and lock. If I get them to lock in the up position, they won't go down perfectly.
I think I spent something like $500 on rebuilding the headlight actuator assemblies. This included new vacuum actuators and also all of the other bits and pieces. And after a lot of fussing around and two weekends of time, it still doesn't work correctly. Why do people want to replace this system with electrical motors?
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Last edited by 68/70Vette; Feb 25, 2005 at 10:55 PM.
i think it took a lot of enginuity to come up with those light assemblys. with all of the springs , etc. it would be a shame to just get rid of it and put in a single electrical actuator. my 75 still has one of the original vacuum actuators. but i bet every peice of electronics has been replaced ,mabey twice.
Having worked on more than a few 63-67 headlights, I'm not sure which I prefer. Both have their faults and once you demystify the vacuum system it's not all that difficult to work on.
Good luck…
GUSTO
GUSTO is right. The C3 system was meant to be an improvement over the C2 setup.
If it fails, just push up from the bottom to open C3 headlights.
Little vac. is needed. The relays can be easily rebuilt & bypassing the vac. tank may help on some.
..... If the headlights are down and in alighnment, they won't go up and lock. If I get them to lock in the up position, they won't go down perfectly. .....
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Yea, you have to be careful when installing them .... there are multiple adjustment points ... some for up and some for down: head light cover pivot points, an adjuster screw on the linkage, actuator rod length, and I think there a couple of others I can't remember.
Mine work fine even if one raises and lowers before the other....just a C3 trait . I have replaced the actuator seals, hoses, and some of the linkage and bushings. Oh yea, and don't rely on the factory vacuum canister without testing it ... mine leaks....had to replace it with an aftermarket vacuum can (hidden between headlights behind bumber).
If you are going to replace the vacuum operated headlights, why go electric? I would like to see somebody use cables and pulleys to rig up a MANUAL system for raising the headlights!! Any takers? Maybe hook the cable up to the emergency brake handle.. the Ebrake never works for sheeat anyway!!
From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
CI-VIII Burnout Champ
St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
When I get the spare time and money I am going to junk all my vacuum headlight crap. I want to tie both headlight assemblies together with a single lever and then use an electric linear acctuator to open and close them. Should be pretty dang simple, just need to get time and money.
From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
CI-VIII Burnout Champ
St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Originally Posted by PRND21
If you are going to replace the vacuum operated headlights, why go electric? I would like to see somebody use cables and pulleys to rig up a MANUAL system for raising the headlights!! Any takers? Maybe hook the cable up to the emergency brake handle.. the Ebrake never works for sheeat anyway!!
Yeah, my ebrake and lever are the next to go. I want to redo the console to have an open area for storage and to hold at least 1 bottle of water.
I think you should spring mount the headlights so that they are normally full open. Then use a latch like those the new cars used for the gas door. Push the headlights down and they latch closed. Then when you need it, hit the button and "BROING" they pop up and open.
No ???
When I get the spare time and money I am going to junk all my vacuum headlight crap. I want to tie both headlight assemblies together with a single lever and then use an electric linear actuator to open and close them. Should be pretty dang simple, just need to get time and money.
From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
CI-VIII Burnout Champ
St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
it was someone from your side of the pond, go look through the spal pages or look for linear actuators. The actuators are not cheap though.
I talked to a Spal rep at SEMA 2004 about this. He said he also has a C3 and was going to do the same thing as I was thinking - replace the servos with small actuators. He said you could go that route or tie them both together with a single lever and use one actuator. He says 1 would be more than strong enough to raise both assemblies.
Originally Posted by Paul @ Thunder
I'd be heartbroken if both of my headlights come up at the same time. It just wouldn't be a C3 then.
Yeah, I don't know what I would do without my "speed warning". On my car the left headlight will start to open up at about 135 MPH when I have my foot to the floor. At about 140 ish it's fully open. If I lift the headlight will close again. I use this as my speed warning, one that lets me know without looking down that "you are going too damn fast".
If you are going to replace the vacuum operated headlights, why go electric? I would like to see somebody use cables and pulleys to rig up a MANUAL system for raising the headlights!! Any takers?
Currently my headlights are mechanical. If I want to put them up, I have to get out of the car and push them up manually...
From: Location: at the right hand of Satan in Hell
Originally Posted by mrvette
YES, and thanks to Chris McDonald, down the road a bit from me, I will use a linear actuator for my headlights, and maybe wiper door also, just as he did, he is using like Firebird?? actuators for his headlights, they go up and down like soldiers....I want both headlights to run off just ONE actuator motor, and my lids will only raise up about 3 inches or so, due to using late camaro headlight bulbs...sealed beam about 3x6 inches rectangle....
GENE
I would love to see pics of this low profile setup! This sounds like the way to go!