Front Suspension Rebuild Quick Question
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From: Okemos MI
Front Suspension Rebuild Quick Question
Hi Guys,
I have started my front end rebuild. I will be using the VBP Super front end rebuild kit and new 550# springs.
So far I have the springs, shocks and spindles off and i'm about to remove the upper and lower control arms (see photos)
Most everything I have read says to pull the radiator to get to the left side top control arm off.
Heres my question, Why can't I just unbolt the control arm cross shafts from the frame and take them off as an assembly and not remove the radiator?
I have started my front end rebuild. I will be using the VBP Super front end rebuild kit and new 550# springs.
So far I have the springs, shocks and spindles off and i'm about to remove the upper and lower control arms (see photos)
Most everything I have read says to pull the radiator to get to the left side top control arm off.
Heres my question, Why can't I just unbolt the control arm cross shafts from the frame and take them off as an assembly and not remove the radiator?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 844
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From: Central KY
Take a good look at the clearance behind the a-arm shafts and the radiator fan shroud. Most times there is a physical interference in getting the shafts free and up and out of there...especially if you have a big radiator (a/c cars, big blocks, etc). This assumes that your a-arm bolts are still pressed into the frame, requiring you to slide the a-arm in about an inch to get it off the bolts. My car - the bolts just slid out so the a-arms came straight up and out! So, if you can coax your bolts out, bypass radiator removal! Also, if you are missing the fan shroud, you may get lucky and be able to get the a-arms out and back in again. I would try it anyway and if the a-arms won't come, then just remove the radiator as the instructions say. By the way, easiest way to do that seems to be to get the whole assembly out at once by pulling the bolts from the sides that hold the radiator support bracket in.
Last edited by djcwardog; Feb 27, 2005 at 12:02 PM.
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From: Stockholm, Sweden
I recently did this, and was very worried about having to remove the radiator. But that was never neccesary...
I read and followed lars paper on the rebuild of the front suspension, if you haven't got it, throw me an e-mail and I can send it to you, it was a great help during the removal!
Anyway, the upper a-arms are mounted on studs mounted in the frame, these are pretty easy to get loose especially with the method described in lars paper.
So when you get them out of the way, there's absolutely no problem getting the a-arms out. I would recommend doing this before removing the radiator.
I read and followed lars paper on the rebuild of the front suspension, if you haven't got it, throw me an e-mail and I can send it to you, it was a great help during the removal!
Anyway, the upper a-arms are mounted on studs mounted in the frame, these are pretty easy to get loose especially with the method described in lars paper.
So when you get them out of the way, there's absolutely no problem getting the a-arms out. I would recommend doing this before removing the radiator.
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From: Okemos MI
Originally Posted by Larsson
I recently did this, and was very worried about having to remove the radiator. But that was never neccesary...
I read and followed lars paper on the rebuild of the front suspension, if you haven't got it, throw me an e-mail and I can send it to you, it was a great help during the removal!
Anyway, the upper a-arms are mounted on studs mounted in the frame, these are pretty easy to get loose especially with the method described in lars paper.
So when you get them out of the way, there's absolutely no problem getting the a-arms out. I would recommend doing this before removing the radiator.
I read and followed lars paper on the rebuild of the front suspension, if you haven't got it, throw me an e-mail and I can send it to you, it was a great help during the removal!
Anyway, the upper a-arms are mounted on studs mounted in the frame, these are pretty easy to get loose especially with the method described in lars paper.
So when you get them out of the way, there's absolutely no problem getting the a-arms out. I would recommend doing this before removing the radiator.
Can you tell me here what the method is??
Anyway, the upper a-arms are mounted on studs mounted in the frame, these are pretty easy to get loose especially with the method described in lars paper.
Thank You
John
Last edited by Lotus76; Feb 27, 2005 at 01:22 PM.
Instructor
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From: Stockholm, Sweden
I have mailed you the paper now. But in case someone more want to know, I hope lars allows me to copy that method in here.
So from Lars paper on "How to rebuild your front suspension":
The driver’s side upper a-arm can easily be removed by wiggling it off the studs and pulling it out. The passenger side does not have adequate space to slip it off the studs, so the pressed studs must be removed. This can be done in several ways: Many of these studs are pressed loosely enough that you can wiggle the a-arm back and forth to make the studs wiggle. By having a helper pry against the studs while they’re wiggled, they will pop out. You can also use a C-Clamp against the protruding threaded end of the stud while placing a large socket over the head of the stud. You have to have just the right sized C-clamp to do this. You can then press the stud out into the socket covering the head. Finally, if the studs do not want to come out, you can put a socket onto the stud head and give it a few zaps back and forth with your ½” drive impact. This will loosen the knurled shank of the stud in the frame, and the stud can be wiggled out. If you do this, be careful about how much you hit the stud with the impact gun – you just have to BARELY give it a few whacks in each direction to get it loose. If you really pound in it you will completely turn the stud in the frame hole, and you will round off and destroy all the knurling. You will then need to buy new studs (available from any auto parts store). With the studs removed, the a-arm will come out from the wheel-well side of the car once you figure out just how to twist it to get it out of the wheel well opening (it really does come out).
So from Lars paper on "How to rebuild your front suspension":
The driver’s side upper a-arm can easily be removed by wiggling it off the studs and pulling it out. The passenger side does not have adequate space to slip it off the studs, so the pressed studs must be removed. This can be done in several ways: Many of these studs are pressed loosely enough that you can wiggle the a-arm back and forth to make the studs wiggle. By having a helper pry against the studs while they’re wiggled, they will pop out. You can also use a C-Clamp against the protruding threaded end of the stud while placing a large socket over the head of the stud. You have to have just the right sized C-clamp to do this. You can then press the stud out into the socket covering the head. Finally, if the studs do not want to come out, you can put a socket onto the stud head and give it a few zaps back and forth with your ½” drive impact. This will loosen the knurled shank of the stud in the frame, and the stud can be wiggled out. If you do this, be careful about how much you hit the stud with the impact gun – you just have to BARELY give it a few whacks in each direction to get it loose. If you really pound in it you will completely turn the stud in the frame hole, and you will round off and destroy all the knurling. You will then need to buy new studs (available from any auto parts store). With the studs removed, the a-arm will come out from the wheel-well side of the car once you figure out just how to twist it to get it out of the wheel well opening (it really does come out).
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From: Okemos MI
Thanks
Well I tried everything (some great ideas I would have never thought of) but I ended up pulling the radiator anyway 
I did use the C clamp trick after the upper arms were out for easy reassembly
Not all bad ... I will send it out to be cleaned and tested and then maybe I will change the cam
I did use the C clamp trick after the upper arms were out for easy reassembly
Not all bad ... I will send it out to be cleaned and tested and then maybe I will change the cam
