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Thinking about switching to a Solid Roller cam, any recommendations?

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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 03:01 PM
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Default Thinking about switching to a Solid Roller cam, any recommendations?

I'm currently running a CC294S (248/248 @ .050 .595/.595lift). while I like the cam, it just has too rough of an idle for city driving. While I like the shaking at a red light it can get tiresome pretty quick. I was hoping to atleast keep if not gain some power by switching to a solid roller and smoothing out the iddle.

I'll be swapping a dominator single plane and T56 w/ 4.10 gears this Summer. I want something to pull close to 7K with good midrange and topend. The bottom end will take care of itself.

Any recommendations?

Also what all will I need to swap over from Soild to rolid roller besides cam and roller lifters?

Specs:

Gen V 454 + .060
4 bolt with all ARP studs and fastners
10:5:1 forged Speed pro pistons
GM Forged I beam "dot" rods
GM Forged crank
118cc/320cfm GM rect heads 2.19/1.90 valves
GM high rise dual plane (soo to swap for Heolley Strip dominator single plane)
Demon 850DP
CC 294s solid cam
Hookers 2 1/8 side mount headers
MSD ignition w/ HEI
4spd (swapping to T56 this summer)
Griffin aluminum rad w/ electric fan
3.55 gears (swapping in 4.10's w/ T56)




Last edited by Corey_68; Feb 28, 2005 at 06:04 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 04:07 PM
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I had a similar question about a month ago Corey. I think I have the post saved at home. The search function is still fubar.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 04:15 PM
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Comp Cams makes a street roller line, very good street manners and tons of power when you put your foot into it the best of both worlds. Be prepared to keep your eye on the valve train for the first few thous miles.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Corey_68
Also what all will I need to swap over from Soild to rolid roller besides cam and roller lifters?
I don't know if there are many differences between SB/BB, but here is what I used for my SB:
valve springs/retainers/locks
cam button (initially used a nylon one, but it didn't last 6k miles. switched to roller)
pushrods (not sure these are *needed*, but my others were stock POS and probably the wrong length)

I also recommend getting lash caps if you don't already have some.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 06:32 PM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ghlight=roller
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 07:03 PM
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Appreciate it Len, we all know how well the search function works.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 11:32 PM
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Cam recommendations are tricky.'cause everyone has a different idea of streetable.

But the one thing in your combo that stands out to me is the future T-56 swap even with 4.10's. That is going to require cam that can lug down pretty well, especially with the rectangular ports on a 454 sized motor.

I can tell you that I had great success with that basic old Comp 288 street roller. You gotta pick the right one though. I used the 244/244@.050 with .623/.623 on a 110 LSA. It was in my pump gas 427 and ran 11.20s@123 all day anywhere through 2.5" pipes walking it out of the hole to save axle parts. I was using ported Merlin oval ports that flowed 324 cfm@.600, 3.36's a Doug Nash 5 speed. Basically a 4.13 final drive in 4th. Now the Merlins had a great I/E ratio (77%) so it did well with a single pattern cam. It held 14"+ of vacuum, would lug down to 1200 rpm in 5th gear without bucking even with a Team G single plane and a 1050 Dominator. It peaked at 5850 RPM on the dyno, but only dropped 6 HP at 7000 rpm! Thats a killer rpm range for a street motor. It never cared when you shifted..you could short shift it or wind it out over 7000 rpm....worked either way.

Obviously there are cams that make more power, so you can use this as guideline. It's reliable and I never had any issues with it.


JIM
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 02:05 AM
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I wish i knew what cam i have so badly. Its a comp solid roller, thats all i know. Mechanical super roller lifters, pro magnum roller rockers. Absolutely love that sound, and once you've adjusted em once you can do it in under an hour with polylocks so maintainance isn't a huge deal. I have a dyno appointment next tuesday, maybee I'll learn a little more about my mystery cam. I do love the cam, excellent street manners. If i'm at very low speed in traffic its a bit of a bear because i let the clutch out in first and it lugs big time, once you get on the gas a little bit (above 2000) that thing just screams. My courage gives up way before the motor does.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 09:21 AM
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Thanks guys, Harold at Ultradyne suggested this cam.

If you're interested in a small roller, you may consider the Lunati 502A3LUN. It has 276/284 at .020, 245/253 at .050, 162/170 at .200, .660/.660 gross valve lift, and 112 LSA. It is capable of being driven every day, and will make 150+ mile drives, each way.
Comparing it to your CC CB294S, at .200 the CC is only about 154-155. Our cam is 7-8° bigger on the intake, 15-16° bigger on exhaust, and shorter on the seat. It will have more power across the RPM-band, and a lot better idle and vacuum. You will need cam, lifters, and springs. If you want to keep your 3/8" pushrods, a horizontal-bar lifter works just fine, and we've had good street life with them.
I'd just like to repeat, the 502A3 is a daily-driver, with a LOT more power and torque over the CB294S.....
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:10 AM
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Corey, I am sure the cam Harold reccomended will make a lot more power than the 294, but it will still sound like a radical cam. The roller has a lot more area under overlap than the 294. If you want to smooth out the 294 a bunch you have to go to a smaller cam and / or widen out the LSA a bunch.

That cam from Lunati is still going to Yack, Yack, Yack.

I love that sound
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 N.O.X. RATT
Corey, I am sure the cam Harold reccomended will make a lot more power than the 294, but it will still sound like a radical cam. The roller has a lot more area under overlap than the 294. If you want to smooth out the 294 a bunch you have to go to a smaller cam and / or widen out the LSA a bunch.

That cam from Lunati is still going to Yack, Yack, Yack.

I love that sound

I LOVE the sound as well (the 294 included) but at a red light this sucker shakes like crazy. It shakes so much bolts/nuts are backing off, I'm having to go around and re-tighten things periodically. Now I don't want a stock smooth idle just something that is a little soother that the 294 w/ the 110lsa.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Corey_68
I LOVE the sound as well (the 294 included) but at a red light this sucker shakes like crazy. It shakes so much bolts/nuts are backing off, I'm having to go around and re-tighten things periodically. Now I don't want a stock smooth idle just something that is a little soother that the 294 w/ the 110lsa.

My XE- 282S shakes (at lights) but haven't noticed any bolts shaking loose yet. I think the 282 is the next one down from the 294.

Last edited by Jughead; Mar 1, 2005 at 11:02 AM.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Cam recommendations are tricky.'cause everyone has a different idea of streetable.

But the one thing in your combo that stands out to me is the future T-56 swap even with 4.10's. That is going to require cam that can lug down pretty well, especially with the rectangular ports on a 454 sized motor.

I can tell you that I had great success with that basic old Comp 288 street roller. You gotta pick the right one though. I used the 244/244@.050 with .623/.623 on a 110 LSA. It was in my pump gas 427 and ran 11.20s@123 all day anywhere through 2.5" pipes walking it out of the hole to save axle parts. I was using ported Merlin oval ports that flowed 324 cfm@.600, 3.36's a Doug Nash 5 speed. Basically a 4.13 final drive in 4th. Now the Merlins had a great I/E ratio (77%) so it did well with a single pattern cam. It held 14"+ of vacuum, would lug down to 1200 rpm in 5th gear without bucking even with a Team G single plane and a 1050 Dominator. It peaked at 5850 RPM on the dyno, but only dropped 6 HP at 7000 rpm! Thats a killer rpm range for a street motor. It never cared when you shifted..you could short shift it or wind it out over 7000 rpm....worked either way.

Obviously there are cams that make more power, so you can use this as guideline. It's reliable and I never had any issues with it.


JIM


I can attest that using that cam, only time you have to shift when starting from a dead stop, the rest of the time drive it as if you have an auto...going up steet hills, I mean steep...chugging at 1000 R's in 5th (3:55 gear) is no problem....smooth, no bucking, and if I want to speed up, I just mash it and it goes like a shot out of a cannon, without downshifting....up that steep hill...though lugging up the hill in fifth at 1000 r's is not the brightest thing to do, but it illustrates the capabilities of the cam.

Should there ever be a Cam Hall of Fame, the 288 will be there....

Last edited by GDaina; Mar 1, 2005 at 11:10 AM.
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