Rust Remover 101 Research Project.
Thread Starter
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Rust Remover 101 Research Project.
Here's some before pictures. It's the new rust remover product I bought after seeing a display at the recent World of Wheels. Supposed to work much faster and not etch the metal surface like vinegar, which I found to take at least a week, full strength.
I tried to find a couple pretty rusty pieces. One is a heater hose fitting which screws into an intake. It's from the crusty old 454 donor engine. I don't know what or where the second piece came from. It was in my extra nuts & bolts can. Appears to be some type of tube.
I'll post "after" pictures in the morning and my results. It's only been about 4 hours and I can see the stuff starting to work. Should be interesting.
I tried to find a couple pretty rusty pieces. One is a heater hose fitting which screws into an intake. It's from the crusty old 454 donor engine. I don't know what or where the second piece came from. It was in my extra nuts & bolts can. Appears to be some type of tube.
I'll post "after" pictures in the morning and my results. It's only been about 4 hours and I can see the stuff starting to work. Should be interesting.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,608
Likes: 3
From: Canberra AUSTRALIA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Jughead,
Are you done yet???
I am out of popcorn and beer 
and the Carlisle show hasn't come on yet...
Look forward to seeing the results. Always great to learn about ways to protect the weak link on our cars.
Cheers,
Pete
Are you done yet???
I am out of popcorn and beer and the Carlisle show hasn't come on yet...Look forward to seeing the results. Always great to learn about ways to protect the weak link on our cars.
Cheers,
Pete
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Thread Starter
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,922
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Draw you own conclusions. Worked great on the manifold fitting but not so well on the tubing which was more pitted. Worked much faster compared to vinegar. Vinegar, a week or more, this stuff 12hours.
www.safestrustremover.com
Before
After
www.safestrustremover.com
Before
After
Thread Starter
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,922
Likes: 156
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Me too. I'm working late today and will drop the pieces back into the solution before I leave and take them out LATE tonight. I'll keep you posted.
NOTE: I am not endorsing this product, nor do I sell this product.
NOTE: I am not endorsing this product, nor do I sell this product.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 904
Likes: 0
From: Seymour Indiana
What about muriatic acid? I was told to mix some with water and use it to clean out a gas tank recently. Where I poured it into the tank and got some straight onto the rust around the opening it took it off in a minute or two. Rinsed it off and showed no damage to the metal, but I doubt you would want to leave it on there for a long time.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
With any of these products, it's best to take the part each
hour or so and scrub it with a brush (nylon, wire, whatever).
Metal Ready is great but overpriced. I now use "Must for Rust"
from Home Depot, which is a medium strength phosphoric acid.
If I want to clean small parts quickly, I put it in a bowl and
microwave it until it is very warm ... faster chemical reaction.
Re-usable, too - just let the crap settle to the bottom and
pour it off to another container.
Pretty neat show on the website above. I like how they use a pump
and sprayer head to re-circulate and clean the underside without
disassembly. Pretty cool, but it sounds like it takes a while.
hour or so and scrub it with a brush (nylon, wire, whatever).
Metal Ready is great but overpriced. I now use "Must for Rust"
from Home Depot, which is a medium strength phosphoric acid.
If I want to clean small parts quickly, I put it in a bowl and
microwave it until it is very warm ... faster chemical reaction.
Re-usable, too - just let the crap settle to the bottom and
pour it off to another container.
Pretty neat show on the website above. I like how they use a pump
and sprayer head to re-circulate and clean the underside without
disassembly. Pretty cool, but it sounds like it takes a while.
Last edited by NHvette; Mar 4, 2005 at 09:11 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 4
From: Fairview Heights Illinois, near Saint Louis MO, STL C3 Shark
Heck I never even tried vinegar before this thread. I tried it with some old rusty washers from my parts bin. Let it soak overnight, then brushed them with an old toothbrush. This is awesome! Hmmm, wonder how big of a dipping tray I would need for my frame 
Jughead, thanks for posting this, I'll keep this in mind as I tear in deeper and deeper into my 76,
Jughead, thanks for posting this, I'll keep this in mind as I tear in deeper and deeper into my 76,
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Originally Posted by ruby76
Heck I never even tried vinegar before this thread. I tried it with some old rusty washers from my parts bin. Let it soak overnight, then brushed them with an old toothbrush. This is awesome! Hmmm, wonder how big of a dipping tray I would need for my frame
Jughead, thanks for posting this, I'll keep this in mind as I tear in deeper and deeper into my 76,
Jughead, thanks for posting this, I'll keep this in mind as I tear in deeper and deeper into my 76,
dry up in a few minutes.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
Originally Posted by NHvette
With any of these products, it's best to take the part each
hour or so and scrub it with a brush (nylon, wire, whatever).
hour or so and scrub it with a brush (nylon, wire, whatever).
I have used vinegar when cleaning parts in the rear-end rebuild. For the quickest results I would try and remove some of the heavy rust, I wouldn't spend great deal of time knowing that I will let the chemical action do most of the work.. After 24 hours I would remove the item(s) and brush them. Typically 90% of the rust was off. I would soak them for another 24 hours, remove, and brush. The items seem to form a rust layer rather quickly after this. To solve this I would use POR15 Metal Ready. You could use any product similiar to this to keep them 'new' looking prior to painting.