Help with lower control arm removal
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 298
From: Midlothian VA
Help with lower control arm removal
I'm rebuilding the front suspension on my 71 BB and need some help removing the lower control arm. I've removed the passenger side tie-rod, sway bar link, spindle, spring, forward control arm retaining nuts, forward bolts, and the rear control arm retaining nut. The only thing left is the rear 13/16" bolt that drops down from the cross-member and through the rear of the control shaft but the arm will not drop free of the rear bolt. I've soaked it for two days now but it still won't budge. Is the rear control shaft hole threaded or is my control shaft simply siezed onto the bolt? I'd like to know before I go driving it out with a BFH.
Thanks
Thanks
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,922
Likes: 156
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
I had problems with that one too. I think in the manual, it should specify that bolt be removed first. 
I had one heck of a time but think I finally beat it out and had to get a new replacement bolt when I reassembled. Actually now that I think about it the drivers side gave up more of a fight than the passenger. I think that somehow that bolt gets "wedged" in there.
I had one heck of a time but think I finally beat it out and had to get a new replacement bolt when I reassembled. Actually now that I think about it the drivers side gave up more of a fight than the passenger. I think that somehow that bolt gets "wedged" in there.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,375
Likes: 788
From: Redondo Beach, California
The lower control arm is attached to the frame with a rod. The rod, as it faces the front of the car, has two attachment bolts and as it faces the firewall of the car there's one big bolt. I assume this is the bolt you're having trouble with.
It would be really great idea to get this bolt out with no damage. This grade 8 bolt cannot simply be replaced with a hardware store grade 8 bolt. The factory original bolt was actually a pin. It pinned the lower arm attachment rod to the frame crossmember attaching hole. This pin function eliminated any motion between all of the attaching surfaces. If you buy a hardware store grade 8 bolt, the threads will dig into the lower control arm rod, etc.
Anyhow this bolt, like many other suspension bolts act as pins and cannot be replaced with generic hardware grade 8 bolts.
Save that bolt!! Soak it . And then get your air powered impact wrench. If you don't have an air powered impact wrench...get one. If you work on your car, and especially if you want to work on suspension parts, you really need air tools. I don't think they are that expensive. The inexpensive Sears Air Compressor that I bought in 1980 is still working fine.
It would be really great idea to get this bolt out with no damage. This grade 8 bolt cannot simply be replaced with a hardware store grade 8 bolt. The factory original bolt was actually a pin. It pinned the lower arm attachment rod to the frame crossmember attaching hole. This pin function eliminated any motion between all of the attaching surfaces. If you buy a hardware store grade 8 bolt, the threads will dig into the lower control arm rod, etc.
Anyhow this bolt, like many other suspension bolts act as pins and cannot be replaced with generic hardware grade 8 bolts.
Save that bolt!! Soak it . And then get your air powered impact wrench. If you don't have an air powered impact wrench...get one. If you work on your car, and especially if you want to work on suspension parts, you really need air tools. I don't think they are that expensive. The inexpensive Sears Air Compressor that I bought in 1980 is still working fine.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 298
From: Midlothian VA
Thanks for all the replies. It would appear that brute force is the way to go. And I really appreciate the additional detail 68/70Vette as it makes me more comfortable attacking the bolt and I'll now put additional effort into saving it. There's no way to get a wrench on top of the bolt even with the engine jacked up and too bad there's no room in there to drive a wedge between the control rod and the frame channel so; I think at this point I'll try some heat and see if I can drive/force the bolt back using a gear puller.
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Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 361
Likes: 9
From: Dresser WI
Please don't beat it out. Soak it and soak it some more and apply some heat and then soak it some more. I was able to use a braker bar and a 3' pipe on it after doing all the above and got it loose. You will want to apply some grease on it when puting it back together. Good Luck.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 298
From: Midlothian VA
Originally Posted by johns73
Please don't beat it out. Soak it and soak it some more and apply some heat and then soak it some more. I was able to use a braker bar and a 3' pipe on it after doing all the above and got it loose. You will want to apply some grease on it when puting it back together. Good Luck.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 690
Likes: 1
From: near Memphis TN
You say the bolt drops down. As I remember isn't the bolt placed in from the bottom and the nut on top? I just did my front end but I can't remember.
Anyways I have an idea, maybe a stupid one - Since the bolt is dropped down from the bottom why don't you place a jack under it, raise the jack so that the weight of the car rests on the bolt end. Put another jack on the frame a half an inch lower or so in case the bolt gives way, and let the weight of the car dislodge the bolt.
It may not work, it may mushroom or bend the bolt and make a bad situation worse, but it's an idea.
Anyways I have an idea, maybe a stupid one - Since the bolt is dropped down from the bottom why don't you place a jack under it, raise the jack so that the weight of the car rests on the bolt end. Put another jack on the frame a half an inch lower or so in case the bolt gives way, and let the weight of the car dislodge the bolt.
It may not work, it may mushroom or bend the bolt and make a bad situation worse, but it's an idea.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 298
From: Midlothian VA
Originally Posted by SpyderD
You say the bolt drops down. As I remember isn't the bolt placed in from the bottom and the nut on top? I just did my front end but I can't remember.
Anyways I have an idea, maybe a stupid one - Since the bolt is dropped down from the bottom why don't you place a jack under it, raise the jack so that the weight of the car rests on the bolt end. Put another jack on the frame a half an inch lower or so in case the bolt gives way, and let the weight of the car dislodge the bolt.
It may not work, it may mushroom or bend the bolt and make a bad situation worse, but it's an idea.
Anyways I have an idea, maybe a stupid one - Since the bolt is dropped down from the bottom why don't you place a jack under it, raise the jack so that the weight of the car rests on the bolt end. Put another jack on the frame a half an inch lower or so in case the bolt gives way, and let the weight of the car dislodge the bolt.
It may not work, it may mushroom or bend the bolt and make a bad situation worse, but it's an idea.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: saginaw texas
this happened to me on the left side of my 75, ended up using a air hammer with a brass "set", try to save the bolt!! I ordered new bolts from Van Steel and they were threaded all the way,, NO shank 
the left side I had no problems.. hope this helps..
bushog
the left side I had no problems.. hope this helps..bushog
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
EXACTLY what happened when I helped a forum member rebuild
his front end. It was a one day job until we hit that one bolt.
We hit it with the torch, air hammer, oil, wrench ... nothing.
Try heat, but don't hammer on the bolt threads. If some good
heat and penetrating oil doesn't get it loose, then pressing it out
with a gear puller is the answer. Trouble is that the bracket is
curved, so you can't get a grip. Here is the answer:
I made a tool that is placed over the head of the bolt (on the top of the bracket).
It locates on the bracket hole and stands up over the bolt head -
letting you pull on a flat solid surface, pressing the bolt out from the bottom.
The problem we had was that the bolt rusted solid inside the bore
of the crossbar. Once it starts moving, it may get easier.
If you want to borrow the tool - send me a PM and I'll mail it out to you.
http://NHvette.com/ftp/_pictures/Cor...pra4sun_01.jpg
http://NHvette.com/ftp/_pictures/Cor...pra4sun_02.jpg
his front end. It was a one day job until we hit that one bolt.
We hit it with the torch, air hammer, oil, wrench ... nothing.
Try heat, but don't hammer on the bolt threads. If some good
heat and penetrating oil doesn't get it loose, then pressing it out
with a gear puller is the answer. Trouble is that the bracket is
curved, so you can't get a grip. Here is the answer:
I made a tool that is placed over the head of the bolt (on the top of the bracket).
It locates on the bracket hole and stands up over the bolt head -
letting you pull on a flat solid surface, pressing the bolt out from the bottom.
The problem we had was that the bolt rusted solid inside the bore
of the crossbar. Once it starts moving, it may get easier.
If you want to borrow the tool - send me a PM and I'll mail it out to you.
http://NHvette.com/ftp/_pictures/Cor...pra4sun_01.jpg
http://NHvette.com/ftp/_pictures/Cor...pra4sun_02.jpg
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 298
From: Midlothian VA
Well it's finally out!!!
Tried the heat - to no avail.
Tried to press it into a socket with a puller - no way.
Beat on it - not happening.
Then I thought some more about Johns73 and Stewart's74 advice on applying a breaker bar to the wrench. But there's no room between the bolt and the starter for a breaker bar.
Then it dawned on me that they had the right idea but had left out some tiny details. You can get a breaker bar on the wrench from the front of the engine compartment but only if you remove the fuel pump, fan, radiator shroud, radiator and jack the motor up a little.
Once I got a 18" bar on it - Success!
And yes, like the rest of you that replied, the other side put up absolutly no fight. Had it off in less than 10 minutes.
Thanks for everyone's help!
Tried the heat - to no avail.
Tried to press it into a socket with a puller - no way.
Beat on it - not happening.
Then I thought some more about Johns73 and Stewart's74 advice on applying a breaker bar to the wrench. But there's no room between the bolt and the starter for a breaker bar.
Then it dawned on me that they had the right idea but had left out some tiny details. You can get a breaker bar on the wrench from the front of the engine compartment but only if you remove the fuel pump, fan, radiator shroud, radiator and jack the motor up a little.
Once I got a 18" bar on it - Success!
And yes, like the rest of you that replied, the other side put up absolutly no fight. Had it off in less than 10 minutes.
Thanks for everyone's help!
