harminic balancer replacement
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 728
Likes: 1
From: Patchogue New York
harminic balancer replacement
I posted a thread a few days age about how the outer ring of my harminic balancer spins after the motor has been shut off.
Here's some background.
1971 350/auto, NOM. I don't have a clue how many miles are on this motor, 67,000 miles on the car could be 167,000 for all I know.
Well here's what i'm thinking.
Replace water pump, timing chain and balancer while I have it appart.
anything else, I don't want to go down the cam road as I figure I will buy a crate motor next year.
Here's some background.
1971 350/auto, NOM. I don't have a clue how many miles are on this motor, 67,000 miles on the car could be 167,000 for all I know.
Well here's what i'm thinking.
Replace water pump, timing chain and balancer while I have it appart.
anything else, I don't want to go down the cam road as I figure I will buy a crate motor next year.
Racer
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
From: Niedernhausen, Germany
Ballancer
If you want to exchange the timing chain as well, you would have to remove the oil pan, too. Quite some nasty, dirty work (especially cleaning of all surfaces before applying the new gasket). I would not go through that hazzle. Exchange the waterpump if you have experienced cooling problems - but as this is actually independent form the ballancer, it is not necessarily something to do while replacing the ballancer.
I recommend to use a repair sleeve (e.g. from FelPro) on the new ballancer - thickens up the sleeve for better sealing. Something around 5 bucks or so.
Make sure to use a ballancer puller AND mounting tool - do not drive the ballancer onto the crank with a mallet or hammer (this would damage the rear crank bearing). For removing the crank pulley bolts, an impact wrench comes in handy as you do not have to stop the crank from turning.
When you have mounted the ballancer and assured the OT marking, copy the marking onto the crank pulley - this allows to check wether the outer ring of the new balancer moves again.
Regards,
Thomas
I recommend to use a repair sleeve (e.g. from FelPro) on the new ballancer - thickens up the sleeve for better sealing. Something around 5 bucks or so.
Make sure to use a ballancer puller AND mounting tool - do not drive the ballancer onto the crank with a mallet or hammer (this would damage the rear crank bearing). For removing the crank pulley bolts, an impact wrench comes in handy as you do not have to stop the crank from turning.
When you have mounted the ballancer and assured the OT marking, copy the marking onto the crank pulley - this allows to check wether the outer ring of the new balancer moves again.
Regards,
Thomas
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 2
From: Dayton Oh
with using the installation tool. Also, find out where the original timing mark should be and verify that the mark on the new balancer is at the correct position for your motor. The position I'm refering to is the relationship between the 0* mark on the balancer in relation to the keyway slot. My 355 has a 4 bolt block out of a 85 Suburban and a new forged GM crank and the keyway slot is in a different position than the one on my stock L82 crank. Maybe our other Forum Brothers and Sister know where the correct position should be for your application. 
Last edited by marshrat99; Mar 6, 2005 at 09:25 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 15,063
Likes: 79
From: central FL, near the beach.
Originally Posted by grybdn
I posted a thread a few days age about how the outer ring of my harminic balancer spins after the motor has been shut off.
Here's some background.
1971 350/auto, NOM. I don't have a clue how many miles are on this motor, 67,000 miles on the car could be 167,000 for all I know.
Well here's what i'm thinking.
Replace water pump, timing chain and balancer while I have it appart.
anything else, I don't want to go down the cam road as I figure I will buy a crate motor next year.
Here's some background.
1971 350/auto, NOM. I don't have a clue how many miles are on this motor, 67,000 miles on the car could be 167,000 for all I know.
Well here's what i'm thinking.
Replace water pump, timing chain and balancer while I have it appart.
anything else, I don't want to go down the cam road as I figure I will buy a crate motor next year.
use a new stock balancer, just boil it in water for easy install
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,023
Likes: 2
From: TEXASTEXASTEXASTEXAS TEXASTEXASTEXASTEXAS
St. Jude Contributor
Originally Posted by Matt Gruber
good plan! just loosen the pan, leave back bolts in, take out front. use RTV where necessary.
use a new stock balancer, just boil it in water for easy install
use a new stock balancer, just boil it in water for easy install
Does it really help & do you have to try to put it on hot? And isn't it hard on the rubber ring in the balancer?Or are you joking, and like the sucker I am I fell for it?
Re putting the balancer back on--Autozone lends the tool, or its very easy to make with a length of threaded rod, some washers, and a nut. I wouldn't drop the scratch to buy one unless you plan to do a lot of 'em in the future.
JB
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 728
Likes: 1
From: Patchogue New York
thanks for the advise, I don't have cooling problems, so maybe I will just skip the timing chain and water pump. I figured just do it, but I can only imaging the headache's if the waterpump leaks after. Just unnecessary pain for me.
