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Thanks Rick, Im guessing that was done to make it easier to remove the transmission? Im wondering if there is any loss of structure with the bolt on crossmember. I have the bolt on crossmember and a manual transmission (not original to the frame) Im wondering if I should weld it on. I have the body off now and it would take me ten minutes.
Thanks Rick, Im guessing that was done to make it easier to remove the transmission? Im wondering if there is any loss of structure with the bolt on crossmember. I have the bolt on crossmember and a manual transmission (not original to the frame) Im wondering if I should weld it on. I have the body off now and it would take me ten minutes.
Most likely that's why they did that. Those TH350s are pretty beefy. I'm just speculating, but unless you are doing track driving you wouldn't notice a difference in chassis strength. If you have a welder, a better thing to do is get a copy of the racing chassis prep document (I think it's on corvettefaq.com) and weld up the seams, add gussets, etc. There are a lot of places on the frame that could use help, especially the lower A-arm mounts. There have been more than a few pics here of lower mounts that have ripped off the frame while driving - scary.
Personally, I would leave the crossmember as a bolt-in. My frame is auto with removable crossmember, and I will be using a manual trans. When you have to drop the trans in the future, you will be glad you left it bolt-in.
I don't really think welding up a bolt-in crossmember will strengthen the frame any more. I would concentrate on gusseting, and completing welds that the factory only skip welded. The factory welded the manual crossmember to save cost of fabricating the bolt-in crossmembers.
Does your frame have the Z-Bar backet welded on for the clutch, or are you using hydraulic release clutch?