? about spacers and nitrous...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2004
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? about spacers and nitrous...
I have a 1/2" 4 hole spacer under my Mighty Demon carb and am thinking of possibly adding nitrous this spring...wanna see how quick I can get kicked off the track. 
I have not heard anyone ever discuss using a spacer and the nitrous 1/2" plate together. Would the spacer mount above the nitrous plate, or would it be best to toss it and just go with the nitrous plate?
Thanks,
Jeff
I have not heard anyone ever discuss using a spacer and the nitrous 1/2" plate together. Would the spacer mount above the nitrous plate, or would it be best to toss it and just go with the nitrous plate?
Thanks,
Jeff
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I would just go with the nitrous plate. Adding the 2 together is to accomplish what?? Also hood clearance could become a problem.
If you want the nitrous to hit quick and hard keep the lines short from the solenoids to the jets.
Don't be greedy. Start small and don't exceed 100 horse.
For the buck 100 horse doesn't hurt the motor, nothing needs changeing, the bottle lasts longer and I have seen up to 2 second decrease in et with just the 100 horse.
Watch the rpm, the nitrous won't kill the motor but the rpm will. Don't run the motor higher just because it feels good. That extra rpm is what will do the motor in , not the nitrous.
I would start with jets about .054 and .055, the jets are actual sizes but only say 54 or 55 on the side.
Good luck
I have installed many kits for local kids and they always love the setup but I keep all the jets to prevent them from getting greedy.
If you want the nitrous to hit quick and hard keep the lines short from the solenoids to the jets.
Don't be greedy. Start small and don't exceed 100 horse.
For the buck 100 horse doesn't hurt the motor, nothing needs changeing, the bottle lasts longer and I have seen up to 2 second decrease in et with just the 100 horse.
Watch the rpm, the nitrous won't kill the motor but the rpm will. Don't run the motor higher just because it feels good. That extra rpm is what will do the motor in , not the nitrous.
I would start with jets about .054 and .055, the jets are actual sizes but only say 54 or 55 on the side.
Good luck
I have installed many kits for local kids and they always love the setup but I keep all the jets to prevent them from getting greedy.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
I would just go with the nitrous plate. Adding the 2 together is to accomplish what?? Also hood clearance could become a problem.
If you want the nitrous to hit quick and hard keep the lines short from the solenoids to the jets.
Don't be greedy. Start small and don't exceed 100 horse.
For the buck 100 horse doesn't hurt the motor, nothing needs changeing, the bottle lasts longer and I have seen up to 2 second decrease in et with just the 100 horse.
Watch the rpm, the nitrous won't kill the motor but the rpm will. Don't run the motor higher just because it feels good. That extra rpm is what will do the motor in , not the nitrous.
I would start with jets about .054 and .055, the jets are actual sizes but only say 54 or 55 on the side.
Good luck
I have installed many kits for local kids and they always love the setup but I keep all the jets to prevent them from getting greedy.
If you want the nitrous to hit quick and hard keep the lines short from the solenoids to the jets.
Don't be greedy. Start small and don't exceed 100 horse.
For the buck 100 horse doesn't hurt the motor, nothing needs changeing, the bottle lasts longer and I have seen up to 2 second decrease in et with just the 100 horse.
Watch the rpm, the nitrous won't kill the motor but the rpm will. Don't run the motor higher just because it feels good. That extra rpm is what will do the motor in , not the nitrous.
I would start with jets about .054 and .055, the jets are actual sizes but only say 54 or 55 on the side.
Good luck
I have installed many kits for local kids and they always love the setup but I keep all the jets to prevent them from getting greedy.
I was planning on running the NOS Power Shot system...it is factory set at 125HP, with no additional jets. Summit has it for $347.95...of course that won't include the fuel pressure switch to shut the system down if pressure drops too far. I have a new Mallory HyFire Vl ignition that includes a RPM window switch...among other features, that will be used to control the nitrous activation.
On the spacer...I thought it would keep my low end throttle response crisp when not using the nitrous...read most of the time. I have enough room for both spacers.
Thanks again,
Jeff
Last edited by 406shark; Mar 9, 2005 at 09:57 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
If you are running a standard the window switch is need but not for a automatic. As for a fuel pressure shut off switch it can't hurt but isn't needed. I felt a rev limiter was far more important to prevent over revving. The motor will hit hard with the nitrous. You usually get what you ask for with nitrous
You need an arming switch and a micro switch on the throttle for safety.
Only run nitrous with the motor wide open.
You need an arming switch and a micro switch on the throttle for safety.
Only run nitrous with the motor wide open.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2004
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
If you are running a standard the window switch is need but not for a automatic. As for a fuel pressure shut off switch it can't hurt but isn't needed. I felt a rev limiter was far more important to prevent over revving. The motor will hit hard with the nitrous. You usually get what you ask for with nitrous
You need an arming switch and a micro switch on the throttle for safety.
Only run nitrous with the motor wide open.
You need an arming switch and a micro switch on the throttle for safety.
Only run nitrous with the motor wide open.
Thanks again,
Jeff
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 6
From: FRANKLIN GA
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
If you are running a standard the window switch is need but not for a automatic. As for a fuel pressure shut off switch it can't hurt but isn't needed. I felt a rev limiter was far more important to prevent over revving. The motor will hit hard with the nitrous. You usually get what you ask for with nitrous
You need an arming switch and a micro switch on the throttle for safety.
Only run nitrous with the motor wide open.
You need an arming switch and a micro switch on the throttle for safety.
Only run nitrous with the motor wide open.
You don't want a rev limiter hitting while you are on the juice. Auto or Manual. The cylinders will load up on the off cycle and when it fires on the next cycle it can blow the head gaskets or worse.
The window switch usually cuts off the nitrous system a few hundred RPMs before the rev limiter kick in.
With my auto, I set both a little higher than my shift point. I'm running a Jacobs controller that has a window switch and a rev limiter built in.
I also run a 1" open spacer with the 1/2" nitrous plate on top of it. It helps me control wheel spin out of the hole. If you have the hood clearance I'd say at least try it to see it it helps with wheel spin.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 396
Likes: 1
From: Coventry CT
i feel the fuel pressure safety switch is more important than the rev limiter. if that motor starves for fuel while on the nos it will detonate the **** out of that motor. you will have melted plugs, pistons or worse.
i would run both though, better to be safe than sorry.
good luck, jared
i would run both though, better to be safe than sorry.
good luck, jared
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by 406shark
My concern with the 4 hole spacer is hurting the flow of nitrous. I guess my best bet is to mount the nitrous plate under the 4 hole?
Thanks for all the help.
Jeff
Thanks for all the help.
Jeff
If you are happy with the spacer why not just add the nitrous plate in place of the spacer and be happy with it.
Don't add up the spacers and the gaskets. It is a good way to warp the carburator base.
Triple gaskets are hard on the carb. The 4 corner lugs get bent down.
I never ran a window switch on the bigblock and used 350 horse nitrous on it. The mustang which is standard has a window switch but no fuel safety switch.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 6
From: FRANKLIN GA
Why do you need the 4 hole spacer at all?
A spacer is used to shift the torque higher in the rpm band. The 4 hole types help to keep a little more velocity so that the lower rpms don't take quite as much of a torque loss.
With a 406 you should have PLENTY of low end torque even with an open spacer. You could run and open spacer or none at all, but I agree with you that the 4 hole would disrupt the nitrous flow it the nitrous plate was on top. You wouldn't really want it on the bottom of the spacer either, the velocity of the air flow is greater right under the carb and it helps to mix everything up better, less chance of puddling in the bottom of the intake.
The only reason I run a spacer is to soften up the low rpm torque N/A or on the juice.
A spacer is used to shift the torque higher in the rpm band. The 4 hole types help to keep a little more velocity so that the lower rpms don't take quite as much of a torque loss.
With a 406 you should have PLENTY of low end torque even with an open spacer. You could run and open spacer or none at all, but I agree with you that the 4 hole would disrupt the nitrous flow it the nitrous plate was on top. You wouldn't really want it on the bottom of the spacer either, the velocity of the air flow is greater right under the carb and it helps to mix everything up better, less chance of puddling in the bottom of the intake.
The only reason I run a spacer is to soften up the low rpm torque N/A or on the juice.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
A spacer is only needed to tune the carburator/intake combination. A small carb has the tendency to bounce the mixture off the plenum floor causing seperation of air/gas. A big carb/slow velocity doesn't have this problem and the mixture makes the corner into the intake passages.
I have seen dyno results that lost power this a spacer.
Just slapping a spacer on and saying this is what it is going to do for me is a joke.
Only the dyno would tell if the spacer works for you.
I am obviously not a fan of just slapping a spacer on and calling it good.
I have seen dyno results that lost power this a spacer.
Just slapping a spacer on and saying this is what it is going to do for me is a joke.
Only the dyno would tell if the spacer works for you.
I am obviously not a fan of just slapping a spacer on and calling it good.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Norval - My camero buddy helped me do my valves springs last night. He informed me that he bought the NOS Cheater system. 150 - 250 hp He was laughing because I should have bought the blower to keep up.
Anyway with your experience. Were you using the spray with timing retard controls? I've heard numbers of 2 degrees retard for every 50 hp of N2O?
Anyway with your experience. Were you using the spray with timing retard controls? I've heard numbers of 2 degrees retard for every 50 hp of N2O?
Last edited by gkull; Mar 9, 2005 at 02:28 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by gkull
Norval - My camero buddy help me do my valves springs last night. He informed me that he bought the NOS Cheater system. 150 - 250 hp He was laughing because I should have bought the blower to keep up.
Anyway with your experience. Were you using the spray with timing retard controls? I've heard numbers of 2 degrees retard for every 50 hp of N2O?
Anyway with your experience. Were you using the spray with timing retard controls? I've heard numbers of 2 degrees retard for every 50 hp of N2O?
I don't run any retart at all up to 100 horse, at 150 horse pull 2 degrees out. I had a automatic 2 degree retart under nitrous.
If the guys stick to 100 horse everything can remain stock, stock plugs, fuel system, timing everything. But after 150 you need a dedicated fuel system, a retart system and colder plugs.
I find with 100 horse the bottle lasts a long time, the motor doesn't take a beating and 99% of the time you are not running on the juice so why drive around on a motor set up for the 1 % of the time on the juice.
I have seen a 16 second mustang drop to 13.9 on just the 100 horse.
Don't make the system too complicated, don't go overboard and be afraid to use it. Keep it simple and usable.
I still have a Big shot system for my big block with the jets buried in the intake, no plate. I was making custom spray bars with 64 holes long before they were offered to the public.
