Rear Rotor Removel
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Austin Texas
Rear Rotor Removel
I drilled the 5 rivets out of each rear rotor on a 75, but the rotor will not come off.
Do I need to take off the trailing arm and use a press or can I get a gear puller on the rotors? What is the best method?
I believe the brake have rusted in the pulled position. I used a dead blow hammer with no luck.
Any help is appreciated, Dave
Do I need to take off the trailing arm and use a press or can I get a gear puller on the rotors? What is the best method?
I believe the brake have rusted in the pulled position. I used a dead blow hammer with no luck.
Any help is appreciated, Dave
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,166
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa Ok
I'll assume you've adjusted the star wheel to take the pressure off the drum. The first time I had to remove mine, the left one came right off but the right was seized like yours. I used a large three jaw puller and a rubber mallet. Tighten, bang around for awhile, tighten, bang. When it comes loose, it'll come all at once so don't sit too close and put some padding down. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
From: Moon Township PA
Originally Posted by blewbyu16
I drilled the 5 rivets out of each rear rotor on a 75, but the rotor will not come off.
Do I need to take off the trailing arm and use a press or can I get a gear puller on the rotors? What is the best method?
I believe the brake have rusted in the pulled position. I used a dead blow hammer with no luck.
Any help is appreciated, Dave
Do I need to take off the trailing arm and use a press or can I get a gear puller on the rotors? What is the best method?
I believe the brake have rusted in the pulled position. I used a dead blow hammer with no luck.
Any help is appreciated, Dave
Gary
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 8,351
Likes: 75
From: Tampa Bay FL
Originally Posted by jimvette999
Should the rotor be indexed to the axle before removing? I thought GM trued them to remove excessive runout as an indexed set.
Jim
Jim
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I always mark something I take apart so it goes back together as original. When replacing you should still use a dial indicator and indicate runout and adjust with shims.
I also drill the rivit holes really large to be sure and also to take weight out. LOL
I also drill the rivit holes really large to be sure and also to take weight out. LOL
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 870
Likes: 2
From: Closter New Jersey
i feel like a bad man, i took my rotors off without marking orientation, semms like its riding okay since, but maybe im jsut waiting for disaster, gues well see when i go for my three hour drive from winter storage back to my house in a few weeks
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Originally Posted by startwith80vette
i feel like a bad man, i took my rotors off without marking orientation, semms like its riding okay since, but maybe im jsut waiting for disaster, gues well see when i go for my three hour drive from winter storage back to my house in a few weeks
Did you at least line up the parking brake adjustment hole?
Also (original post)... on removal.. you may need to punch the rivets to the inside of the rotor with a drift punch before the rotor will come off. Depends on whether you drilled them completely out or not.
Last edited by Tom454; Mar 9, 2005 at 12:11 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Austin Texas
The rotor is frozen in place and will not turn. I've rebuilt a 65's trailing arm, but this take the cake. It is frozen and I can not turn the rotor at all. I even put my weight on the rotor trying to turn it with no luck.
I was hoping someone out there would have an answer.
Dave
I was hoping someone out there would have an answer.
Dave
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by blewbyu16
The rotor is frozen in place and will not turn. I've rebuilt a 65's trailing arm, but this take the cake. It is frozen and I can not turn the rotor at all. I even put my weight on the rotor trying to turn it with no luck.
I was hoping someone out there would have an answer.
Dave
I was hoping someone out there would have an answer.
Dave
can you spray a lubricant in the adjusting hole of the rotor and also spray it inside the rotor drum by using the hole where the e-cable lever goes through?....this E brake lever had rusted on my car in one position so that may be a good place to hit with a lubricant also, use the small red tube the lubricant comes with and just go to town saturating every thing.....i would then try and work that E brake lever manually....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
When working on these in the "salt belt" I have had to use an oxy/acetylene torch to cut the adjuster through the adjustment hole, or at least heat it up red hot. This allowed the shoes to move inward and release the rotor.
Of course, applying this much heat means a total rebuild of the bearing assembly.
Sometimes it's that bad.
Of course, applying this much heat means a total rebuild of the bearing assembly.
Sometimes it's that bad.
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 70
From: Clearwater FL
Originally Posted by Tom454
Did you at least line up the parking brake adjustment hole?
Also (original post)... on removal.. you may need to punch the rivets to the inside of the rotor with a drift punch before the rotor will come off. Depends on whether you drilled them completely out or not.
Also (original post)... on removal.. you may need to punch the rivets to the inside of the rotor with a drift punch before the rotor will come off. Depends on whether you drilled them completely out or not.
with the bottom part of your post. The top part, not so much. Even if you line up the parking brake adjusment hole, the rotor can still have a high run out. It's always best to dial the the rotors in and if the holes can't match up you will need to pull rotor, make your adjustments and put the rotor back on until you get it right.
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 70
From: Clearwater FL
Originally Posted by blewbyu16
The rotor is frozen in place and will not turn. I've rebuilt a 65's trailing arm, but this take the cake. It is frozen and I can not turn the rotor at all. I even put my weight on the rotor trying to turn it with no luck.
I was hoping someone out there would have an answer.
Dave
I was hoping someone out there would have an answer.
Dave
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Originally Posted by Van Steel
If you hit the outside part of it you will mushroom the spindle and than you'll have an even harder time getting it off.
Builds character.
