recently i have heard several pops through my amp and have smelled a electrical smell in the cockpit. I also have had no power at times when I went to start car. I was able to wiggle the battery terminals and get the car started. Yesterday I went to start the car and it is DEAD!!
No clicking, nothing!!!
The clock doesn't even run.
replaced battery with a new one---putting out 12.5 volts at the terminals. Checked the ground from negative terminal to the frame and it is ok, I cleaned and reattached, so this isn't it. Still no power.any ideas where to go next??
oh yeah, I thought maybe I blew the main 30amp breaker so I replaced that and still no go..............
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Is your stereo properly grounded?

At this point it sounds like you fried something?

 

look for the fusible links on your starter they may have melted...

 

Take bobs77vet's advice first. Fusible links are the most obvious possibility.

If that's not the problem, read on...
Your battery connects directly to your the starter, and all power to the car jumps off the starter. In my case, when I had the exact symptom as yours, it turned out my starter / solenoid was shorted. Here's what a buddy and I did to troubleshoot. Disconnect the battery. You'll need an ammeter with an in-line 5 or 10 amp fuse. Disconnect the battery cable from the starter, including cable(s) from the starter to the rest of the car. Put your ammeter in line between the batter and cable, and reconnect the power from battery to starter (make sure your ignition is turned off). Don't reconnect the cable between starter and rest of car. You should read zero current drain. If so, read on...

Disconnect tha batter from your starter again. Pull all fuses from your fuse box. Reconnect power from starter to the rest of your car and from your battery to starter (cable should still be disconnected from battery since your going to be using the in-line ammeter at the battery for each step). Insert one fuse at a time and measure the current drain with your ammeter each time you add a fuse, until you find the circuit with the short. It'll at least narrow down where the problem is.

 

thanks
I am beginning to be convinced it is the fusible links.
I assume this is a corvette only type part??

 

false assumption...they are simply "thermo wires" and they melt when they get overloaded....these are available at any auto parts store...they have different size gauges....you can crimp them in place if necessary...i used the weather tight connectors and then stuck everything back inside the loom...

 

What Razorhorn said, you want to figure out why your fusebale link blew in the first place. Good idea to buy a couple fuseable links. Not trying to scare ya but get yourself a fire extinguisher for the cockpit.

Most amplifiers have thier own fuses which should go before the fuseable link. If your amps fuse is rated higher than the fuseable link put a new fuse in the amp rated lower than the link.