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Rear Spring bolts and castle nuts

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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 11:13 AM
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Default Rear Spring bolts and castle nuts

I have been trying to loosen the rear spring castle nuts from the bolts. I sprayed BP lubricant on them for three consecutive days now. Jacked the spring up to relieve the pressure to the bolt and still no can do. The castle nuts appear to be permanently bonded to the studs. Any advice is appreciated. I figure I have two choices. The first is to cut the bolt off with the reciprocating saw. Or, I can use a propane torque to heat the castle nuts to help loosen them. Help please.

Bob
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 11:24 AM
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Support the spring with a jack and mount a C-clamp to prevent the jack from slipping.
Once the load is off the bolt (spring end lifted approximately 1/2" off the lower cushion) and the nut is not turning then you'll have to either cut the bolt or the nut with a Dremel or a saw ... I'd try heat first...

good luck
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 11:30 AM
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Redbad79,

If I use heat, any concern with any gas line in the area. I checked around and did not see anything of concern since the gas tank is still above the spare tire. 82 vette
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 11:37 AM
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bob2169
I would try two hammers, hold one on the back side of the nut and hit the opesit side with the other hammer. Work your way around the nut. This has lossend many a stuck fastners for me.

Neal
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 11:38 AM
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The gas lines are on the passenger side, on top of the frame. Unless they're leaking you should be fine...

Well.... I don't think you're going to re-use these bolts and nuts anyway.... just cut them...

Replace the bolt one side at a time, do not lower the jack that holds the spring up and try to do the other side before the first bolt is replaced or back in place... there is a lot of tension on that spring.

If you're happy with the standard 6" bolt - these are available at HomeDepot or Lowe's.... 6" is their max length for Grade8 bolts....
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 12:04 PM
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10-4 guys
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