Steps to replace the rear leaf spring
Thanks for your help,
Scott
Anyhow, for loosening the rear spring, the main thought is to be very careful. Of course you remove the wheel. Then use a floor jack. positioned against the extreme end of the spring, and jack the spring up until there's no tension on the trailing arm bolt. Now you can remove the trailing arm bolt cotter pin and unscrew the castle nut. HOWEVER...there is a danger at the stage associated with unscrewing the castle nut. If somethings breaks loose with the spring, that you've just deflected with the floor jack, the spring can do a lot of damage. When I removed my castle nut, I positioned my hands and tools such that if for some reason the floor jack suddenly failed, I wouldn't be hurt by the explosive deflection. If the spring gets loose instantaneously, it would be something like an explosion. If your castle nut is pretty much "welded" to the trailing arm bolt due to corrosion, I think you should take a "C" clamp and clamp it to the spring. Next take a chain and wrap the chain around the spring and the differential crossmember. The C clamp will prevent the chain from sliding inboard. The chain will hold the spring in position while you can work getting the rusted bolt loose. However, my opinion, if the bolt/castle nut is corroded don't try too hard to unscrew it, if it's hard to get off then simply cut it off.
If you're going to do this kind of work on your car, hopefully you can get an air compressor and air tools. Air tools are really so effective with suspension work. An air powered cut off tool will cut this 9/16 inch bolt in maybe 2 minutes! I have an air impact wrench, and for working with suspension parts, this thing is just magic.
Last edited by 68/70Vette; Mar 12, 2005 at 08:43 PM.










