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A-arm suggestions...

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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 02:18 PM
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Default A-arm suggestions...

I'm currently rebuilding my A-arms.

I'm getting all new ball joints and control arm bushings.

My a-arms were pretty dirty when I pulled them off, and I ordered some POR-15, marine clean and metal ready.

I used the marine clean, and it took alot of the gunk off, but there is some thin black paint in places on the arms.

I've never used POR-15 before, and I don't have much experience with painting in general.

1. Should I just try to scrape off the old paint and then metal ready and POR the a-arms?

2. Can I just paint the metal ready over the old paint?

3. I don't have a blasting cabinet, and am in a time crunch (don't have time to go around town looking). So if I can't paint over the old paint with metal ready, is there some sandpaper or a stripper solvent I could use to get the old paint completely off?

Thanks

-Don
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 02:53 PM
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If the paint is thin in some spots I wouldnt worry about that ontoo much. POR 15 should cover it completely. Just paint over it. However be careful, because if you get POR 15 on your skin...only TIME will remove it. I painted my radiator support with it July 2003 and got some on my skin and it took a while to get it off. If you have any left over the instructions state to thoroughly seal the container and refrigerate it. The coating should last a long time. God luck.
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 06:19 PM
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I agree- POR-15 will indeed cover over some thin paint. Be absolutely SURE to wear gloves and if you are brushing it, a face shield!

Spots will come off your face in a day or two, but hands take a long time- like 4-5 days or so. I made the mistake of pulling my gloves off, and then noticing a spot I missed. Just that little time, and my hands were pretty bad.

It was hard to convince everyone that my hands were clean enough to eat with...
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 06:37 PM
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Default A-arms

Hi,
I also used POR-15 on my A-arms. If you hit any residual paint with a wire brush you should have no problem with the POR staying on. I'm very impressed with this product.
Regards,
Tom
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 06:44 PM
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I would hit it with a wirewheel on a drill, that should take it off very easily.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 03:59 PM
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Thanks guys!

BTW, do you use the metal ready pre-coat?
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 04:35 PM
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Don if you're going to use the POR15 on anything but solid surface rust,ie clean bare metal, use the Metal ready first. I use it on steering boxes,differentials, suspension parts and always use the Metal Ready first. After cleaning, keep it wet with the Metal ready for 20-30 minutes then wash it off with water and dry. It leaves aw hite film that you can then paint over with POR15 black. Wait 4-5 hours until the POR is tacky and shoot a topo coat of youe choice and then after a day clear coat it.
Gary
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 06:17 PM
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Default POR 15 Top coat

Has anyone used the Chassis Black top coat from POR15? Is it as tough as they describe?
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 06:50 PM
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Definitely try to wire brush the paint off.
POR15 over paint does not fully protect the steel.
Metal Ready is Phosporic acid. It is intended to etch
the surface of clean metal for better stick. Wash it off,
and try not to let it dry while etching. I find Naval Jelly
(another P-acid treatment) works better - since it doesn't dry up as fast.

Good luck - and break out the old clothes.

When POR gets tacky - dust it lightly with spray can. I like Krylon
semi-flat black. After curing/drying for another day, give it full topcoat.

Good Luck
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