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Easy Alternator Upgrade Question?

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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 08:34 AM
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Default Easy Alternator Upgrade Question?

I want to upgrade my stock alternator to 100 or 140 AMPS.
If I do not want to mess with changing around the stock wiring configuration can I just run a new thick charge wire to the battery and continue on using the stock wiring configurtion?
My plan is to switch to the MADD Electronics New System wiring configuration but I thought Initially I would run it like this if it is ok.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by James
I want to upgrade my stock alternator to 100 or 140 AMPS.
If I do not want to mess with changing around the stock wiring configuration can I just run a new thick charge wire to the battery and continue on using the stock wiring configurtion?
My plan is to switch to the MADD Electronics New System wiring configuration but I thought Initially I would run it like this if it is ok.
You need the "thick ... wire" to power accessories NOT to charge the battery. The existing "charge" wire is more than adequate to charge your battery. You connect electric fans, headlight relays, etc. to the "thick ... wire" via distribution points or blocks.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by James
I want to upgrade my stock alternator to 100 or 140 AMPS.
If I do not want to mess with changing around the stock wiring configuration can I just run a new thick charge wire to the battery and continue on using the stock wiring configurtion?
My plan is to switch to the MADD Electronics New System wiring configuration but I thought Initially I would run it like this if it is ok.
You are correct....the charge wire must be upgraded. With a 140amp alternator the appropriate charge wire should be approx. #4 gauge. I am currently upgrading my charging system to accommodate dual electric fans and fuel injection. MADD Electronics has some great reading on their website. I just bought a CS144 Delco alternator from these guys...www.alternatorparts.com. My 1980 Corvette had the heavy duty alternator (72amps) and the original charge wire back to the battery was approx. #10 gauge. The only problem I am having is how to protect this wire in case of a short. You can't get a fusible link big enough to protect a #4 gauge wire. You must use a large fuse. I am currently trying to decide how big a fuse to use. They are made by Littelfuse...called "MEGA" bolt on fuse.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by KENS80V
You are correct....the charge wire must be upgraded. With a 140amp alternator the appropriate charge wire should be approx. #4 gauge. I am currently upgrading my charging system to accommodate dual electric fans and fuel injection. MADD Electronics has some great reading on their website. I just bought a CS144 Delco alternator from these guys...www.alternatorparts.com. My 1980 Corvette had the heavy duty alternator (72amps) and the original charge wire back to the battery was approx. #10 gauge. The only problem I am having is how to protect this wire in case of a short. You can't get a fusible link big enough to protect a #4 gauge wire. You must use a large fuse. I am currently trying to decide how big a fuse to use. They are made by Littelfuse...called "MEGA" bolt on fuse.

Again, the MAD update (as opposed to Mothers Againsd Drunk Driving - MADD) does NOT suggest increasing the size of the CHARGE wire (10 gauge is more than adequate) - it does MOVE that wire. The 8 gauge wiring is to supply power to the accessories.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by pws69
Again, the MAD update (as opposed to Mothers Againsd Drunk Driving - MADD) does NOT suggest increasing the size of the CHARGE wire (10 gauge is more than adequate) - it does MOVE that wire. The 8 gauge wiring is to supply power to the accessories.
I suggest you do more reading. Go to www.alternatorparts.com under the frequently asked questions......go to question #2. Very informative! I have read in other publications as well that the first thing to do once you have upgraded your alternator (substantially) is to increase the charge wire or risk overheating it and causing failure.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 11:43 AM
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I must add that if you increase the size of the alternator and put no increased demands on it than the original charge wire will be adequate. Add dual electric fans, large stereo amps, fuel injection system etc, etc and watch that charge wire overheat and eventually fail. Hopefully the fusible link frying will not cause a fire and destroy the car. Any body else care to chime in?
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 11:52 AM
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Do you run the charge wire to the battery wire at the starter or back to the battery? I thought my electrical manual showed the charge wire at the starter.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by KENS80V
I suggest you do more reading.

Ditto that.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 12:37 PM
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ASSUMING that ALL the wiring is in good shape, big assumption especially with the age and corrosiion of/under these cars....you do NOT nead to change a damn thing in the stock wiring harnesses,....theoretically...unless you got something bad of course, like that classic Molex white square connector on the a/c side firewall there the starter harness plugs into the main harness...they go bad all the time, it's not even a weathertite on the cars I have seen....
so first check the battery cables....ALL of them, engine to ground under pass side engine mount, make sure everything is clean polished steel under there, corrosiion will NOT WORK...

then all the super high amp connections for fans/etc...run a ground AND positive high current lead DIRECTLY to the alt output stud and case ground...been running my stuff like that for years....

the fusible link is fine for battery charging, ....

GENE
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by KENS80V
.... You can't get a fusible link big enough to protect a #4 gauge wire. You must use a large fuse. I am currently trying to decide how big a fuse to use. They are made by Littelfuse...called "MEGA" bolt on fuse.
Go you your local big-truck dealer and get a circuit breaker. They can be bought for 100+ amp applications. Used to protect the cab accessories. They are made by Klixon, Texas Instruments, and others. Part numbers "7855-7-xxx" or "NLDA-xxx-1" where xxx=amp rating. Both of these should be available in 150 amp versions.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 01:26 PM
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Let me chime in by saying...If you are going to re-wire the car, I definitly like the MADD single point distribution setup they discribe. However, thats no small task.

Everything Gene states is right on with the following clarifications:

If you are installing aftermarket fuel injection with ECU computers, wire them up to the clean (no voltage spikes) power and ground The closer to the Positive and Negative Battery terminals the better, however the other end of the battery cables are large gauge and are just as good.

Adding an additional charge wire from the alt to the battery ( or the +12 starter cable) is a good thing, (especially if you add current draw from the battery,) if you recognize the need to fuse and the fact that now you have bypassed your amp meter and it will not read correctly ( if at all).

Bullshark
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobchad
Do you run the charge wire to the battery wire at the starter or back to the battery? I thought my electrical manual showed the charge wire at the starter.
Earlier Corvettes "charge wires" are connected to the starter (in fact most charge wires are connected this way). I'm not sure when GM started to run them all the way back to the battery...... perhaps in 1978 to 82 cars only.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 10:30 PM
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Thanks.
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