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I'm planning on installing solid spicer u-joints in my driveshaft and halfshafts. But, I have no experience in u-joint removal/installation and was wondering what the easiest way to remove and re-install would be Instructions and/or pics would be great. Thanks in advance
One quick way is to just cut the old ones out with a die grinder, installation is easy, be sure to clean surfaces before installing, and remove all burr with a rat tail file and put a small surface of greese in the yokes before you install them.
My 2. cents
Ryan the best way is to cut them out with a torch,cut out the cross center section and the caps will pop out. If you don;t have a torch then a die will work-I've done it that way or a press. You have to bolt the flange to a plate, I make up plate out of 3/4" steel. I may still have a set of joints and a new plate too if you can't find them locally.Let me know and I'll check on the pricing.
Using the Spicers is good but if the flanges are bent at all you're not going to get them in. They are a tight fit with everything straight. I tap in the clips to be sure they're in place- be careful as the clips are brittle and they will chip off and fly into your face.
When you get the yokes clear, polish then by hand with emery cloth to remove rust,paint,etc.
I just did a set of shafts for jimvette999 and his shaft yokes were in great shape and I used new flanges and the joints were still a PITA to install.I also witness mark th eclips so you can keep an eye on them, they shouldn't be moving around in the groove when the joints are installed.
Here's shot of one of those shafts with it bolted to the tool.
Good luck Ryan,
Gary
Thanks for the replies. I have a die grinder I can use to cut them out. But, I'm still a little unsure of how they go back in. Do I have to install the joint, and then put the caps and clips on from the outside? If so, then I could also remove them by removing the caps and clips if I wanted too? Like I said, I've never dealt with u-joints before so I really have no idea what I doing yet
Put clamp over U joint. Tighten, joint will slide out. Take off cap. Reverse
clamp and press the joint back through to get the other cap off. Remove
the join and put in the new joint. Reverse the process...
If you don't bolt the flange to a solid plate you'll wreck them, period. You might get by with a vise or c clamp press on the driveshaft but the 1/2 shafts are more work-trust me.
Gary
What does the solid plate do for the flanges that have the pressed in caps?
I see a plate in your picture - is this the plate you are referring to?
Is there something we can't see that is holding the flanges from bending in?
Thanks for the replies. I think I understand how to do it now.
Gary, I should be able to get by on the driveshaft, but the halfshafts will require the plate to bolt the flange to? I think I could fab up a plate to work for the flanges
And if you can't fabricate a sturdy plate, you can buy a spindle flange. I keep a used, but still functional one on my shelf just for this purpose. Do not even attempt this without firmly supporting the joint flange to both remove and install the joint.
I don't use a plate. IMO this is only necessary if pressing them in/out with substantial force.
I use a grinder to cut out the center of the joint.
They get hot enough that the caps usually tap out easily.
Once out, clean the bores with fine emery cloth or scotchbrite.
A little grease and the caps should almost slide in by hand.
A few more light taps and they are fully seated.
No BFH required - just a grinder or better - a cutting torch.
A lot of the shafts I worked on were beat on by previous genius mechanics. Look at the shafts for compression flat where they were crushed in a vise. Most of the flanges were bent.If you're using the typical auto part store replacement joint they might still fit but using the Spicers cuts down on allowable tolerences-they fit tight.
Here's the plate with a flange on it
Here's the plate I make up- 3/4" steel. When I sell them I'll grind the faces flat on a surface grinder- doesn't do much but they look nicer
I agree with Gary on this one. You must have something behind the flange to keep it from crushing. You can even use your spindle flange but you have to remember to torque the spindle nut down to 100 ft/lb when you put it back on. Another thing is that u-joint caps vary in size. You can take 10 of same brand u-joint and get different diameters on different caps.