Rear Suspension Refresh Update
Dan at Van Steel dropped me a note on Monday to advise my parts were ready for pick-up. Picked up this morning:
Rebuilt Trailing arm assemblies - new spindles (both of mine were bad), welding/repair of one t-arm (cracks), rebuild/blueprint of bearing assemblies, new parking brakes/hardware, new t-arm bushings, new dust shields, rotor run-out correction with the new rotors (previously purchased from Van Steel), french locks, epoxy paint on t-arms and spindle support.
Rebuilt Half-shafts - new u-joints and clean/epoxy paint.
Posi lube and additive
Hardware - Those bolts, washers and cotter pins that required replacement. I replaced all of the half-shaft to spindle bolts/lock nuts and the caliper mounting bolts/lock nuts (same items for both). Cotter pins: t-arm shims, t-arm castellated nut, strut support and spring end bushing bolts.
I'll be wrenching starting this evening. Hoping to have the L46 ready to test drive this Saturday...

Many thanks to Arty, Dan and the Crew at Van Steel for making this job easier. I'm a repeat customer; they've done the same quality work on my '80 L48 and I'm sure I'll be returning in the near future for more work (possibly for drive shaft u-joints, repair that large crease in my left frame rail forward of the rear whee discovered after purchase... on and on and on...).






Will post my first batch after this evening The most difficult step in installing the t-arm was figuring out how to install the front t-arm bolt. As some may know, this bolts is nearly impossible to reach. While 'fishing around' for the bolt hole in an attempt to install the bolt, the 'light of realization' went off and I headed to my fishing tackle box. I figured I'd use some nylon line to fish the bolt through the frame holes and t-arm bushing. Alas, no nylon line. But something better: Stainless steel sinker lines. Sure am glad I never parted with the tackle box after I chucked my Zebco 33.
The t-arm bolt has a hole in the end to allow for install of a cotter pin. I inserted the steel line and tied a square knot and started the bolt through the inner frame hole. Once I managed to get the t-arm situated on my 3-ton floor jack and lifted into position, I then fished the line through the inner side of the t-arm and then out the outer frame hole. Took alot more tugging and moving of the t-arm to get the bolt end to peek out of the frame and then the line gave out! Fortunately, the bolt wasn't bound up and after some coaxing and some gyrations that made me recall the 'twister' game we all played as young-uns, the bolt threads appeared. I immediately installed the castellated nut to keep it from backing out and ruining my progress. I then installed the shims. There were two fairly thick shims on the inside and a thick and very thin shim on the outer side. The inners went fine and the thich outer installed with some coaxing. The thin outer shim wouldn't install. I may give it one more try BEFORE I 'ride level' the assembly and tighten all of the fasteners.
At this time, I have all bolts attached but not torqued. Some may note the washer resting on the exhaust pipe below the inner u-joint. That was one that I had mis-placed on the removal. Taking the picture showed what happened to it. All washers are installed on the u-joint straps and I went ahead and torqued it to 15 ft lbs (at least a close approximation since I don't have a torque wrench that clears the diff/inner half-shaft area. Also lubed up the half-shaft u-joints with three quick pumps on the grease gun.
Tomorrow night, I'll be installing the left-rear t-arm assembly and half-shaft in the same manner as the right rear. If time allows, I'll also prop both t-arm assemblies into a 'riding level' position and then will apply the torque settings recommended in my Van Steel catalog.
So far so good. If the Left Rear assembly cooperates like the right rear, I should be looking at two t-arm assemblies installed and fuly torqued by Thursday night without too much worry. Then, I have only to install the brake calipers, adjust the parking brake hardware and then bleed/fill the brake system before I check everything out and begin clean-up.
Sure am glad to have the new hardware items that I purchased with the assemblies; peace of mind after I rounded most of the heads on the bolts.
Will advise once I post the pictures.
Last edited by TedH; Mar 15, 2005 at 09:27 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...er=197&cat=500
NOTE: This evening, I'll be removing the French Locks on the half shafts in favor of the lock washers.
Last edited by TedH; Mar 16, 2005 at 04:00 PM.






Looking good. Are you hoping to be back on the road this weekend. Looks like you have a great start at it already.
My plan is to test drive around the block once Friday night followed by an inspection and then short trips around the neighborhood on Saturday morning listening for any bad sounds/vibes. There is a set of Vette/Oldsmobile/pre-76 car shows this weekend here in 'Olds'mar, FL (yep, founded by Olds family). I don't expect to be a participant in the shows but will enjoy driving it when not checking out the cars.
Last edited by TedH; Mar 16, 2005 at 04:54 PM.
Installed the left-rear t-arm, half-shaft and torqued both sides after leveling on Friday afternoon.
Bled and filled the brakes this morning. Will make final parking brake adjustments on Sunday and will post pics also.
Took it for test drives today; no squeaks or rattles. Rides straight and true. Will take it in for alignment very soon.
Work remaining for this project: adjust parking brakes and alignment.
Next Projects:
- Battery cables and battery retainer bracket
- Power Steering Conversion (N40 I believe is the Option code)
- Tach needle, dash bulbs, tach cable install, quartz clock repair, radio repair and possible steering wheel replacement (with mahogany or leather 14")
Last edited by TedH; Mar 21, 2005 at 08:19 AM.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...er=197&cat=500













