clutch replacement
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland OH
clutch replacement
Hello,
The T/O bearing is gone in my 71 coupe. Needs replaced. So I may as well do the entire clutch, PP while I'm at it.
I know kits are about $160-200 but what I don't know is, can I do it myself? (should I?)
If I have someone else do it, how many hours is it listed in the book? Just trying to figure an install cost.
The T/O bearing is gone in my 71 coupe. Needs replaced. So I may as well do the entire clutch, PP while I'm at it.
I know kits are about $160-200 but what I don't know is, can I do it myself? (should I?)
If I have someone else do it, how many hours is it listed in the book? Just trying to figure an install cost.
Last edited by SR7D1; Mar 15, 2005 at 05:07 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 182
Likes: 4
I did mine when I pulled the engine to rebuild in my 68, I pulled the
engine and trans out as a unit. I know its tight if you are just pulling
the trans. If you have a GM manual from 71 it will help.
You will also want to have the flywheel resurfaced, and also replace
the pilot bushing in the back of the engine crank.
engine and trans out as a unit. I know its tight if you are just pulling
the trans. If you have a GM manual from 71 it will help.
You will also want to have the flywheel resurfaced, and also replace
the pilot bushing in the back of the engine crank.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland OH
OK, that's good to know. I got a quote last night. I do trust the shop and have used then before for things I cannot do.
He quoted me $400 labor. He said it would be about 5 hours. He quoted me $210 for a stock clutch and $400 for a centerforce.
The parts prices seem a tad high, but is it really 5 hours for labor? What clutch do you guys reccomend if I plan on a 383 down the road?
I am familar with ACT clutches, but that's about it.
Greg
He quoted me $400 labor. He said it would be about 5 hours. He quoted me $210 for a stock clutch and $400 for a centerforce.
The parts prices seem a tad high, but is it really 5 hours for labor? What clutch do you guys reccomend if I plan on a 383 down the road?
I am familar with ACT clutches, but that's about it.
Greg
Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
Replaced mine myself, though I had both my engine and tranny out.
$210 for a stock clutch is a bit high, but ya gotta remember they're marking up the parts. Whether you go stock or centerforce, you might considering buying the parts on your own and just having them do install.
Never had someone do this particular job for me, but the labor sounds reasonable considering the work.
$210 for a stock clutch is a bit high, but ya gotta remember they're marking up the parts. Whether you go stock or centerforce, you might considering buying the parts on your own and just having them do install.
Never had someone do this particular job for me, but the labor sounds reasonable considering the work.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,608
Likes: 3
From: Canberra AUSTRALIA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
A lot of shops will NOT warranty work if you provide the parts. I think the best way is to either do it yourself or let the shop do everything.
Good luck either way.
Good luck either way.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Novi MI
Clutch Replacement
I'm doing my clutch myself. I can't give an estimate for time since I've spread my work over the whole Winter. As far as a clutch, I bought OEM. I removed a Centerforce. It chattered too much and I only have a stock '79 L82. The flywheel resurface at a good machine shop cost $35, the clutch kit was $ 125.00, doing it myself, PRICELESS. Oh yes, a Kiesler 5-speed is still sitting in the box, all ready to go back in. Good luck on your decision.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland OH
Thanks everyone! I really did not want to do the clutch or motor until next winter. But I guess these things happen?
I was hoping to pull it and make it a 383 over the winter. Would be easier to do the clutch when the motor had been pulled.
Greg
I was hoping to pull it and make it a 383 over the winter. Would be easier to do the clutch when the motor had been pulled.
Greg
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 4
From: Northern NJ
St. Jude Donor '04 & '05
Originally Posted by SR7D1
Thanks everyone! I really did not want to do the clutch or motor until next winter. But I guess these things happen?
I was hoping to pull it and make it a 383 over the winter. Would be easier to do the clutch when the motor had been pulled.
Greg
I was hoping to pull it and make it a 383 over the winter. Would be easier to do the clutch when the motor had been pulled.
Greg
Good Luck!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Europe , Luxembourg
Hi
If you resurface the flywheel, I recommend ballancing it as well.
My 68 BB flywheel had no scratches, just got a pass for resurfacing due new clutch and balanced and it was out.
It cost 110 Euros ( due weak USD against Euro, this would be 145 USD )
But that is over here in Europe where all this work seems to be more expensive ?
Günther
If you resurface the flywheel, I recommend ballancing it as well.
My 68 BB flywheel had no scratches, just got a pass for resurfacing due new clutch and balanced and it was out.
It cost 110 Euros ( due weak USD against Euro, this would be 145 USD )
But that is over here in Europe where all this work seems to be more expensive ?
Günther
Racer
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
From: Niedernhausen, Germany
Clutch
I also have a LuK and it works fine.
Just make sure they will use a special CORVETTE clutch kit, as the throw-out bearing is lower in the Vette compared to other GM's. The wrong bearing will cause a mispositioned clutch linkage thus resulting in a hard clutch pedal.
For doing it yourself... if you have access to a hoist, do it. The worst part is removing the shifter (if it is attached onto a bracket mounting on the crossmember) before you can remove the tranny.
If you align the clutch, forget about the plastic centering tool that comes with the kit... it is not precise enough and you will have to press the tranny into the clutch by the bolts to the bellhousing. Rather borrow a good centering tool or use and old input shaft.
5 hours for a shop should include the resurfacing the flywheel - without that it is too much (they should do it within 3-4 hours).
Regards,
Thomas
Just make sure they will use a special CORVETTE clutch kit, as the throw-out bearing is lower in the Vette compared to other GM's. The wrong bearing will cause a mispositioned clutch linkage thus resulting in a hard clutch pedal.
For doing it yourself... if you have access to a hoist, do it. The worst part is removing the shifter (if it is attached onto a bracket mounting on the crossmember) before you can remove the tranny.
If you align the clutch, forget about the plastic centering tool that comes with the kit... it is not precise enough and you will have to press the tranny into the clutch by the bolts to the bellhousing. Rather borrow a good centering tool or use and old input shaft.
5 hours for a shop should include the resurfacing the flywheel - without that it is too much (they should do it within 3-4 hours).
Regards,
Thomas
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,156
Likes: 3,965
From: Connecticut, USA
Greg you bought the 71, I was wondering?
Now you've entered a new world so be ready for more things to need attention. If you're going to use a Centerforce you'll have to get the adjustable ball stud and get it set to the proper position. I sold mt NIB centerforce just because I didn't want this hassle. I used an 11" Hays that bolted right in no problem with the linkage setup.
Do change:
Clutch
PP
T.O bearing
Pilot bushing in the crank- don;t use a bearing use a bronze bushing and be sure it's not magnetic-NAPA has good ones
Align the clutch with the tool ann tigthen it then.
Have the flywheel resurfaced.
You're going to either have to remove the tranny (85lbs) or the engine(500 lbs). Be careful and good luck
Gary
Now you've entered a new world so be ready for more things to need attention. If you're going to use a Centerforce you'll have to get the adjustable ball stud and get it set to the proper position. I sold mt NIB centerforce just because I didn't want this hassle. I used an 11" Hays that bolted right in no problem with the linkage setup.
Do change:
Clutch
PP
T.O bearing
Pilot bushing in the crank- don;t use a bearing use a bronze bushing and be sure it's not magnetic-NAPA has good ones
Align the clutch with the tool ann tigthen it then.
Have the flywheel resurfaced.
You're going to either have to remove the tranny (85lbs) or the engine(500 lbs). Be careful and good luck
Gary
Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 631
Likes: 0
From: Northern Virginia
the easiest way to get the tranny oout is to turn it on its side and pull it back over the crossmember, then tilt it and pull it forward. you cant get the tranny out any other way(at least i couldnt). just incase you decided to do it yourslef 
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland OH
Thanks guys!
I got the car back last night. The T/O bearing does need replaced (noise) but perhaps the real culprit was the Z bar. It had come loose. Now I don't know much about Z bar, but from what I understand, it had a sigificant impact on my ability to engage 1st gear from a dead stop.
My mechanic did adjust the carberator, dwell and timing after he repaired the Z bar. He says the carb needs a few parts he was unable to find. The "bushings" at the bottom (idle stability) and something else.
It does shft MUCH better and a clutch package is in the future over the winter.
I will start another thread regarding what he reccomends replacing. The brake booster and master cylinder.
Gdaina, thanks! I will PM you soon.
I got the car back last night. The T/O bearing does need replaced (noise) but perhaps the real culprit was the Z bar. It had come loose. Now I don't know much about Z bar, but from what I understand, it had a sigificant impact on my ability to engage 1st gear from a dead stop.
My mechanic did adjust the carberator, dwell and timing after he repaired the Z bar. He says the carb needs a few parts he was unable to find. The "bushings" at the bottom (idle stability) and something else.
It does shft MUCH better and a clutch package is in the future over the winter.
I will start another thread regarding what he reccomends replacing. The brake booster and master cylinder.
Gdaina, thanks! I will PM you soon.
